Learjet
Louisiana
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pnichols wrote:"Optima’s web site recomends “Blue Top” for RV’s."
Uuummmm ... Optima says their yellow top is their "deep cycle" battery. I use the yellows for everything, including as starting batteries.
Blue can be a RV deep cycle battery, Yellow is Dual purpose...Here is their website info.....
Then it goes on to say this "
The OPTIMA BlueTop battery is available as a starting or deep cycle battery for marine and RV applications and has all the valuable characteristics of its two brothers - the RedTop and YellowTop. It's perfect for boats with electric trolling motors, onboard electronics or stereo systems and RV's with “creature comforts” that tend to drain batteries quickly. The BlueTop is the battery for those who simply need a sure-starting, strong cranking, maintenance-free power source. "
2006 Nissan Titan CC with tow package
2006 KZ Frontier 2303P-F
Equal-i-zer
Prodigy brake controller
Yamaha EF2600c Tri-Fuel Gen.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Pnichols.. I don't think his "Keep replacing them" had to do with any lack of quality on the part of Optima.
One problem I see is that the O/P believes they have more amp-hours per cubic foot than Lifeline
A discharge cycle that would take a lifeline down to say a nice safe 55 percent would be a DEEP discharge cycle for an Optima. That may be his problem
Or his Prosine may be set up wrong.. That will do it too.. The default on the prosine is Flooded Wet Cell, you have to re-configure for Optima or AGM or .. Well.. Anything other than flooded wet cell.
In fact to do AGM properly you have to custom program,, but that's another story
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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pnichols
Santa Cruz Mountains
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"In fact to do AGM properly you have to custom program,, but that's another story."
John, the proper charging program can indeed vary by individual AGM battery brand/design.
For instance, my AGM batteries say on their label to float them at 13.5V to 13.8V and for cycle service ("boost charging voltages") to use 14.4V to 14.8V, the lower float/boost values probably being for hot weather and the higher float/boost values being for cold weather.
In fact, page 7 of this manual for the Sterling battery-to-battery charger (for excellent 50A controlled multi-stage charging from your chassis alternator while on the road) even talks about a US AGM charging spec and a European AGM charging spec:
http://www.sterling-power.com/images/downloads/B2B_instructions_2007.pdf
* This post was
edited 10/05/08 10:24pm by pnichols *
Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca 324V Spirit
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Redsled2006
Vacaville, CA
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Just to clear things up, I did set up my prosine to AGM batteries. (Just like the manual said to)
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smkettner
Southern California
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Redsled2006 wrote:Just to clear things up, I did set up my prosine to AGM batteries. (Just like the manual said to)
Maybe we are splitting hairs but I thought you said float was 13.8? I see on chart C-2 of the Xantrex manual Optima calls for algorithm 19 and should float at 13.5 volts. Even 13.5 might be high in hot weather although it should adjust down if you have the temperature compensation connected.
I would tend to hit the low end of the spec at 13.2 at 80F.
This is all a lot of speculation and what would really answer the question is to know if the batteries are dried out or if they are sulfated.
I would try an equilization charge before replacing the optimas. Nothing to lose.
Could just be bad batteries.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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pnichols, I fully agree.. In fact you pointed out why you have to do a custom program for AGM's Xantrex has several AGM profiles, including one for Optima
But none of them allow for equalization cause it is so rarely needed with AGM's
However Lifeline does suggest Equalization on rare occasions.. So I had to program my Xantrex custom to get the proper bulk, absorption, float and EQUALIZE settings.. Since the pre-sets did not include the 4th stage at all.
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pnichols
Santa Cruz Mountains
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"However Lifeline does suggest Equalization on rare occasions."
Yeah ... I've read this on the Lifeline site links.
I REALLY don't understand this. How can a solid AGM battery get it's plate and/or acid chemistry somehow "redistributed or shifted" by a voltage field?? (Liquid acid batteries I can understand this, however.)
I'd sure like to talk to a Lifeline engineer on actually what they think an equalization step accomplishes.
This begs another question: It seems like either all AGM batteries need equalization or Lifeline batteries really don't need equalization. If Lifelines do ... and others don't ... what is it in the Lifeline construction or chemistry that makes them different than other AGM batteries?
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Hurricaner
Hurricane Utah
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From the Optima site.
Quote:Float Charge:
13.2 to 13.8 volts, 1 amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
All limits must be strictly adhered to.
Note# in hot weather this is a huge problem for AGMs, they cannot be floated at 13.8 volts.
Sam
Sam & Kari
Hurricane, Utah
2004 34' Damon Challenger 315
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smkettner
Southern California
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IMO equilization on an AGM is used as a way to desulfate the battery.
Lifeline says to equalize when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss.
Seems like a last ditch effort to see if they bounce back or need replacement.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Smkettner has given you a very good answer... However
You are mistaken when you say "Solid AGM" I'ts not solid, it is a liquid which has been absorbed into a fiberglass mat. and thus.. Thigns happen.
You also do not understand the meaning of equalization (Which as to do with minute differences in the different cells) You did a good job on stratification (Which I do not think would be a problem with AGM's) though.
Equalization on flooded wet cells addresses all 3 problems, Sulfation, stratification and equalization. On AGM's you only have the first and last. Stratification is far more common and that's why you need to do flooded wet often and agm rarley.
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