rockhillmanor
On the Road
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Apparently the emergency brake was left on while it was driven at last place I had repairs done when they took it for a test drive.
I KNOW I have never driven it with the emeregency brake on did some damage to the calipers/rotor and it didn't show signs until I hit the road and did some long term driving when it started getting hot and slowing the MH down. That all said and done with, it happened, and now I need some advice!
I am now in a small podunk town and all that is available is small repair shops and I am not sure how well versed they are with this type of repair and it seems they aren't either!
The repair shop where I am at think that both axles have to be removed to repair this.
The first over inspection said they saw blue steel and the caliper is red showing it was exposed to extreme heat conditions and the bars are egg shaped. They figure the hotter it got that the damaged piston was most likely inching out causing the friction.
Symptoms where inability to get up the hills after it got warm and the clencher was when I let it freewheel down the hills being pushed by a toad and it almost came to a stop.
I guess my question is, is taking off both rear axles the 'only' way to replace the emergency brake assembly?
* This post was
edited 10/11/08 12:34pm by rockhillmanor *
31 ft Four Winds
Chevy Tracker 4x4 Blue Ox
We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
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midnightsadie
ohio
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what chassis are you refering too, just my.02cents worth , I:VE done lot of brakes on cars ,pickups, , can;t figure out why .you;d have to pull a axle ,think I have it towed to a better shop. I check with my road service,also insurance might cover the repairs ,
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Cool Mike
Mendocino. Calif.
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If that Four Winds of yours in on a Ford E-450 as I suspect, the parking brake in mounted on the back end of the transmission, and its an hydraulic unit activated by pulling on a cable, locking the drive shaft. They are adjustable if there just not holding. But I understand there's not much you can do with them if they have a leak except replace them. And there not cheap, so hope it can be adjusted, its vary easy, I did my own in 10 min.
There is no Emergency break, it has 4 wheel anti lock, disk breaks with hydraulic over hydraulic boost system, not vacuum. And your problem is not in the parking brake system.
You could have a problem with the hydro-Boost system, or the master cylinder/anti lock break or one wheel caliper. If both rear wheels rotors are damaged, you have a major problem involving the system mentioned above, and the damaged it caused to the rear rotors and calipers of both rear wheels.
* This post was
edited 10/04/08 09:27pm by Cool Mike *
2001 27' Four Winds Class-C E-450 V-10.
Buick Park Ave Ultra, Ford Ranger PU, JD 500 backhoe.
1941 Farm All "A"
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rockhillmanor
On the Road
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Cool Mike wrote:If that Four Winds of yours in on a Ford E-450 as I suspect, the parking brake in mounted on the back end of the transmission, and its an hydraulic unit activated by pulling on a cable, locking the drive shaft. They are adjustable if there just not holding. But I understand there's not much you can do with them if they have a leak except replace them. And there not cheap, so hope it can be adjusted, its vary easy, I did my own in 10 min.
There is no Emergency break, it has 4 wheel anti lock, disk breaks with hydraulic over hydraulic boost system, not vacuum. And your problem is not in the parking brake system.
You could have a problem with the hydro-Boost system, or the master cylinder/anti lock break or one wheel caliper. If both rear wheels rotors are damaged, you have a major problem involving the system mentioned above, and the damaged it caused to the rear rotors and calipers of both rear wheels.
Thank you very much! that explains further what they tried to tell me. They found the rear rotors to be damaged and they suspect the calipers to be damaged also. They strongly suggested not to turn them but to replace them and the piston.
Albeit they conveyed that the emergency brake is 'separate' your description shows it is not.
I have 'never' liked any of the bleeding of the brakes I have had done after I installed new brakes. Every shop that I had the bleeding redone at presented a different feel of braking which I never was comfortable with. Thanks for your response.
Going to limp her down to major heavy truck Ford dealership in Tennessee. Have to head out today to beat rush hour which really heats the brakes up and the road closings that lead to the dealership because of the pres debate being held there.
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ron.dittmer
Near Chicago
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Not sure if this was clarified above.
Assuming your chassis is an E350/E450, made before 2008, the parking brake mechanism is not at the rear wheels as is typical. It is a separate unit, mounted along the drive shaft, just behind the transmission. CORRECTION: SEE MY NEXT POST
If the parking brake was left on, the rear rotors and calipers would NOT be affected. There is NO relationship between the two. You have two independant problems going on.
