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ghamblen

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Posted: 08/26/08 07:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We are in the process of downsizing to a class C from a class A. I plan on installing scissors jacks on the class C. They are rated at 7500 lbs. per jack. If I install them right behind the rear wheels (Ford E450) can they safely be used to jack up the motorhome to change a rear tire?


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M GO BLUE

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Posted: 08/26/08 08:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Scissor jacks are designed to stabilize RV's to help in eliminating most movement but are not designed to raise or lower an RV...we use Lynx levelers to change a tire if needed...


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Posted: 08/26/08 08:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ghamblen wrote:

We are in the process of downsizing to a class C from a class A. I plan on installing scissors jacks on the class C. They are rated at 7500 lbs. per jack. If I install them right behind the rear wheels (Ford E450) can they safely be used to jack up the motorhome to change a rear tire?

I wouldn't do that. If the jack is cranked up too high to get the wheel off the ground, it may become unstable and the MH could fall. I would get a bottle jack or a small floor jack for that purpose.
Much much safer.


M GO BLUE wrote:

Scissor jacks are designed to stabilize RV's to help in eliminating most movement but are not designed to raise or lower an RV...we use Lynx levelers to change a tire if needed...

Now explain to me how this is done? I hope you don't drive up on one and take all the lugs off and pull off the outside wheel? And if you do, do that, what happens when you get an inside flat? I would NEVER take lugs off with the weight of the MH on one tire without lugs on a leveling pad!

on edit: I see in your signature, that you have a TT. Ok, I can see the LL in use for changing a tandem tire. But the OP is talking about dual rear wheels and a MH. Different animal.


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dobbler98

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Posted: 08/26/08 09:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I second the bottle jack suggestion. That's what we use. Just make sure you position it on the frame so you don't poke a hole in the floor.


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Westronics

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Posted: 08/26/08 09:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ghamblen wrote:

We are in the process of downsizing to a class C from a class A. I plan on installing scissors jacks on the class C. They are rated at 7500 lbs. per jack. If I install them right behind the rear wheels (Ford E450) can they safely be used to jack up the motorhome to change a rear tire?


In a word, no.

While they can certainly support the weight, they are not sufficiently stable for this use.

Ask me how I know.


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Dakzuki

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Posted: 08/26/08 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Even if you had a jack of the capacity you need you'd be so high in the air to get a wheel off the groung it would be dangerous. Better to put a jack under the axle/suspension. You don't have to lift so far if you are directly lifting the suspension without it sagging.


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ron.dittmer

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Posted: 08/26/08 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 6 ton bottle jack does a great and safe job of lifting a class-C motorhome at the rear axle or a front lower control arm. The RV lifts only enough to get the tire off the ground, and NOT A BIT more. Lifting at the axle or control arm means you are lifting up the RV about 3 inches. Lifting at the frame could be 6" to 9" which is much less stable.

6 to 12 ton bottle jacks can be bought at any auto supply places, even Walmart. They run around $20-$30 and they are not heavy to handle nor bulky to store.


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mowermech

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Posted: 08/26/08 10:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rolling the inside dual up onto a block to replace the outside dual is quite common, actually, but usually ONLY with BUDD wheels on large trucks, where the inside wheel is held on with the inner nut, and the outer wheel is held on with a large nut that is threaded over the inner nut. When the outside wheel is removed, the inner wheel is still held firmly in place.
As for using a scissors jack for lifting, yes, it can probably be done, after all, many vehicles came with a scissors jack as standard equipment for tire changing. However, they were not 24 inches tall! I had them on my old '86 Suncrest for stabilizing and limited leveling, but I would NEVER have tried to use them for tire changing. A hydraulic jack (bottle jack) under the axle or spring is the only way to go, IMO.


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jojolou

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Posted: 08/26/08 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When we had our class C, I had 2 scissor jacks bolted to the rear frame for stabilizing, I carried 2 extra that I would place on each side of the front to add even more stability. For changing a flat, I carried a 12 ton bottle jack and would use that to raise the coach, and use one of the extra scissor jacks (as a jack stand) for extra safety AFTER I got it jacked up with the bottle jack.

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Posted: 08/26/08 11:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mowermech wrote:

Rolling the inside dual up onto a block to replace the outside dual is quite common, actually, but usually ONLY with BUDD wheels on large trucks, where the inside wheel is held on with the inner nut, and the outer wheel is held on with a large nut that is threaded over the inner nut. When the outside wheel is removed, the inner wheel is still held firmly in place.


True, but not too common anymore since the late 90's. Most heavy vehicles today went to hub piloted wheels. Plus even though it WAS done, it still is NOT the correct way to get it up to change a tire.

You should always jack up a heavy vehicle under the spring shackle plate. I've never seen any tire road service personel do it by driving up on a block. Ever. Even if it's stud piloted.

I would certainly NEVER recommend it.

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