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RE: Total Rebuild of a 1979 Dodge Class C
This RV had a gauge for the propane gas its like a small CB radio gauge it reads from E to F But there is no wire that I can find coming from the panel to the tank and no hook up on the tank.??? Anyone know how a gauge for the propane tank would hook up How do they hook them to a tank I think they would have to read from pressure and would have to be behind the regulator valve. Anyone know just how this works.
I think they are magnetic gauges. Behind the gauge is a float that moves whatever it is behind the gauge that makes the gauge read "E" to "F." If what you want is a remote indicator, you need to replace the gauge (just the dial) itself with one that that has a wire that is used to run to your remote indicator. I did this myself - finding the new dial was the hardest part of the whole operation.
I later broke the clips that hold the dial in place and, because finding a new dial is so hard, I finally gave up and it is duct-taped in place. It works... :)
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Westronics
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03/14/10 10:25am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How many miles per gallon do you get with Ford V 10
Generally, 7-10 MPG. Usually around 8.5 MPG or so, which includes using some fuel for the generator.
I have gotten as much as 13(+) MPG, but that was very flat, 55MPH with, I think, no wind at all. It was also 100% freeway. I filled up at a freeway entrance and again at an exit.
I have gotten as much as well over 50 MPG, but that's really cheating to consider that because that's only counting the portion of the tank used when coasting downhill on a mountain pass. :E
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Westronics
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03/10/10 08:33pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Backup Camera
Needed? No. Really nice to have? Yes.
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Westronics
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03/10/10 08:22pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Installing a door in dinette booth for easier access (ideas)
Thanks for the posts so far. I'm planning to cut into the back of the dinette so it can be reached from the entrance to the RV. I figure I'll have to make a frame to mount the door to. I like how they look on the front too. Was that factory or did you do it yourself?
I did exactly that. I have a restriction in that the seat belt supports prevent any kind of aisle access. Instead, I made a door for the rear of the forward-facing seat; the drawer is easily accessed from the house door. We can toss in shoes, etc. For the other seat, I made a drawer that is somewhat inconvenient since it opens up under the table, but it is still better than pulling up the cushion.
The door I made hinges on the bottom where there is some real support.
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Westronics
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03/08/10 05:24pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Power Twin Leveling System
Thanks. I am looking more for leveling than for stabilizing. Really don't want to spend the $3,000 or so if I can find something that will work well. Don't need automatic.
Well, the BAL QTG system should work very nicely for what you want. You could also go with scissor jacks, but the BAL QTG system pushes the lifting points further outboard giving a bit more leverage and convenience. I am using scissor jacks, and that works okay, but I'd rather have the BAL QTG system. :)
You can get the whole thing for about $650 or so. See http://www.adventurerv.net/exterior-accessories-levelers-jacks-c-21_55_61.html?page=2&sort=2a for one source.
Always use both front and back levelers to avoid twisting the frame.
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Westronics
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03/08/10 08:30am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Towing
There is no national law on secondary braking requirments. Only varying state laws. It seems in-general, a 2000 pound tow weight is the limit. For a few years, I towed a 2200 pound car without secondary braking and I've always said, "It's seems to be the limit to get by without secondary braking" from my persprctive on braking performance with my RV weighing 1500 pounds under the max GVWR of 11,500, when loaded up for trips.
The issue is really less about what the law says and more about safety. Ford makes it clear that the brakes are designed for GVWR only. I am sure Chevy is the same. This means anything over GVWR (total weight) should definitely have brakes on whatever is towed.
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Westronics
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03/07/10 06:12pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Back up / rearview camera kits
Tim at www.rvcams.com is extremely helpful, plus they have a good lineup of products.
The only real difference between "rear view" and "backup" cameras is that, typically, a "backup" camera is wired to comes on when you shift into reverse. The same camera/monitor could serve either function.
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Westronics
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03/02/10 07:18am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Hitch
I have done a tremendous of research in this area.
What I discovered is that MH manufacturers seem to know diddly about weights and towing.
This is evidenced but such nonsense as:
1. Setting the GCWR to be GVWR plus hitch receiver rating. (This is ludicrous because one could easily exceed that supposed GCWR by simply being under GVWR and then towing more than the hitch receiver rating allows).
