I have read many of the threads in this section for the search term
"atwood water heater"
and the Atwood site:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Service/Trouble/electric.cfm
Under "NO SPARK AND NO GAS"
is the gas solenoid whic is my prime suspicion. It is not operating and passing the gas.
I do not have a meter to check the presence of voltage tonite, but is is possible that the solenoid can sieze up?
The rig has been stored in high desert for four months.
One helpfull reply here
For spark to occur, you first need 12 VDC power to the circuit board at the water heater. This power arrives at the circuit board after it flows through the part labeled Thermostat. The Thermostat is attached to the water tank and you can see it when you open your access door. Check for 12 VDC on both connectors of the thermostat. You are checking with one probe on the connector and one probe to a good ground using the DC volts scale on your meter.
A Suburban has two sets of Thermostats and ECO switches. The switch set on the left is for the electric heating element and the set on the right is for the LP gas heating system.
On the Suburban water heater, 12 VDC first flows through the ECO switch and then the Thermostat. If you have power at the Thermostat, you will have power at the ECO switch. (The ECO switch is the over temperature protection switch and some have a reset button on the top. It is small so look carefully.)
12 VDC power then goes to the circuit board on both models. Some circuit boards have a small 2 amp fuse in the top left corner of the circuit board. If you have one, pull it out and check it. This might be your problem.
On both the Suburban and Atwood, three things happen next.
1. Power is sent to the gas valve. On the Atwood, the 12 VDC goes through the ECO switch before it gets to the gas valve. So check the ECO switch for 12 VDC on both sides of the ECO switch if you have an Atwood. Also check to see if your ECO has a reset button that has tripped. The ECO trips at about 180 degrees F. The ones without the button reset automatically.
2. Power is sent from the circuit board to the igniter electrode assembly. As you said, you can hear it spark and see it spark if it's not too sunny.
Clean the tip of the electrode assembly by lightly sanding. The gap is 1/8 inch. You can use a 1/8 inch drill bit for a gauge. Is the wire from the electrode to the circuit board hooked up?
Pull the flat plastic wire connector off the circuit board and reconnect it three times. Do the same thing with the ignition wire connector at the circuit board. This will clean the contacts. Getting the ignition wire connector back on is hard so make sure it goes back on properly. This is very important.
3. A flame sense signal is generated and sent back to the circuit board through the igniter electrode wire. Don't worry about this since you don't have a spark yet.
Let me know what you find and I can help some more. .
thats really some good advice there. I would start with the basics.
one of the basics with those valves is to give it a good love tap(s) with a screwdriver or some sort.
if your not getting any spark follow that one as well.
lets us know
2002 Gulf Stream Ultra Supreme-Demco Kaddy SS Toader Camry
2 peeps 2 poops and lots bbq!
No Fuss Flush
Ever stop to think, and forget to start again?
I feel like I'm diagonally parked in a parallel universe.
I was lucky and quickly found the reason mine wouldn't heat up, gas or electric, was a couple month old Tstat that went bad. I just pulled the wires off and connected them, it fired right up.
Hot in the desert isn't it? I suspect one of the limit switches was sitting in the sun and may have opened/turned off. You can jump these switches to determine which one is bad. Either use a short piece of wire to jump across the terminals, or carefully unplug the 2 wire and hold them together. Careful unplugging wires, these switches pull apart easy, probably made in china. Voltage is only 12 volts so there is no shock hazard unless you touch the spark electrode, just be careful not to touch ground with any of the wires. Tapping on these limits might get it to work also. Do not leave the switch jumped out, this is a safety control and needs to be in the circuit. Jumping out a safety control is for diagnostics only. If it is the thermostat or high limit switch I would not be to concerned about there being a problem that caused this switch to fail, I would blame it on age, conditions, and quality. If it is a flame roll out switch/fuseable link that failed you will need to clean out the burner and heat exchanger, and adjust your burner. Good luck let us know what ya find.
2003 Jayco 308fbs eagle 33' tt, towed by a 2003 Ram 3500 slt, quad cab dually, cummins diesel ho, trailer towing package, with 6 speed manual. Hauls better 1/2, 3 kids, myself, and a 2003 ez go clays car.. I have added so far, neon lights, clearance lights, back up lights, black light, lift kit, mud tires, and everything necessary to make the golf cart street legal. It's now ready to spend the winter in the garage for more mods. More neon, strobe lights, alarm, a pa system, maintance, and whatever else that comes along. This golf cart does wheelies and travels thru 7 inches of mud when need be. Two honda eu2000i gens twinned to supply the electrical power. Latest addition an 04 Honda Goldwing. [url]http://www.hometown.aol.com/rvnagain/myhomepage/profile.html[url]
Given that the contacts are clean, get (from Atwood site, I think) a wiring diagram. If you find that the inputs to the control module are there and the output is not, go to RG-electrospec.com. They are very accurate and will sell you a Dinosoar board only if you need one for an excellent price - and get the cover while you're at it. Notice that the control module is mounted directly over the burner flame - I suspect this is why the modules go bad, but - that's only my humble opinion.
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