hilifeguy
Michigan
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Joined: 07/21/2008
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Hi all. Well DW and I just finished our first summer of camping(really only 2 trips we just got our trailer in late August) and unfortunetly I am about to winterize. It all seems pretty straight forward, and relatively easy with the built in siphon hose. My question concerns more about the outside. What are the important things to do, tires? roof? do i need to remove my propane tanks? Obviously the battery, but what other less obvious things should I do? It will be stored along side the house on a pad, so is getting the tires off the cement important? Thanks for the help.
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kknowlton
Wisconsin Border Country, IL
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Joined: 05/27/2005
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We've never put anything under our tires for winter - granted, we're parked on gravel. In your climate - especially if you're in western MI or the UP - you may want to consider covering it to help protect from leaks from the snow sitting on it. We bought an ADCO cover from Camping World and have been quite pleased with it. With MaxxAir vent covers, we've been able to leave the vents open in the winter, plus cracked a window open, under the cover & had no rain/snow get in, but it kept the air from getting stale in the trailer.
You don't need to remove the LP tanks. Cover the tires (whether or not you cover the camper). Hopefully you have already dumped all the waste tanks, and of course make sure to dump the freshwater tank, but don't leave the drain open all winter - leave it open for a while (drive around with it open if you want to, as it will bounce out some of the water in the bottom of the tank and in the pipes), then close it before you're ready to really put the camper "to bed." Taking off the battery is definitely a good idea; we leave ours inside over the winter, hooked up to a maintenance charger.
Remove all paper products, food, towels, bedding & other soft materials (clothes etc.) that you may have stored in the camper during the season - anything that may attract critters such as bugs or mice. We usually cover over the vents for the fridge, HWH, heater, etc. to help discourage bugs from getting in there & nesting.
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Kirk
Livingston, Texas.
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Joined: 06/17/2001
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We have owned RVs for more than 30 years and the first 15 of those were in Wyoming so we have had to deal with winter. For your tires, you should keep them at the proper inflation pressure, or put jacks under the axle to take most of the weight from them. A low tire, sitting for long periods will develop the tendency to blow out very early.
Another thing that will help your tires is to place something between them and the concrete that will serve as a moisture barrier. Most tire manufacturers suggest this. A good thing to use is one of the plastic cutting boards to just park the wheels on. That will raise it just enough to drain well and prevent the moisture that concrete absorbs from constant contact with the tires. In addition, some type of sun cover can help.
I will agree that you do not need to remove the propane tanks, but you should make sure that you close the tank valves. The battery does not need to be removed but you should lift the negative battery cable from the post. Make sure that the electrolyte levels are proper and then charge it fully with a good, multi-stage battery charger. It should then be fine for the winter, although it would not harm it to be topped off every month or so. If you do remove it, you still want to check the levels and make sure that it is charged. And be sure when you put it back that it is installed with the proper polarity. If you have one of the battery minder type products, that can help to keep the battery in proper condition.
Remove anything that could freeze from your cabinets. It is very easy to forget some cleaning product, or can of soup and they will freeze and break, making a mess. Leave the refrigerator/freezer doors propped open to allow air to circulate through it.
Bug screens are a good idea on your furnace, water heater and refrigerator. The after market has stainless steel ones that can be installed permanently. For some reason bugs seem to be attracted to propane burners.
We keep mouse bait blocks in all of our storage bays, under the cabinet drawers and in any dead space as well as under the bed. In fact, we still do that part even now that we live in our RV full-time. Those bait blocks cause the mice to dehydrate and die and they do not leave an odor.
We also used to place both ant and roach traps in those same areas. Some people suggest moth balls, but we found that in order to get enough of them to have any effect, the odor is nearly impossible to get out in the spring.
When you winterize the water system, do not forget to pour about a cup or two of RV antifreeze into each sink drain to protect the traps, and leave both tank drains open. For the prevention of anything entering into the tanks, put the drain caps back into place. For the fresh water tank, drain it to where everything you can get out is clear, then don't worry if there is just a little left since a little water in the bottom freezing will harm nothing.
I would lubricate things in general before it goes to bed and treat things like the seals for your slides to make sure they stay in good condition.
Good travelin! ........Kirk
sent via Starband, Manual Flyer dish
www.adventure.1tree.net
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NanciL
Bakersville, NC, USA
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Joined: 03/24/2003
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One other thing;
Pour a capfull of the pink stuff into your outside city water connection, or you well have a broken check valve in the spring.
Learned the hard way!
Jack L
Jack & Nanci
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LarryJM
NoVa
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Joined: 11/09/2007
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NanciL wrote:One other thing;
Pour a capfull of the pink stuff into your outside city water connection, or you well have a broken check valve in the spring.
Learned the hard way!
Jack L
Or do the blow out and antifreeze route.
I don't dump extra antifreeze down the sinks just run a good cup or two thru the faucet. Don't forget the throne or the outside shower if you have one.
My sits along side my house on gravel so nothing under the tires, but you could bet some lynx level blocks and put the tires up on one layer of them to get them off the concrete.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS
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dgo1369
Georgetown, TX, US
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Joined: 11/22/2003
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Winterize???!!!! I don't need to stinkin' winterize!!! OK, I couldn't resist. Karen and Kirk gave you very complete comprehensive instructions. Follow them and you can't go wrong. Failing that, move south and not have that problem any more!
Dennis Osha
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Hornet28BHDS
Parker, PA
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Joined: 01/29/2007
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Install some vent covers (if you don't have them yet). They really help air circulate over the winter. We put kitty litter and charcoal in the TT to help keep the moisture down. Covering the tires never hurt either!
2006 Hornet 28BHDS-Bunk House, Dual Slides
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 HD
5.7L Hemi, Factory Towing Package
Reese Brake Controller, WD Hitch and Sway Bar
Life is short, why not spend it in an RV!
SPRING HAS SPRUNG!
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murffdog
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Joined: 04/11/2003
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Put "winterizing" in search box at top left, your will find 1,990 posts for your reading pleasure.
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UpNorthFam
Up North
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Joined: 06/14/2008
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I would definitely not leave the battery in over the winter, even if you are planning to charge it every so often. Most battery manufacturers will tell you to store them inside. Plus, put them in your basement with the charger nearby so you can charge them over the winter. I did this with batteries for my boat and RV and they have lasted over 10 years. When I did leave the battery outside one winter, it died and couldn't be recharged. Plus, you don't want to have to do the task of charging outside when you can do it in the warmth of your basement.
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2oldman
WA
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Joined: 04/15/2001
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murffdog wrote:Put "winterizing" in search box at top left, your will find 1,990 posts for your reading pleasure. There's also a Winterizing FAQ in the Beginning forum.. section 23.
This all gets discussed over and over just like digital broacast TV. Oh well..
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