Devocamper
West Haven CT
Full Member
Joined: 02/15/2004
View Profile
 Offline
|
I have posted the questions about upgrading my tires for a little extra comfort and am pretty sure I am going to go for the 265-75-16's and gain the 800 lbs or so of load.( I am under my axle weight by 700 lbs at the current load)Just looking for a wiggle room. I am now looking at tire specs and I see where the first few I looked at are for 7 inch rims and my current rims are 6 1/2 . My question is did those of you that have replaced the 245's with the larger tire also change the rims ? the few tire shops I have called said I did not need to change the rims but we all know about talking to a tire shop, your never sure who your talking with. thanks for any info in advance and happy and safe travels.
08 NU-WA Hitchhiker Discovery America 339 RSB
03 GMC 2500HD ext cab 8.1 Allison
|
browns329
New Jersey
Senior Member
Joined: 02/02/2008
View Profile
Offline
|
See my thread HERE. Several people said to go with a wider rim for the 265's. I think I am going to stick with the 245's since I like my stock GM alloy wheels and do not want to spend the money on new rims just for the small increase in tire size. A load range "E" 245 will have plenty of capacity (my truck is 8600 GVWR and tires are rated for 3000 lb each).
2003 GMC Yukon XL 2500 (3/4 ton), SLT, 4x4, 8.1L, Autoride, 4.10 gears
Putnam XDR, Equalizer 1400#, Tekonsha P3
2008 Jayco Eagle 314BHDS (Bunk house double slide)
Me, DW, 2 DD, lots of pets
|
mowermech
Billings, MT
Senior Member
Joined: 06/28/2003
View Profile
Offline
|
That half inch of rim width will make no difference at all. After all, it is only a quarter inch on each side of the tire!
Seriously, though, you can put the 265 tires on your stock rims no problem. I did, long ago.
I have to wonder, though, why you put more faith in the advice of total strangers on an internet forum than you do your local tire shops? Isn't there ANY shop in your town that you deem trustworthy?
CM1, USN (RET)
'94 Dodge 3500 4X2 CTD, Std. cab, LB, 5 speed, 4.10 LS diff., Jacobs Rambrake, 273,000 Miles
'99 Monaco McKenzie 32' triple slide
'95 Tioga 29H Ford-based Class C
Daily driver: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD
Towed: '06 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited
|
donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
Since you are going to change the tires, you might as well get wheels that are certified and strong enough to handle the overload. The 2500HD wheels you have on are probably not certified to carry the weight you are placing on them. No matter what tire you place under the truck, the weakest link is still going to determine how much you can safely load onto that 3/4 ton.
Donn
|
fireman148
Collierville
Full Member
Joined: 06/04/2008
View Profile
Offline
|
You don't have to change, it'll be fine.
|
|
|
SoCalDesertRider
SanDiego, CA, USA
Senior Member
Joined: 12/14/2003
View Profile
|
Like donn0128 said, upgrading the tires for higher weight carrying rating is great, but you need to find out what the wheels are rated for and may need to upgrade them as well to match the increased load you intend to put on the tires.
That extra half inch may or may not make a difference. Check with the tire manufacturer for the specifications of the model and size tire you intend to use and find out what their recommended rim width range is. If your current wheels fall within that range, then the width will be fine. If they fall outside that range, or if the current wheels are not up to the load weight rating of the new tires, then upgrade them to wider, stronger rims.
92F350 CrewCab 4x4 351/C6
LoadNGo service body
69Bronco ATC250R CR500
20' BigTex flatbed carhauler
B&W TurnoverBall g-neck Curt Magnum rr DrawTite ft
HD springs Rancho9000s Bilsteins poly sway bushings
285/75-16E BFG AT on 16x8 Stocktons
4.56's & Lock-Rite rear
|
reno82
Cardiff by the Sea, CA
Senior Member
Joined: 04/01/2008
View Profile
Offline
|
I've been running 265's on my stock 2500HD rims since I bought it, Chevy will put the 265's on those rims as an option, so the idea that they may not be safe on those rims doesn't hold water.
|
sdfleetwing
SD
New Member
Joined: 04/01/2008
View Profile
Offline
|
I made the change you did 7 years ago and have had no problems.
|
Devocamper
West Haven CT
Full Member
Joined: 02/15/2004
View Profile
Offline
|
mowermech wrote:That half inch of rim width will make no difference at all. After all, it is only a quarter inch on each side of the tire!
Seriously, though, you can put the 265 tires on your stock rims no problem. I did, long ago.
I have to wonder, though, why you put more faith in the advice of total strangers on an internet forum than you do your local tire shops? Isn't there ANY shop in your town that you deem trustworthy?
|
BenK
SF BayArea
Senior Member
Joined: 04/18/2002
View Profile
|
There is a lot of engineering and re-engineering when changing tire
size and wheel specifications.
Or even tire pressure. There is more to it than just weight carrying,
though very important. Tire pressure is mainly to keep the tire shape
during the whole range (from just sitting there to stopping with all
you have, to cornering at the extreme conditions).
Let out the tire pressure to, say 10 psi, and it will still carry
the weight of most vehicles that they are on. As the weight is being
carried by that tire off the pavement, right? But unsafe for normal
pavement driving. Off roaders do that all the time, but they aren't
driving on pavement, but off road and not going any faster than, say
10-15 MPH.
The wheel rim width recommended range has to do with the sidewall bend
back. The more bend back, the more it will willingly bend during a
bump. Less bend back (wider rim) will have the sidewall straighter
and less willing to bend when a bump is encountered. Both with the
same tire and pressure, just wider/narrower rim width.
The rim width also affects the tires slip angle and T&T. Wider will
have a smaller slip angle and better T&T. Slip angle is the angle
the tire takes vs what the vehicle takes vs the steering wheel input
is telling the tire to take. T&T is toss and tuck. Yank the steering
wheel left and how long it takes the tire to respond and how long it
takes the tire to transmit that steerage to the vehicle...that is 'toss'.
Once the vehicle/tire/steering settles down and is into that turn and
no longer protests...that is 'tuck'.
Wider rims provide higher performance, but at the cost of ride quality.
Why most OEM setups will have narrow rims and their 'performance' package
will have wider rims.
Here are some pictures and write ups from past articles wrote for mag's and
posted on forums.
This image kinda sorta shows the side wall bendback and how it looks
during a turn. If there is more bendback, then the wheel will lean
more. Less and the wheel will not.
This is my current setup, but now have Bridgeston Revo AT's
(LT265/75R16E). Alcoa Classic alloy wheels (16x10, 16" dia and 10" wide
rims-bead to bead).
Notice that this just over 10" section width tire is almost 12"
section width on the wider rims. Did that on purpose. Ride quality
is not on my 'have to have' list and at the bottom of my 'nice to
have' list.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
|
|
|
|
