JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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sounds like this may help
7300 series trouble shooting flow chart
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Sorry, Batts is short for battery(s). 
The 12V portion of your converter isn't working. If your certain the GFCI isn't tripped and all of the other outlets in and outside of your trailer still work then most likely your converter has gone bad but there's always the chance a wire or something else has simply come loose. You battery will discharge as you use 12v items (lights, pump, heat, etc) so use them sparingly!
I would still be happy to take a look if your in my area.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4 Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
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JJBIRISH
Butler, PA, USA
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Joined: 10/06/2002
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traveltrailergirl wrote:Ok, I just hooked up my charged battery and yes now the 12V works...what is a batts? I don't have the ability to monitor the voltage (YET).
BTW welcome to the forums...
it took something like this to get you to post...
how old is the trailer the converter has a two year warranty...
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YC 1
Yuba City Calif.
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Joined: 01/11/2005
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If you can safely get to the power cord that supplies the coverter, see if it has a standard AC type plug on it. If it does, run an extension cord to it and see if it works then. This will bypass any gfi or circuit breaker problems.
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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With the battery connected you will have a day before is starts to go dead unless the converter is working. You need to have a way to check the voltage coming out of the converter. If the voltage is less than 13.4 you need to verify it is powered on. You probably just need a new converter.
I recommend a Xantrex XADC-40
Easy conversion to Xantrex
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 Lariat Offroad 4x4 Tow Package 4.10 Truetrac
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traveltrailergirl
Seattle, WA
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Its going to take me awhile to figure out how to check the DC output between the blue wire and the D negative terminal on the fuse block...I have never been one who had the patience to understand electrical stuff...guess I'm learning the hard way!
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traveltrailergirl
Seattle, WA
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Oh and the trailer is a 2004...don't think the warranty is going to help...
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LAdams
Northern Illinois
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If you want a simple way to do it, just hook a 12 volt automotive trouble light across the terminals... If the light is bright, you have 12+ volts - if no light, the converter DC section is shot and needs work or replacement...
According to the link JJ provided, you are already on step 3 after checking the 30A fuses... If the converter has good AC input voltage, chances are the rectifier/filtering section has issues and needs work or replacement...
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
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n8wgb
OH
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Joined: 09/29/2003
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Quote:Its going to take me awhile to figure out how to check the DC output between the blue wire and the D negative terminal on the fuse block...
Using a test meter, set it to DC voltage and touch the positive lead to the blue wire post in between the polarity fuses and the negative lead to the D negative terminal. If the converter is working, you should get a reading. If it's not working, the reading will be 0.
Or, do as LAdams said. It will accomplish the same thing!(we were both answering at the same time...)
Chris
1998 Aerolite 21RDB
EQUALIZER hitch
2003 Ford Sport Trac, 4.0L, V6 OHC, 4:10 rear 4x4, auto
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marc71
South East VA
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Unhook the battery... With shore power plugged in, test to see if you are getting 12v to the leads that go to the battery, if not your inverter is bad or there is a bad fuse somewhere...
2002 Toyota Tundra SR5 TRD 4x4
2003 Keystone Springdale 268 BHL-GL
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