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 > P30 Brakes

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todder

WI

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Posted: 06/15/08 07:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Anyone run into this? In my Coachmen P30 I had a strange dangerous deal this weekend. We left home, drove for about and hour stopped for groceries but left it run. After about 20 minutes of idling we pulled out and I had a stuck brake pulling hard hard to the right. Got up to speed and it seemed to slowly release. After a few miles it was fine. We stopped again later and I left it running (to keep the dog cool) for about 30 minutes. Pulled out, same thing but when I was stabbing the pedal thinking those calipers are still sticky I lost most braking, brake light on, and pedal to the floor. I got it stopped and shut it off for an hour checked fluid ect started it and it was fine,pedal back light off. Throughout the weekend I noticed when I stop and it idles more than a few minutes the brake problem comes back and goes away after moving a few miles. I'm thinking a brake line is near the exhaust which would expand the fluid to lock the brake until it cools down from airflow. Sound logical? Thanks

samert

Rockford, MI

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Posted: 06/15/08 07:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a similar problem (serious pull to one side) on a P30 chassis that turned out to be the brake hose to the caliper that had collapsed and wasn't allowing the pressure to release.

This of course doesn't explain why idling the engine would cause this. It may be just a coincidence.

However, this could cause you to loose braking by boiling the brake fluid on the one side that is stuck.


Steve & Judy
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CSpenceFLY

Macon,Ga

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Posted: 06/15/08 07:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think you might be dealing with two different problems.

Someone already mentioned the brake line thing.

The brake light thing with the pedal to the floor, I had that happen once. Someone told me it was a stuck check valve. It happened once and never happened again although I did replace the steering/booster pump but that was a while after it happened.

I'm curious if your unit has been sitting for any length of time. One other thing to consider is a caliper sticking in the slide.


"You're lucky to be alive my friend."
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Takereasy

South Texas near Victoria

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Posted: 06/15/08 08:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Probably a combination of a weak brake line inner lining and the hot brake fluid causing it to collapse. A dollar says new brake lines will resolve the issue.


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garry1p

Broken Arrow, OK, USA

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Posted: 06/15/08 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New brake lines AND new fluid;

I am with Steve sounds like we have both been there done that.


Garry1p


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todder

WI

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Posted: 06/15/08 10:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did the caliper anti seize in the holders as mentioned a while back in a previous post. I checked rockauto.com and calipers and hoses are very inexpensive so I'll replace all of them. I can do all four corners for under $200.

Rustydog

Bethel Park, Pa

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Posted: 06/15/08 11:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Both flex hoses in the front as well as the one on the rear should be replaced. The brake fluid s/b replaced with a high quality DOT 3 or 4 fluid. I would replace both front calipers with new pads. The calipers and pads took the heat from the delaminated hose.

Iann

Riverview, FL

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Posted: 06/16/08 10:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check the local Napa for all the brake parts. I was able to get everything but the rotors (calipers, pads, and lines) for the rear and it was only $318.

Ian

bsinmich

Holland, MI

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Posted: 06/16/08 03:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Brake fluid doesn't boil that easy but when water gets into the brake line you will find the water will boil and then the pedal will go to the floor. Moisture will get into the master cylinder with normal expansion and contraction from temperatures outside since the master cylinder is not an air-tight system. The moisture will settle in the system and that is probably a cause of corrosion in calipers and lines. You could still have a bad hose. Ford has now gone to recommending brake line flushes every 2 years on their MH chassis. I do mine every 3. Ford brake fluid was rated as having the highest boiling point of any type 3 fluid when I read the last report. I buy Ford fluid for my WH chassis. I went through a red light at the bottom of a hill once in my '89 Ford chassis and had all the same symptoms you had with everything working fine in an hour. Many mechanics will look at you as a little strange when you say you want to flush your brake fluid but don't worry. There is one great advantage when that happens on a MH. You have your clean underwear very close.


2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, & 2002 PT Cruiser w/Remco lube pump, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake

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