427435
Rochester, Mn
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Joined: 11/12/2005
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The OBD II connector is attached to the right side of the steering column. It has a cap on it and can be hard to spot in the jungle of wires.
Replace the IAC----it's not that spendy and a known trouble point.
Mark
2000 Itasca Suncruiser 35U on a Ford chassis
2003 Ford Explorer toad with US Gear brakes,
ReadyBrute tow bar, and Demco base plate.
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Matthew_B
The boonies near Dallas, Oregon
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Joined: 08/18/2005
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ernie1 wrote:I also think it's the IAC. It could act up only periodically or fail totally. Mine drove me nuts. Get a new one and change it. .
It's pretty easy to change out and a common failure. The IAC is a solenoid that's controlled by the PCM (engine computer). If the solenoid is wide open, the engine will run at about 2400 RPM. The PCM pulses the solenoid with variable duty cycle to adjust idle. When the hood is open, you can hear a clicking and a cycling whistle - that's the IAC doing it's job.
ernie1 wrote:It's pretty easy and you'll notice an adjusting screw also on it too.
Don't ever mess with that screw. If you do, the PCM will have problems regulating the idle properly.
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ernestfortier
Palmdale, Calif.
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Joined: 01/11/2005
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I would say to read the OBD II before you buy anything. The OBD II will morre than likely tell you exactly what part is at fault. It could be something such as a one or two bad spark plugs or coils. If they had a idle adjusting screw on the unit that you could adjust and you did adjust it so you could drive it, what would you do if it started working again and now the idle was about 2000 RPM and you wer having a hard time stopping. Fix it right, it could be more expensive to jury rig it.
Ernie Fortier
99 Bounder 34V
2 honda 2K paralled (for economy)
5.5 Onan onboard
96 Geo Tracker 4x4 Auto. convertable
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hzmeyer
Detroit
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Joined: 10/12/2008
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Interesting comment about reading the OBD II before buying anything. After I figured out I could start it by slightly depressing the accelerator pedal, the CHECK ENGINE light went out. Shouldn't that be on if the IAC valve is bad? I still have the stalling issue and it still won't start in the normal mode but if the light is off, will the OBD tell me anything?
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427435
Rochester, Mn
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hzmeyer wrote:Interesting comment about reading the OBD II before buying anything. After I figured out I could start it by slightly depressing the accelerator pedal, the CHECK ENGINE light went out. Shouldn't that be on if the IAC valve is bad? I still have the stalling issue and it still won't start in the normal mode but if the light is off, will the OBD tell me anything?
It may. If you have ready access to an OBD II reader, by all means use it. I'll still bet it's the IAC valve----replacing it might even be consider routine maintenance (like a fuel filter or brakes).
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DIMDave
Sachse, TX
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Joined: 05/21/2007
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BIL's truck did the same thing. The throttle plate closes all the way when your foot is off (why it dies), then IAC can control idle speed (when A/T is in gear or A/C is on). You may find an idle stop screw on the throttle body and adj idle just enough to start with IAC disconnected. IAC replacement is 1 plug and 2 screws.
97 Sun-Lite Eagle RK
01 F250 CC SWB PSD
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T18skyguy
Eugene, OR
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Joined: 12/13/2004
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It's a common problem usually caused by a bad IAC. A new one from Ford is about $100 bucks. Also check the little rubber elbows around the IAC- they go bad with the heat and break open and ruin the idle too. I have heard of people cleaning a bad IAC and making it good again but I don't know the specifics.
Retired Anesthetist. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings.1996 Jayco C 22 foot with 460/Banks Powerpak/Bilsteins.Wife and daughter. Two cats which control my life. 1975 Ford F-250, 84 Coupe Deville, Thorp T18, tons of tools and tons of junk.
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