2. Later model year MHs getting upgraded to 5,000-lb hitches with no changes in the frame at all (I personally verified this with Jayco and Mor/Ryde, their chassis modifiers).
3. Ford says there are no changes in vehicle ratings (GCWR included) if the vehicle is properly modified per QVM W-18. Ford does not even proved any mechanism for rating a chassis other than how it comes out of the factory.
The 3500-lb receivers were used, as near as I can tell, with no engineering basis whatsoever. I assume that if only a 3500-lb receiver was used that a 5,000-lb receiver was not tested, so you are pretty much on your own there.
The good news is that it is fairly easy to visually check compliance to QVM Q-18, mostly. You can't visually check weight distribution and things like that, but you can visually confirm frame modifications.
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Westronics
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02/27/10 09:29am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Remote Fob for Power Door Locks
Electric locks and remote locks are not the same thing at all and one does not imply the other was ever installed.
Certainly you should ask Ford, but if they tell you they can't help, you can install something after-market. I did.
It would probably be easier and possibly cheaper to have the door locks re-keyed.
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Westronics
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02/26/10 08:40pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Triton V-8 powered under or @ 24 foot class C's
The V10 is not a BIG block it is a variation of the Triton 5.4 V8 w/ 2 extra cylinders.
Well, what is and is not a "Big Block" is subject to interpretation of a poorly defined term, so let;s not go there. Certainly, the V-10 is the equivalent of a "Big Block" in terms of displacement and power, so, except for "muscle car" aficionados, who really cares?
Let's not get into that, though, as it is both off-topic and not in any way worthy of discussion in the "Class C" forum
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Westronics
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02/26/10 03:22pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Triton V-8 powered under or @ 24 foot class C's
You'll have trouble finding this.
Mostly you'll find either the V-10 (E-450) or the Chevy V-8 (Chevy 3500).
You might find one made on the E-350 with the 5.4L engine, and, if so, that's a fine choice. You should have no real issues with that.
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Westronics
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02/26/10 03:19pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Towing capacity of this unit?
Well, let's assume an E450 - but that's not a given, since it says "F450" and it's obvious from the photo that it cannot be an "F450."
At 25' (if that's true - you should be skeptical about everything) it will likely weigh it at around 12,000 lbs., fully loaded for a trip.
Given that the E450s of that time have a GVWR of 14,050 lbs. and a GCWR of 20,000 lbs. with a tow limit of 10,000 lbs., this vehicle should be capable of towing up to about 8,000 lbs. (GCWR - actual weight)
However, the hitch receiver will not be capable of that - it is more likely limited to 3,500 lbs. or maybe 5,000 lbs.
Furthermore, the vehicle may or may not have been properly modified per Ford's QVM Q18.
Fortunately, it is possible to confirm the capabilities of the hitch and the conformity of any frame modification visually. Once you do this, you'll know what modifications you need to make to safely tow 8,000 lbs. or so, which is certainly possible.
In any case, you cannot safely tow more than the lower of 10,000lbs. or GCWR - actual weight, so knowing the actual weight is critical in knowing how much you can tow.
All standard cautions about trailer brakes etc., etc. apply, of course. If not otherwise available, Ford can easily supply the original chassis owner's manual, either by calling them at the number below or registering at the Ford's owner's website.
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Westronics
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02/26/10 03:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Extra driving in a C-how realistic?
What's a realistic cruising speed in a C? 60 mph? 65? 55?
I also live in a pretty hilly area I'm assuming they don't "like that."
1. Whatever you want. Go slower for better fuel efficiency, go faster to get there quickly. It's a trade-off. Most Class Cs will drive at whatever speed you want just fine (well, except for fuel efficiency).
2. Most Class Cs will handle hills will little effort, but they will drive down MPGs into the toilet.
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Westronics
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02/24/10 09:54am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: swapping out a bed for an office
I have not done it, but it sounds like a fine idea to me. The main thing to be cautious of is weight distribution. You'll want to watch out that you do not create a situation where that side of the coach weighs significantly more than the other side.
