pronstar
The LBC
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RCMAN46 wrote:
Many have mentioned gearing. Gearing will not enable you to go up the grades any faster than you can now. It will only allow you to go up in a higher gear.
Ummm...sure. To a degree. If you want to scream along in second gear pulling modest grades on the highway then more power to you.
I gurantee you that my bro-in-law's F150 on 35s tows up steep grades significantly faster turning 4.56 gears than it ever did turning 3.73s...with much less effort.
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD 4x4/QC/LB
2008 Stellar 23' Toy Hauler
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MikeRP
Circleville OH
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You know I just went through this difficult decision late last year. I had a 2005 Avalanche with 3.42's and the 5.3l paid for. I really looked into a gear change. Its not easy to find someone experienced in that work and they need to be done RIGHT on a 4wd. I never could get comfortable that someone could put the gears on without the whine I've heard before not to mention the best warranty I could get was 6 months or 6000 miles even form the dealer.
One person above mentioned he paid $25,000 for a 2004? Man that seems high to me since I paid 37,500 for a new 2008 megacab 4WD with everything except leather, sunroof and the nav system. $50450 was the sticker. But I see that pricing everywhere. I saw a great 2006 dullie this weekend. 2006 27000 miles for $29999.
Anyway, I didn't foresee diesel hitting $5.00 per gallon or I probably would have kept my zero payments and put on the turbo with Allan's help. I almost drove to Texas.
Anyway, good luck on the decision.
Mike
Also you have to deal with the locker on the rear end which is the wear link in the GM rear ends. Now it may be better on a 2500 HD - does anyone know?
Anyway, I ended up with a new Dodge. Of course buying one of these doesn't mean the mula stops. New tonneau cover, floor mats, etc. But it doesn't have a problem towing. I see alot of 2006 and earlier diesels out there for sale right now but they are still pricey for some reason.
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JustLabs
Washington State
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MikeRP wrote:
Also you have to deal with the locker on the rear end which is the wear link in the GM rear ends. Now it may be better on a 2500 HD - does anyone know?
The G80 in the GM trucks is light years ahead of the LS that Dodge puts in theirs.
I beat on my 2500HD for 70,000 miles and the G80 worked as well when I sold it as the day I bought it. I could ALWAYS count on the G80 to lock and unlock like it was supposed to. As soon as one tire started spinning,the G80 would lock up and both tires would pull.
The LS in my Dodge is terrible. It has a mind of its own. Just when you think the LS will kick in and start to work,the truck just sits there with one tire spinning.
Then,just when you are about to give up on the piece of junk working,it will work like it was intended.
* This post was
edited 05/20/08 11:16pm by an administrator/moderator *
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BruceStarkey
Ontario, Canada
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Well, as a long time pick-up owner, I was used to stepping outside the accepted limits established for their use. The older engines weren't tweaked anywhere near their limits to achieve emission standards of those days as they are today.
It would seem today that if you intend to tow heavy trailers with a pick-up, you really need to use one that was designed with that purpose in mind from the factory, reconfiguring one that was originally designed for lighter duty usage is going to be a compromise all round. Been there & done that!
The use of wheels and tires designed to perform off road and provide the owner with additional ground clearance and perhaps a more appealing to the eye appearance is also counter to what the most efficient and "stable" towing platform would demand.
Today is just the tomorrow you worried about yesterday!
'04' International 4400 LoPro 310Hp/950FtLbs 10Spd Harley/RV Toter
'05' Mobile Suites 38RL3
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McDonoughDawg
Peachtree City, GA, USA
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As usual, BenK's response was spot on. In my humble opinion.
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Scott_C
NJ
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FYI - swapping ring and pinion on a GM front is rarely ever below a grand from a shop that warrants its set-up work. The front differential is a real PITA to set-up (yes, I've done them and I swear you can never get the case to seal righ the first time). Rear is cake. Last time I did it, it was easier to find a swapper unit in the junkyard, but we were working a factory ratio (4.10). I *think* with the 2500, you have the larger front case and can get a ratio near where you need with those much-to-tall-for-towing wheels/tires. If it's the same case on the 1/2-ton, they don't make them. Call Randy's Ring and Pinion for all you ever need to know.
2008 Shamrock 21SS
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smkettner
Southern California
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4.88 gears will put you at 3000 rpm at 60 mph in 3rd gear (direct). That seems reasonable under the circumstances. If you are truely getting down to 5 mph you need more gear or more motor. What is your RPM at 5 mph in low gear? I guess maybe 2000 rpm max. You are below your power zone and using the very inefficient torque converter to add torque. With 4.10 and those tires and load you basically have a two speed transmission in the hills. (have you ever driven an old Power Glide?) 4.88 gears will give 19% more torque at the rear wheels at a given RPM. The real advantage will be when you gain RPM so the motor makes more power in addition to the additional rear wheel torque from the gears. The 4.88 will allow you to use at least three gears instead of two in the hills. 5.14 would not be unreasonable either IMO.
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 Lariat Offroad 4x4 Tow Package 4.10 Truetrac
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
12K SuperGlide, KGE3000Ti 2.3kw rated 2.6kw max
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ib516
Up here!
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Buy a used Duramax, and a Hypertech programmer (will add more power and be able to adjust for larger tires as you already know), and be done with it.
2004 Cougar 301 BHS 6580# Dry, 9000# wet, 9600# GVWR)
2007 Dodge/5.9L Cummins 3500 SRW Megacab 4x4/3.73
Hypertech Max Energy
"MEGACASPER" 10100# GVWR, 5200# FGAWR, 6200# RGAWR
PICTURES
ELIM 3000 Gen (still going )
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BruceStarkey
Ontario, Canada
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I have a question about 4:88's putting additional torque back onto the axle splines to drive those 33" tires, have the axle shafts been changed out to larger diameter with additional splines and also the carrier assy to accommodate or is it even necessary? Just asking.
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Engineer9860
Eagle Scout dad
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Joined: 08/10/2003
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BruceStarkey wrote:I have a question about 4:88's putting additional torque back onto the axle splines to drive those 33" tires, have the axle shafts been changed out to larger diameter with additional splines and also the carrier assy to accommodate or is it even necessary? Just asking.
His truck is a 2500HD so it has the AAM 1050 rear axle. It is the old GM 10.5" 14-bolt, only with a new name, and some ribs cast into the center housing. Everything else is the same.
That little 6.0L gasser will never make enough torque aside from wheel hopping to break that axle. And then it will most likely explode the differential side gears before twisting an axle.
The '77 Chevy K-30 in my sig is used for truck sled pulling at county fairs, and the like. It is also used to pull my gooseneck trailer around with various heavy loads on it. It has a 550hp 454 that will turn 7,000rpm. My '77 K-30 also has 33" tires like the OP's truck.
My K-30 uses a GM 14-bolt bone stock, with 1.5" 30 spline axle shafts, just like what is in the OP's truck, and my axle has never given a hint of trouble in 14 years of truck sled pulling, and gooseneck trailer pulling.
BruceStarkey- to answer your question, IMHO, the OP's axle doesn't need to be upgraded at all.
2002 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1/ZF6sp RC/LB
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0/4L80E EC/SB
1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4
1994 Chevy K-2500 4x4 C6P 5.7/4L80E
1979 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10
1977 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10 454
30 year student of the Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress
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