RVingInAZ
Mesa, AZ
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Joined: 03/21/2008
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RV particulars: Coachmen Classic 31MB
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 454 with GM Transmission
Miles: 49,000
Year: 1988
Break Down Description: Starter engaged while driving at 65 MPH destroying starter and melting positive battery wires at starter.
Symptoms: Screaching similar to low steering pump fluid and pet dogs jumping off engine cover. Starter motor would engage with key in on position instead of start position.
Effect: Destroyed starter and inabliity to re-start engine.
Cause: Solinoid wire shorting with other live wire along section of wire bundle inside engine compartment.
Outcome: Replaced solinoid wire segment starting at ignition safety switch (I think that is what it is) on steering column all the way down to the starter relay on the top, front, right side of engine near mounting (I don't recall exactly what it mounts) bracket.
I am looking for more trouble shooting information in the forum so I figured that I would start with a successful trouble shooting situation post.
Have a great day,
Larry
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Rick Jay
Greater Springfield area, MA
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Joined: 02/02/2003
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Hi,
Welcome to the Open Roads Forum!!! 
Sorry to hear of your woes. I really don't know much about the ignition systems used on rigs of that era. I'd make sure the ignition switch itself and it's mechanicals are in good condition. It sounds like you found the problem with the shorted wire, but you want to make sure that the ignition switch isn't sending a signal to the starter which could cause that wire to overheat, melt the insulation and then short.
I would recommend that you inspect the "fly-wheel ring gear" which the starter drive engages to start the engine. Hopefully yours is OK, but I had a Ford Mustang in which the starter drive broke off and trashed the ring gear. THAT was a pain in the neck repair as I had to remove the tranny, bell housing, clutch, etc. I learned a lot, though. . Hopefully yours is OK, but I think it would be prudent to inspect the teeth on it.
Hopefully others will chime in with some more info for you.
Good Luck,
~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22 (Class A)
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (12-Angel), 1 girl (7), 2 boys (8 & 5), 1 plump Golden Retriever.
2001 Honda Odyssey with Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.
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RVingInAZ
Mesa, AZ
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Joined: 03/21/2008
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Hello Rick,
Thanks for the reply. It turns out that the ring gear is okay. Now when I actually get juice to the ignition switch it starts fine. Getting juice to the ignition switch is my new problem. I figure that I will search around for a bit and then make a new post if I don't find any solutions.
Thanks,
Larry
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Mike Hohnstein
Germantown, Wi
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Joined: 01/04/2004
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You need to rewire the power source to the chassis fuse box. Most P-30 chassis source all power from the large starter stud. Relocating to a Ford type solinoid mounted on the frame rail is the easiest way to fix the problem. A jumper wire between the start signal stud and the large stud is needed, and a suitable cable from frame mount solinoid to the starter. This modification keeps all the 'hot' wires away from the exhaust manifold heat.
This mod is a pretty normal race car fix. If the starter needs to be changed it makes life a lot easier. I don't mind Chevys, but that wiring technique is the worst. Keep in mind you may have some fusible link issues. I changed all the fusible link wire to circuit breakers of the proper amperage. Unwrapping the wire loom can reveal some amazing things, you need to do that. Don't assume that all the wires are in good shape. I have a 87 Airstream Classic on a P-30.
MH
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RVingInAZ
Mesa, AZ
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Howdy,
It is going to be a couple weeks before I will have time to look at it again. Thanks for the input.
Have a great day,
Larry
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