bsinmich
Holland, MI
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Joined: 11/18/2000
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When you are checking for spark the simplest way is to just hold the wire in your hand from a spark plug while someone cranks the engine. If you don't jump at least 6 feet you don't have enough spark.
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YC 1
Yuba City Calif.
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Joined: 01/11/2005
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bsinmich wrote:When you are checking for spark the simplest way is to just hold the wire in your hand from a spark plug while someone cranks the engine. If you don't jump at least 6 feet you don't have enough spark.
Quite true !
Since you have used starting fluid, that leaves one thing, no Spark. It takes a very weak spark to ignite that stuff.
Since I don't know your ignition system I will simply speculate. If it is an older coil and points system it is easy to troubleshoot. Buy a simple spark gap/plug tester. You remove a plug or use a spare, clamp it to a ground with one of your spark plug wires attached and crank. You should see pretty blue spark. If not, pop open the distributor and watch the points open and close while cranking. Stop cranking and leave the ignition in the run position. If you can connect the high voltage wire coming out of the top of the solenoid to the spark plug checker you can watch for sparks in the next test. See if the points are in a open state. Touch the starter a tad if they are not open. Now, with a small metal screwdriver, insulated handle of course, just short across the points. You should see a spark jump across the points. If not then you need a voltmeter to see if there is any voltage getting to the points. From there you may simply find a blown fuse that supplies it.
The spark in this type of system is created when the points open and close which is simply a fast on off switch that sends voltage to your ignition coil. Yes there are a couple of things such as ballast resistors etc but I don't think we should get into that.
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1995brave
San Antonio, TX
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My vote is for the dreaded Ballast resistor. Had a 73 Dodge van and kept three of them in the glove compartment, never knew when it would fail. Back then paid about $0.98 for each one.
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Sully2
Cincinnati
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Joined: 01/20/2003
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kenbert wrote:Look on the firewall for a ceramic block with 2 wires going to it. This is the ballast resistor and you could also look for the ignition control module which should also be on firewall, it is a square box with a 4 or 5 pin plug. Both of these are responsible for spark.
Ken
BINGO!! Ballast resistor!!!
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itsalleasy
USA
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Joined: 07/20/2007
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bsinmich wrote:When you are checking for spark the simplest way is to just hold the wire in your hand from a spark plug while someone cranks the engine. If you don't jump at least 6 feet you don't have enough spark.
You're too tough for me. I stick a phillips screw driver in the plug connection, lay the handle on the engine, hold the shaft close to the engine and crank.
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MichaelCram
Westport, Mass
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The symptom of a failed ballast resistor is that the engine would fire up while the key is in the start position but die out as soon as you release the key. The coil gets 12 volts from the ignition system during startup but switches to the ballast circuitry which reduces the voltage to the coil to 9 volts when the key is in the run position.
Mike & Paula
Westport, Mass
1986 Beaver Marquis 36'
8.2L Detroit DP
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john b
anywhere USA!
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Please do not touch the carbureator! Fix the ignition first or you will compound your problems! If it ran fine when you last ran it likely it isn't the carb. Do not just throw darts at it diagnose it first! If it is the old points system it should be easy and reasonable to do!!!IMHO Many things mentioned above just do not happen while sitting but ignition failures will! Almost 40 years of fixing & maintaining all types of these critters tell me this! Good luck!!
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OleRVer
Orlando,Fl.
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Joined: 04/06/2004
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bsinmich wrote:When you are checking for spark the simplest way is to just hold the wire in your hand from a spark plug while someone cranks the engine. If you don't jump at least 6 feet you don't have enough spark.
Should you lick your fingers first?
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sawdust_128
NC
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Joined: 04/26/2007
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spicie69 wrote: Its been serviced every year.
We drove it and parked it for the winter last year without a prob.
It turns over but will not kick to start.
Its getting fuel in the carb.
The timing belt is turning.
We have replaced plugs, coil, wire, distr cap and now were stuck.
It still just turns over and over and over till the battery dies but wont kick into start even with starting fluid.
Help plz hubbys bout to blow it up with dynamite he stated.
thank you.
I am assuming after the replacement parts, you verified that you have spark!? Yes?
Since you were driving it when it was put away, it has now had a parts tune-up, it is getting fuel, it is getting spark, I would suspect it is badly flooded and that the fuel has gone off; maybe some condensation of water into the fuel over the winter.
As others have said, you need a trouble shooting key to guide you through a systematic approach to this.
Good luck and I hope you get on the road soon.
Sawdust_128
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J.W.T.
Houston
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Joined: 01/10/2007
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Its the secondary coil. Dodge was famous with this problem in the 70's,80's and 90's. Always carry a spare as it goes out unexpectedly in the worst places.
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