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 > Restricting Current Into a Heater?

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greenrvgreen

open road

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Posted: 09/19/08 02:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, looks like this idea is a bust. Katuna's Variacs look good, but it's still bulky, and like he said, the $100 model is just the tip of the iceberg.

On a practical basis, I already manage the water heater by manually plugging and unplugging it. This also has an added safety benefit, since I (the novice) installed the water heater: AC current is never hooked up while I'm in the shower.

For the heater, I'll probably buy an off-the-contractor-shelf baseboard heater, in something like 500 watts/120 VAC (I've already got a space heater, I want fanless). Two hundred dollars later, it will be almost as good as the one I've got, which is simply too powerful.

Thank you all, it was a learning experience for me and I appreciate your efforts!

Big Katuna

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Posted: 09/19/08 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Those oil filled portable heaters work pretty good. They take awhile to heat up but they keep putting out heat when they are off. At least for awhile. They usually have a low and high setting


My Kharma ran over my Dogma.

pfunk

Shelby Township, MI

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Posted: 09/19/08 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Big Katuna wrote:

Those oil filled portable heaters work pretty good. They take awhile to heat up but they keep putting out heat when they are off. At least for awhile. They usually have a low and high setting
plus they are the one of the safest portable heat thier is


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ol Bombero-JC

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Posted: 09/19/08 04:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As you've seen - yor're beating your head against the wall on this one!

Another vote for the oil filled heaters.
With a little bit of looking you can find the 3-setting version.
or -
wear a sweater / sweatshirt / jacket.

(that's 3 "settings" too! One, two, or all, LOL!)

~

AlanB

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Posted: 09/19/08 04:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are industrial size dimmers that can easily handle 1500 watts. They use triacs and have zero crossover detection so they are not noisy and very low power loss, and not very expensive. To a dimmer, a heater and a light bulb look the same.

Another option, if you more than one heater element, wire them in series for half power.


AlanB
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AlanB

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Posted: 09/19/08 04:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Correction to above, light dimmers use thyristors, not triacs.

nbounder

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Posted: 09/19/08 08:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The consesus is that its cheaper to buy a dual power heater than to fiddle with any of the other (some questionable) ideas. Yes, you can get a dimmer that will supply high power levels. It has a large heatsink and gets hot and is used mainly in theaters. Is there an objection to using a 'dual-speed' heater?

Mousefart

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Posted: 09/20/08 08:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well here's the problem, if you are trying to be "green", electric heaters already work at close to 100% efficiency. So reducing it's input current by 50% will reduce it's output by exactly 50%. You gain nothing but a colder RV.

Also, a $19 Wal-Mart heater is exacly as effecient as a $100 Pelonis heater. So the suggestions to just go out a buy a cheap heater with two or three power levels are the correct answers. You will spend many times the cost of these heaters trying to rig electronic contraptions that are not going to make a 100% efficient heater into a 120% efficient one.

If you want to be "green", figure out how to get the propane powered appliances in your RV to run at 90% efficiency instead of the average 60% efficiency. If you do, you will be very "green" and very WEALTHY!


Paul (Mouse)

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Hurricaner

Hurricane Utah

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Posted: 09/20/08 10:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One thing to consider is even if there is a heat loss, who cares, after all that's what your trying to produce.

Sam


Sam & Kari
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C Schomer

Buckeye, Az.

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Posted: 09/20/08 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The space heater is easy... the cheapest way is to get a 2 or 3 output unit. Can you do with a lower wattage WH all the time? There's lots of different electric elements for them. Maybe change it to a lower wattage. BTW. A x V + W and with a resistive load, A & V vary proportionately so if you drop A or V by 1/2 the resulting W will be 25%. So you could actually use two 1500w heaters in series and get 750w (1500x25%x2) but the warp switches might not turn down low enough to operate. Craig

* This post was edited 09/20/08 11:10am by C Schomer *


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