Don't be so quick to replace the parking brake. If it still works, it's good.
WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your rotors is one hunk of metal with the wheel bearing hub. You have to remove a cotter pin, etc, to get the rotors off. My point here is, if the rotors got so very hot that there was damage to the calipers, then you need to be VERY concerned for the wheel bearings too. Because the rotor is the same hunk of metal with the hub, extreme heat will transfer more effectively from the rotor to the bearings. The wheel bearing grease might have gotton heated up to the point that it liquified, draining off the bearings, puddling elsewhere within the hub. BE SURE to get the inner and outer bearings examined. If there is any discoloration on them, REPLACE THEM too.
* This post was
edited 10/06/08 10:39am by ron.dittmer *
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Dusty R
Charlotte Michigan 48813
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I have an 2002 E-350. The parking break is part of the rear breaks. I looked after reading on here a while back about the problems with the parking break at the out-put of the transmission.
Dusty
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Cool Mike
Mendocino. Calif.
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Dusty, you have an E-350, the OP has an E-450, and a difference between the two is, all E-450 from 2000 on have the parking brake as a separate unit that locks up the drive shaft and its mounted at the rear of the transmission. And your E-350 has the parking break that is a mechanical device that operates the rear break shoes, the E-450s have disk breaks on the rear, so they had to move the parking break to the drive shaft, there are no shoes to operate.
Some people still call them emergency brakes, but technically there parking brakes, ever since the use of twin master cylinders, one for the front and the other for the rear.
The OPs problem is all up front, either in the master cylinder, anti lock breaks or hydro-boost/power steering pump. And this problem is what caused both rear breaks to drag or lock up and damage the rear rotors, pads, calipers, seals and bearings.
All these parts are damaged now, but only because of a problem from up front, that kept the rear breaks on.
I dont know how far it is to the Ford truck repair shop, but you should consider a tow truck, your breaks may not work well enough for the trip.
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Cool Mike
Mendocino. Calif.
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Ill just mention this for all. Some of our Motor Homes do a lot of sitting, and the Ford E-450s have 4 wheel disk breaks, as do others. And when not driven the roters will rust quickly, and lack of use can also cause the calipers to stick on, and cause big problems if not caught quickly.
When I first drive mine after sitting for a while, on that first mile I will feel the breaks and steering, looking for any pull left or right, and how easy does it coast. This is to make sure all four wheels breaks are releasing, and not dragging. Then after 4 or 5 miles, ill stop and feel all 4 wheel hubs for an even temperature, if there all relatively cool and equal, your good to go.
The breaks are a big reason its good to drive your MH often, and to look for problems when you do.
Mike.
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rockhillmanor
On the Road
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Cool Mike wrote:.....I dont know how far it is to the Ford truck repair shop, but you should consider a tow truck, your breaks may not work well enough for the trip.
Right now there is drag and it becomes worse when they get heated up. Stopped at that point to find local shop. Stayed there 2 days to try and find a shop with no luck.
Found a heavy truck 'only' Ford dealership in Nashville. Drove the distance towards there and staying in a KOA overnight to cool down. And then early morning heading out to the truck dealership which is 10 miles.
Thanks for all the info. Always good to know as much as you can BEFORE walking into these repair shops. Definitely a much different experience when on the road full time and the mechanic you trust is waaay back home and no one either doesn't want to work on a MH or is not equipped to work on one.:
I'll surely post all what is found today so as to help another RV'er who might have the same problem. Sounds like the bill is going to have a comma in the price.
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ron.dittmer
Near Chicago
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Dusty R wrote:I have an 2002 E-350. The parking break is part of the rear breaks. I looked after reading on here a while back about the problems with the parking break at the out-put of the transmission.
Dusty Last night I got under my 2007 E350 chassis RV last night and was surprised to see I too do not have the drive shaft parking brake. I have rear disk brakes with the parking brake at the rear wheels.
I got documentaion direct from Ford's website stating I have the driveshaft parking brake, but NO, I don't. The documentaion I have is for the 2007 E-Series Van/Cutaway/Stripped Chassis. In fine print at the bottom of each page, it states 2007 E-Series - Commercial. Maybe the literature does not cover the cutaway chassis for motorhome applications.
I hate stating facts that are dead wrong. Sorry about that.
About the parking brake in-general. I would not set it during long term storage if on level ground. As others mentioned above, the P-brake tends to stick. With rust forming on the rotors, it amplies the issue.
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