mrsmokey
MA>,02379
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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Air Conditioner blows hot air when stopped for a while. Then it cools right down as I am driving. The front fan is running when this happens I was having trouble with the blower speeds , like it would only run on fast. But that problem went away, Any ideas on this problem. It blows very cold air while I am traveling down the hyway. but as soon as I stop the warm air starts blowing..It's a 1999 Brave.
SMOKEY
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henchman
Cardinal, Ontario
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Joined: 06/01/2006
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Prolly little low on 134 or condenser is dirty.
Ian
1991 Winnebago Warrior 30eu
OLD RIG
2006 Chevy Uplander 3.5l
2005 Jayco Sport 165 18' 3500lbs loaded
Putnam WD w/800lb bars
Acar friction type sway control
Hoppy digital display brake control
BALANCED tires! (Please everyone, balance your tires!)
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bullydogs1
New Jersey
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Joined: 06/26/2006
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Boy do I know this problem well---there are two possibilities here..
1. The compressor turns off at idle which is a possibility and unfortunately normal with GM engines in the nineties(I don't think it is this)
2. OR (this is my belief) the intake for fresh air is in a place where very hot air builds up on engine at idle and when you move you force fresh air in....(this is with many workhorse engines)--and here is the work around....when you are at idle--turn the AC to the max ac setting...then only recirc air will be drawn in and not outside air...if the air stays cool---this is what it is..only use the AC normal setting at moving speeds..you kind of have to live with it this way --I do---otherwise I would have to make a device and pipe it to the front grill to keep drawing in fresh air...
Stuart and Stella Denning
2009 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 41SKQ
Our 4 Bulldogs (Summer, Sully, Sierra and Great-Grandma Demi)
2007 Saturn Vue (TOAD)
Diesel is provided by your safely trained drivers, as pictured below
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Bagger97
Littleton, Co
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Joined: 03/11/2005
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Check all the vacuum lines that control the heater/air doors. You might have a leak and the door to the heater core opens at low idle.
Alan & Patty
Munchkin & Maddison
2006 Itasca Sunova 29R SE
We'd rather motorize our winterhome than winterize our motorhome.
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brobox
Sunny SW. Florida
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Joined: 11/18/2003
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It sounds like your R-134 is low. It can be checked with a gauge hooked on the low side of the compressor. The gauge and easy to follow instruction are available at Wal-Mart.
Chuck
02 Travel Supreme, 2 street side slides
02 Jeep Liberty Toad
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jmerritt
Evendale, Ohio
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Joined: 11/14/2000
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I don't understand why you want to have the AC drawing in outside air when the ambient outside air temperature is high. It just makes sense that if the AC system drops the air therough the evaporator 15-20 degrees the better choice is to have the coolest air going through the evaporator which should be the recirculated air. Also, the AC system will do a better job of dehumidifying the air by recirculating. Am I missing something in why people would want to draw in warmer more humid outside air when the ambient outside air temp is high?
John
1988 Fleetwood Limited 37' MH
1999 F-350 PSD Super Duty 4x4 Coachmen Royal 32' TT
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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brobox wrote:It sounds like your R-134 is low. It can be checked with a gauge hooked on the low side of the compressor. The gauge and easy to follow instruction are available at Wal-Mart.
Chuck using the WM gauge can be dangerous to your health and that of your motor home. Pressure and volume are two different things a local A/C shop tells me.
I thought I was going to have a heart attack using the WM gauge. I was trying to get it up into the run zone on my 1992 454 P30 chassis because the PO said it needed some R-134a.
My compressor was making a clucking sound but I kept going to get the reading the gauge said was the correct low side pressure. The compressor safety valve released and I about lost it.
The noise and the vapor was scarely. After a trip to the house I came back and started it up again and it was cooling fine and the compressor clucking was gone.
After we loss our gas when we pulled the radiator I took it to the shop that the owner took the time to teach me a few automotive A/C facts to pump it down and recharge it.
Service and gas was $52. The static reading was like 65 (it is in another thread) and the live low side reading was 10 PSI at idle and 15 at 2000 RPM the best I remember. It has cooled fine for 500-600 miles since and with temps in the upper 90's. That is my story. 
John I agree with you but one reason to open up and get some fresh air is insure CO is not building up inside, you passed some chicken houses or have gas problem from other two legged animals on the inside.
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mrsmokey
MA>,02379
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I'm still looking for this problem. When I come to a stop the ac clutch drops out, and then the cold air stops. I start backup and at about 15 MPH the clutch kicks back in and cool air returns. The fan speed switch is also a factor. The blower stops working on all 3 speeds. I think I have a bad ground connection, but havn't had much luck locating it . I did jump the clutch with 12 volts and it starts cooling right away. I can't find any type of speed switch in this logic diagram, but I may switch the obc out and see if it matters. Oh well it will be cool soon, or We might just have to head South. Also It is hard to shoot this bug in a campground. Will keep you posted
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Can you check your voltage going to the electro magnetic compressor clutch? Since 12 volts locks the clutch you may have a connection or something in the circuit dropping voltage at idle.
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mrsmokey
MA>,02379
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Yes Gale, the 12 volts drops out when I come to a stop. I had a few things to try today , but the sucker would not fail. So I have to assume it is a bad connection or relay that is loosing the voltage to the clutch coil. I also have this problem with the blower not running at all speeds , and that did not fail today either. It was not a very hot day today, so I will try again tommorro. Thanks for the help
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