JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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LAdams wrote:I'd still check into the axles John... The wear pattern we are seeing really looks like an axle(s) are out of camber...
I have some pretty sharp turns as well when docking my TT and the wear pattern from scrubbing the tires does not look like that - it's more of a cupping pattern along the outter portion of the tire tread... If I get a chance today I will snap some photos so you can see what I am talking about...
Les
BTW - I LOVE that jack with the scale built in - much better than my ShurLine scale...
Les, please send/post pics. I agree an axle may be out. It should show up with the 4-foot level check.
The Carver instrument press. A left over from work. Here you can go buy one Carver Yes if you have a TT tongue that is up to 24,000# you can measure it.... I did use to measure a buddy's 2500# pin weight. I use the Sherline on low numbers like 0 to 1800# more accurate.
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we where camping!)
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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advntrs wrote:In looking closely at your pictures, it looks as if none of your tires have been balanced.
That should be one of the things on your list to do. Most of the RV wheels are made "out of country", and very little thought is given to proper weight balance in the manufacturing process.
I agree on balancing. When I put new tires on they will be balanced. Why TT makers do not balance them is beyond me.
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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Bonefish wrote:You need to check this alignment. It is critical to tire wear and towing.
Bonefish
Bonefish, Thanks!
I will check but do you know a tolerance of what is good or bad?
John
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dougsee3
Calgary AB
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I have checked rear independent suspension for camber with two deep sockets and a 2 foot level to get a base line to replace struts.
Hold level in hands and deep sockets in fingers check the camber and compare bubble with the tires with no wear. Do this as trailer is sitting with load that is in the trailer. The trailer does not have to be level as you are only looking for a possible difference at this point.
2005 2500 Avalanche
2004 30' Terry Quantum 290FLS
Equal-i-zer,Prodigy
Calgary Alberta
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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dougsee3 wrote:I have checked rear independent suspension for camber with two deep sockets and a 2 foot level to get a base line to replace struts.
Hold level in hands and deep sockets in fingers check the camber and compare bubble with the tires with no wear. Do this as trailer is sitting with load that is in the trailer. The trailer does not have to be level as you are only looking for a possible difference at this point.
Thanks Doug. Will try.
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Earl E
Klamath Falls, Oregon
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You can spend a lot of money on working on the problem on just rotate your tires every year. My trusted tire dealer, who really does know just about everything there is to know, says this is typical on trailers. And four years is close to max. You should get new tires every five years anyway. If they are the original tires, they are cheapies anyway. So just start over.
Can't say about welds. Know nothing about that. Just have your tire dealer check it while you are getting new tires--that is if the guy checking it really does know anything about that and isn't just a minimum wage person hired to change tires.
2008 Keystone Springdale 252
2004 Chevy Silverado, 5.3 L V8
Prodigy brake control and Equal-i-zer
Retired and traveling all we can!
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LAdams
Northern Illinois
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Here ya go John - sorry it took so long - been a bit busy with some other projects...
Pictures #1 & @2 are of the street side (port side) and will show tire scrubbing on the extreme left side of the tire - look particularly at the top of the tire and at the first large section of tread on the left side of the picture... You'll see the flat spots on the extreme left section of this part of the tread due to scrubbing...
Picture #3 is the curb side (starboard side) of the TT showing almost identical wear patterns on the tire... These tires have around 6000 miles on them give or take a few miles...
Tires are Goodyear Marathons - P225/75R15 LR D @ 65 PSI and TT weight is around #9400 give or take a few pounds depending on loading
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
2006 Nomad 3150 Double Slide (Bunkhouse)
Hensley Arrow
Jordan Ultima 2020
HUNTER THERMOSTAT INSTALL
** NEW ** blog.rv.net
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JIMNLIN
Big Cabin, OK
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as others say bent axle stubs or the axle itself at that end is bent will cause tire wear pattern as you show. No big deal for a big rig trailer shop to get your trailers axles back in alignment. BUT with the way the spring mounts are engineered to the main frame rail puts all the tires side scruffing stress on the welds. This type set up may not stay in alignment. Spring mounts or spring hangers that have a heavy plate welded to each side of the frame rails make a stronger system. I certainly would have plates added which will eliminate farther cracking issues in the area we see.
Balancing traier tires isn't necessary but if it makes the operator feel good it won't hurt. Several reasons the industry (not just RV's) doesn't balance tires. But thats another topic and doesn't fix your problem.
Jim
* This post was
edited 10/09/08 06:10am by JIMNLIN *
'03 2500 Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs
'97 Park Avanue 28' with two slides
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JBarca
Dublin, Ohio, USA
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LAdams wrote:Here ya go John - sorry it took so long - been a bit busy with some other projects...
Pictures #1 & @2 are of the street side (port side) and will show tire scrubbing on the extreme left side of the tire - look particularly at the top of the tire and at the first large section of tread on the left side of the picture... You'll see the flat spots on the extreme left section of this part of the tread due to scrubbing...
Picture #3 is the curb side (starboard side) of the TT showing almost identical wear patterns on the tire... These tires have around 6000 miles on them give or take a few miles...
Tires are Goodyear Marathons - P225/75R15 LR D @ 65 PSI and TT weight is around #9400 give or take a few pounds depending on loading
Les
Les
Thank you for posting those. They help. I did some checking this past weekend, have to get pic's and data uploaded and will share.
After seeing the numbers, I really think I have at least 1 bent axle by the end of it on the left rear, the worst one. And possibly a camber problem on the right front or a combo of issues.
The next issue is figuring out what is spec for a single tire tandem axle TT. I can find a quite a lot on semi trailers, they have duals, built in adjusting features and are made a whole lot stronger. But these axles setups are a lot weaker and you have to start bending axle tubes to align.
My biggest conern is, well if I actually have a bent axle end, how did it bend and once fixed what prevents it from again bending??? Do I bite the bullet and correct with Dexters?
My older 7,000# GVWR TT in the shed has done this same driveway for 3 years doing 180 turns and the tires look just like yours. However they are Dexter’s, not Al Ko’s. Edges have some radius wear but tread wearing even across. This new TT, I have turned only a few times and now have this. Cheap axles or they where a marginal problem from the factory and I aggravated it and now have a problem??
Stay tuned for more to come
Thanks
John
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JIMNLIN
Big Cabin, OK
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we have no assurances that a axle stub or the axle itself cannot get bent now or after a fix or with the new Dexters or any other type/brand. One thing that can help on your sharp turn around is wet the pavement down. Lets the tires side slip easier. .......Jim
Jim
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