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Westronics
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02/23/10 08:55am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: RV Quality Expectations
Hi, I have been promoted to the position of Quality Manager in my company. Our quality philosophy is that of "you" our customer. So in order for me to help build a better and quality product, I kindly need your input.
Please tell me the top 5 items that you would like for any RV manufacturer to improve in their products
At this time to get better data I would like to have my identity and the company I work for to be anonymous.
I look forward to your inputs. Thank You
It's simply, really. Functionality, fit and finish should all be flawless, or very nearly so. The idea that every new owner is expected to find a fairly long list of things that need to be fixed is ludicrous. I would think it would also be expensive re-work as warranty repairs that get billed back to the manufacturer - involving both the payment for the work and time involved in disputes with the dealer over whether to pay or not.
It occurs to me that it would be cheaper to have good quality inspections embedded into the build process and to start avoiding this routine re-work.
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Westronics
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02/23/10 08:51am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Extra driving in a C-how realistic?
Breaking camp going to trail heads and setting up camp again was OK for a while. Then the RV was broke into at a trail head. Since then my DW will never park at another trail head. With all the credit card charges and the damage to the RV we could have gotten a toad! It seems the bad guys DO KNOW how to pop locks out of van doors ( class C). The damage to just the door was over $2000.
We installed an alarm for just those sorts of times - though that may not really stop a thief, and your car is just as likely to get robbed as the MH.
Still, an alarm with a blinking warning light might just send the thief off looking for another target.
For the MH, we also almost always close up all the curtains so that no one can see in and they won't know if someone is inside or not.
Even at that, I would feel nervous with either a car or MH parked at a trail head.
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Westronics
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02/22/10 06:30pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Selling RV - Collecting Payment
It seems I have heard of a scam with cashiers checks that appear to be certified and legitimate but weeks later turn up to be counterfeit..
Why don't you take them to your bank, they give you cash, and the bank can notarize the title transfer. That way you know you are okay.
FWIW, the problem with fraudulence Cashier's Checks generally comes up only when the checks are drawn on a foreign bank, and even then it's generally with a check made out for more than the purchase price that comes with a request for the "change" in cash.
Domestic Cashier's Checks are not a serious problem. Of course, a verified electronic funds transfer is even better.
See http://banking.about.com/od/securityandsafety/a/cashierscheckfd.htm
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Westronics
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02/22/10 04:56pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Extra driving in a C-how realistic?
If you drive the most common sorts of 24' (or so) E-450 MHs, the number of places you cannot go is very limited.
With that in mind, and with small modifications in how we camp (end caps for water and sewer hoses to enable them to be dropped in place), we find it quite convenient to use only the MH for traveling. The biggest compromise we make is that one cannot be both in the campground and in town at the same time, so one spouse napping while the other runs an errand is difficult to do.
Not much of a downside for having no towing concerns.
It's not for everyone, but we find it works well for us.
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Westronics
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02/22/10 04:49pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Swivel Seats
There are swivel pedestals available for pretty much all Class C front seats, but, in most cases, they are not installed from the factory because the seats are lower than the house floor making such arrangements not very practical.
A very few Class Cs will have them, though.
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Westronics
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02/20/10 11:39pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Twin 12V Batteries, Charging Them Independantly - Surprise!
Everyone, thanks for all your inputs.
Ron, Off your OP wondering a bit perhaps, but ... IMHO cut out some birthdays this year or something similiar so as to save a few $$ elsewhere and finally find, or make, room for a couple of Group 31 AGMs in that beauty of yours! It's time to treat it right. ;)Could you enlighten me with what are, where do I buy, and how much do AGMs cost? Also, do they store as much power as conventional batteries?
As I have mentioned before, I am a real dim-wit when it comes to batteries.
I have researched this extensively and the most accurate statement I have ever seen is from Trojan battery company (who sell all three types mentioned below, so they don't care which you choose):
Generally, gel and AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, Gel and AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries (see table below). Gel batteries are more suitable for deep cycling applications whereas AGM batteries are more for light cycling and engine-starting applications.
See http://www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/FAQ/BatterySelection.aspx.
I have searched the web and found many, many site with misleading or even fraudulent information on this topic, so one needs to be really careful in ferreting out the truth.
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Westronics
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02/19/10 05:11pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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