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2fast4u450

Oregon

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Posted: 10/05/08 01:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello, Long time lurker, first time poster.
My suburban furnace has a wireless remote instead of a wall mounted thermostat. When I call for heat, the fan will come on and run for a minute or so, then shut down. I have good supply of propane and power. I am thinking sail switch or control board but, where is the sail switch? Do I need to remove the furnace from the unit? If the board is bad, where can I get one for a reasonable cost?

Thanks
Dan

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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA USA

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Posted: 10/05/08 01:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What model of Suburban furnace?
Sail switch is a micro switch normal mounted to the fan housing with a small arm sticking into combustion fan area. You should not have to remove to access sail switch or circuit board, depending on model.
Dinosaurelectronics.com for best board. They are located in Depoe Bay, Or and have many outlets. Vary in price depending on model.


Bud
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Harvard

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Posted: 10/05/08 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure you are getting enough 12VDC power level AND there is actually gas to the furnace. Do not assume because all other gas appliances are OK that gas is getting to the furnace. Ie, the copper feed line to the furnace could be blocked with oil if it (the copper line) happens to be lowest point in propane supply system.

2fast4u450

Oregon

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Posted: 10/05/08 03:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I cannot locate a model # on the unit, that was actually a question I meant to ask.......

lhuff

Marietta, GA USA

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Posted: 10/05/08 03:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remove the outside cover. You should be able to find a model number.

Listen carefully to see if the furnace lights for 5-6 seconds and then goes out or doesn't light at all. If it lights and goes out, that's classical flame sensor, but if it doesn't light, look at the board first, ignitor (which is probably the same device as the flame sensor) and sail switch third. Your RV dealer should be able to test the board (sometimes for free). You shouldn't have to remove the furnace to fix it.

nbounder

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Posted: 10/05/08 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good ol' Suburban - their furnaces LOVE to get fixed. The newer units will try to ignite 3X then lock out. Mine, an oldie, ignits for 2-3 seconds then shuts down. Either the flame sensor is way out of place, or the control board has bit the dust. Bein' as I have not taken it out and made love to it for 4 months, I need to do so. It will then work for 6-10 weeks, and unceremoniously*krap*out again.

2fast4u450

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Posted: 10/07/08 08:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello again

The unit is a sf-25F It will run the fan but I cannot hear it try to fire. Sail switch is good. Circuit board?? What's the odds or the gas valve being shot and not opening??

thanks
Dan

nbounder

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Posted: 10/07/08 08:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Odds on bad gas valve are low. It should try to fire at about the same time the gas valve opens. If you do not hear the spark, then the pre conditions arent being met. Most commonly the sail switch is dirty. Try spraying some form of cleaner into the switch and exercizing it. You might try 'ohming' it out while fliping it back & forth. Those stupid switches are not sealed and gather dirt over time. Next more common failure would be dirty contacts at the control module,or (yeech) a new Dinosaur board.

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