pmv
New Hampshire
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Joined: 05/03/2008
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Looking to add a pad to park my Winnebago View for the winter. Is a gravel pad ok (if so, how thick should I have the gravel) or should I really have a concrete slab?
Thanks!
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tom_kat
way upstate new york/lake george area
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cement would be better but a gravel or crushed stone bedding really needs to settle first or have it compacted real well, gravel will do, crushed stone is better cement is best but i would put it on some pressure treated planks to keep it from sinking into the gravel or stone base while it settles.about 6 inches of base product would do,i would use crushed stone myself its also a good solid base if you poured a reinforced cement pad later.if you went and used blacktop instead make it thick like 6 inches of it instead of the normal 1 1/2 to 2 inches like they do for driveways,
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ronfisherman
SE Michigan
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I installed a gravel pad. Put a paver brick pad where the tires set. Pad is a year old now with no signs of settling. MH weighs close to it rated weight of 19,500 lbs.
Went to a local landscape place for recomdation on how to build paver brick area to support my RV's weight.
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Tiger4x4RV
San Diego County, California
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Check your local codes. Some cities around here require solid paving, and in some cities gravel is OK.
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Burp
St. George's Island, MD
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Here is an idea you can use with gravel - link. We are restricted on our coverage of the land (no more than 15% impervious coverage) so gravel is the best answer for us. These pads prevent sinking and protect your tires from the elements.
2007 Winnebago Voyage 33V (Workhorse, W20)
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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I've heard that "blacktop" isn't good...it's petroleum based, which will eat at the tires that are sitting for long periods of time. Of course, you can put pieces of plywood down under the tires....
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ron.dittmer
Near Chicago
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Black top, pavers over a sand base, gravel, the rubber pad in the picture above, all will eventually sink with the weight of the RV. This will leave your tires in puddles. That's what you want to avoid. It is good to rest the suspension on blocks to get the tires in the air. Not much, just enough. Finally, cover the tires from the sun. You should get much more life from the tires then.
Ideally is "Sealed" concrete with a decent pitch to get water to drain off. Maybe the guy above did something special with his pavers. But sealed concrete will also act as a moisture barrier to significantly reduce under-body rust.
* This post was
edited 07/27/08 09:18pm by ron.dittmer *
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lane hog
Tucson, AZ
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I always thought gravel was preferable to concrete in that it allows water to drain faster in most cases, and reacts a little better to frost heave. It's certainly easier and less costly to maintain.
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buchrob
Stanstead QC
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What do folks understand by "gravel".
In many areas of the country, it's a mix of crushed stone and dirt, while a lot of folks are thinking it's loose crushed stone that drains well.
My driveway is gravel (as defined above). There is no way that water drains through it because it has knitted together. Water just flows down it like a river.
At the back of my bouse, I have 16 inches of crushed stone (no dirt, just clean 1/2 - 3/4" stone particles). Water drains instantly.
If you are on loose foundations ("gravel" or crushed stone), I would recommend parking on treated 12" planks, in whatever configuration works to get the tires off the ground.
Parking on cement or asphalt, then buy some cheapie nylon kitchen cutting boards to keep the tires from leeching chemical into or out of the ground.
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kendall69
Palm Springs California
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Do the best of both - mostly gravel, cement under all the tires.
Cheap yet solid as pavement.
2002 - Bigfoot M-29G, 2004 Jeep Rubicon Toad
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