GATJcampers
CA
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First off thanks for all the replies. I tested the batts while plugged in and it was about 13 volts then i tested them while unplugged and i got just under 13 volts. then i turned on the inverter and checked again and it was just under 13 volts. the inverter has a readout that shows the output and it reads 0.0. so i dont think the charger runs off the inverter. I can't tell just by looking what the wire size is but it looks pretty big. bigger than a pencil, maybe the size of my pinky finger. I plugged in a toaster and tested it at full batt strength and i got an error message for "under voltage". The solution it says is to reduce the load. My batteries are 2 months old. The recommended wire size for the inverter is 12awg(note sure what size that is) .the distance from the inverter to the batt is only about3 or 4 feet however the wire run is more than that maybe 5 to 6 feet.
As far as checking the appliance requirements to figure out the needed watts how do you do that? Does it say it somewhere on the appliance. I looked all over the toaster and didnt see anything.
I plugged in and ran the toaster just fine but the a/c power runs straight through the inverter and powers the entire trailer so i am not sure what that test will show. anymore help you guys have i really appreciate it. This is my crash course in electrical equipment!
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Javlin101
Alberta Canada
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All appliance have either amp draw or watts posted on them, you just need to find it. Anything with a heat element, coffee machines, toasters, electric kettles are power hogs. Your coffee machine may run at 1500w but requires 2400 watts to get started. What kind of batteries do you have. I have a 2000w Trip-lite inverter/charger installed with 2 T105 6v batteries. I can run a coffee machine, toaster ect no problem but they do draw the batt's down quickly.
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wolfe10
Texas
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12' run (electrons go from battery to inverter AND back).
1800 watts divided by 12 VDC= 150 amps.
For 3% voltage drop (recommended): 2 GAUGE WIRE minimum--larger is better
* This post was
edited 08/07/08 07:49pm by wolfe10 *
Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
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Electronpusher
Southern Oregon
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GATJcampers wrote:First off thanks for all the replies. I tested the batts while plugged in and it was about 13 volts then i tested them while unplugged and i got just under 13 volts. then i turned on the inverter and checked again and it was just under 13 volts. the inverter has a readout that shows the output and it reads 0.0. so i dont think the charger runs off the inverter.
Hmm-- sorry I don't think I know what you are trying to say here--
If the inverter is providing AC input to the charger that circuit must be defeated in some fashion-- Perhaps your RV has only the TVs and one dedicated outlet connected to the inverter as you described and that would be fine--
I can't tell just by looking what the wire size is but it looks pretty big. bigger than a pencil, maybe the size of my pinky finger. I plugged in a toaster and tested it at full batt strength and i got an error message for "under voltage". The solution it says is to reduce the load. My batteries are 2 months old.
The recommended wire size for the inverter is 12awg(note sure what size that is)
That (12 gauge) would be for the AC output not the 12 VDC input--
As I thought it might, the Xantrex manual specifies 2/0 cable not 2 gauge and specifically limits length to five feet or less--
Xantrex
4/0 cable would be better-- With high loads and a marginal battery capacity the size and length of the input cable become critical--
.the distance from the inverter to the batt is only about3 or 4 feet however the wire run is more than that maybe 5 to 6 feet.
As far as checking the appliance requirements to figure out the needed watts how do you do that? Does it say it somewhere on the appliance. I looked all over the toaster and didnt see anything.
I plugged in and ran the toaster just fine but the a/c power runs straight through the inverter and powers the entire trailer
Which is it ? Does the inverter power "the whole trailer" or just the TVs and one outlet ? Earlier i think you said this was the case and now you are saying you wired the inverter using its internal transfer switch so that it will power everything ????????
so i am not sure what that test will show. anymore help you guys have i really appreciate it. This is my crash course in electrical equipment!
ReM
Dick & Bette
and
Jedediah the Cat
2004 Journey 36G
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smkettner
Southern California
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GATJcampers wrote:I tried to plug in a cofee maker and it shuts off, vegtable steamer and it shuts off, a toaster and it shuts off.
Maybe I missed it. Do the items shut off or does the inverter? The inverter will generally only shut down due to overload or low input voltage. I don't think any of those items will overload the inverter. A combination could over load the inverter. Such as water heater and any one of those items.
More likely it is low input voltage if the inverter is shutting down. Hold a volt meter on the 12 volt input connectors while someone turns on the coffee pot. Anything below 11.0 volts is looking for trouble. Measure at the inverter terminals not the battery.
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GATJcampers
CA
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First off sorry for the confusion, I am trying to answer 5 different question on one post and just confused the issue.
On battery power only, when i plug an appliance into the one outlet powered by the inverter the appliance itself shuts off or the appliance shuts off and gives an error message "under voltage". The inverter is prewired to run 2 tvs and one outlet, it is not hooked up to any thing else.
someone had posted to run several different checks with the inverter on and the trailer plugged into house power etc..., the top of my last post was trying to give those results. It would be simpler to just say I dont believe the battery charger is powered by the inverter.
I am trying to attach a diagram on how my inverter is wired but i can't seem to figure that out yet.let me know how to do that if you know. that would help a lot. thanks eveyone
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smkettner
Southern California
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GATJcampers wrote:the appliance itself shuts off or the appliance shuts off and gives an error message "under voltage".
That sounds like modified sine wave problem. The peak to peak voltage is lower for MSW even though the root mean square voltage is correct and the correct average power is available.
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SPRey
Orange County, Kalifornia
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smkettner wrote:GATJcampers wrote:the appliance itself shuts off or the appliance shuts off and gives an error message "under voltage".
That sounds like modified sine wave problem. The peak to peak voltage is lower for MSW even though the root mean square voltage is correct and the correct average power is available.
Interesting...I would never think MSW problem would effect a coffee maker...that of course is assuming the 1800w inverter can operate a 1000w coffee maker--and the cabling is short.
I would think there might be too much demand for that little 1800w.
Tim & Sue
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Bigger than a pencil but smaller than a pinkey finger.. Yours or mine? (I have big fingers)
I'm going to stick with the suggestion you need bigger and better 12 volt wireing
First the wires need to be as short as possible, the connections need to be clean and tight and the wires need to be the proper size, as someone said 2ga or bigger, think bigger think 0 or 2/0 or 4/0 (Welder shops have 'em)
Next run the wires tight toghther (Tape them side by side) for as much of the run as possible, I know this may not sound like it will make a difference... but it does.
And yes, adding more battery would not hurt
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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GATJcampers
CA
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I talked to a guy at xantrex today and he might have shed some light on the problem. As per the Thor inverter connection sheet the inverter output is a 12awg cord that is plugged into a gfci recepticle on the front of the inverter and runs from there to a junction box and from there feeds the 2 tvs and 1 recepticle in the trailer. The tech support guy said the inverter output cannot be plugged into the gfci, it must be hard wired which is done behind the gfci recepticle.
He had me unplug the a/c input plug and try the inverter. I tried a toaster and a veggie steamer and they both worked no problem. tech guy said once i get the inverter output hardwired properly i can replug in the a/c input and all will be well. I installed it exactly how Thor showed me and i guess that was my downfall. Once i get this thing hard wired correctly i'll let you guys know what happens. I appreciate everyone's patience and great ideas, thanks a lot!
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