Shelbel
Minnesota
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Joined: 09/03/2008
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We recently purchased a '09 Roo 232 and have been able to take it out only one time . My question for you pros is: What kind/type of wheel chock is the best for the least amount of bounce/movement? And where do you get them? Right now we have the cheepy yellow triangular shaped chocks and I know I saw a picture on someone else's page or somewhere of some other kind of chock that looked like it might be better at minimizing bounce/movement .
I'd also like to know if putting the stablizer jacks on blocks helps minimize bounce/movement and help in the leveling? What does everyone use for helping to level the rig? Wood blocks under tires (in very unlevel site conditions or always)?
As much help as you can....This just isn't something I'm interested in figuring out completely by trial and error!
Shelbel
Ryan
3 sons (11,10,6) and a basset hound
2005 Ford Expedition
2009 Rockwood Roo 232
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chuck369
ms.
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Joined: 11/05/2007
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I CARRY A 2X10 ABOUT 4 FT LONG AND A COUPLE 4X4 BLOCKS AND PUT UNDER ONE END AND ROLL UP ON BOAD UNTIL LEVEL WORKS FOR ME
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bikendan
Napa, Cal.
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Joined: 11/21/2005
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triangular yellow wheel chocks are only good for keeping the tires from rolling.
you need a in-between chock to go with the stabilizers.
the best is Roto-chok. it's expensive but people love them.
Camco makes a plastic version that's sold at CW. a lot of people, including me, make our own versions out of 4x4 wood. mine cost me about $12 for two of them.
putting them in on both sides will eliminate almost all movement, with the stabs down.
Dan- Firefighter , Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur , Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever , 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LS, 2007 Rockwood Roo 23SS w/Equalizer and Prodigy, and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
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kknowlton
Wisconsin Border Country, IL
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Joined: 05/27/2005
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We have Bal (brand) chocks that fit between the wheels; you use a special wrench to tighten or loosen them. Much more secure than the plastic triangles, and they held our HTT nice & solid. Of course using the stabilizers and making sure they are snugged down again after you are set up can help reduce the bounce.
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mike_mn
Twin Cities, MN
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Joined: 02/19/2008
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See my signature for my favorites...In truth, I believe that the way you put down your stabs has more effect on movement than does the way you chock your HTT. Since the stabs on the roo are acutally rated for leveling, a half to 1 full turn after hitting a solid surface will cause nothing more than a more stable trailer. If you are on a soft surface, using a block of wood under each stab may be helpful. We have never had any problems with a moving or bouncy camper.
GMC Denali XL 6.0L-P3-Reese Dual Cam 800
09 Roo 23SS
Me,Wife,02F,04M,06F...and one more at the end of 08.
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PopBeavers
San Jose, CA
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Joined: 03/19/2005
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I have a single axle trailer, so I can not use rotochcoks.
I set a pair of small yellow plastic chocks in front of each tire. Then I pull the trailer into the chocks very tightly. DW sets a pair of chocks on the back of each wheel.
Before I unhitch, I put the truck in neutral and let it settle into the lull.
After I adopted this technique, the trailer is a lot more stable.
It is not possible to kick the chocks out unless you pull the trailer forward with the truck. I consider this to be a safety feature. No one can pull a joke and kick my chocks out when I am gone for the day.
Wayne in San Jose
TV1:2002 Chevy 1500HD 4wd Crew Cab,Valley Odyssey brake ctlr,McKesh mirrors
TV2:2008 GMC 2500HD long bed 4wd Crew Cab,GMC brake ctlr,GMC mirrors
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skipnchar
Topeka Kansas USA
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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There CERTAINLY are better chocks on the market than the yellow wedge but when used PROPERLY they do a pretty good job. Set chocks in front ot two wheels and pull 6" forward then set two more chocks behind the same two wheels then let the trailer find center on the blocks and it'll sit pretty darned still. THEN you set your stab jacks with just enough pressure on them to keep the corners from dropping. If you have a longer trailer it may take a third set in the center to take a little weight off of the suspension to avoid the "suspension bounce". With better chocks you get even better results but not by much. Most people who use the yellow wedges just drop them in the vacinity of the tire and give them a kick and it's a complete waste of time when used that way.
2004 F-150 HD 3,050 lb. payload
Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
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mbopp
Henrietta, NY, USA
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Joined: 06/20/2004
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Another vote for between the wheel chocks. I started out with yellow plastic wedges but built my own set of chocks. Much more stable.
Leveller boards are 2X6's but cut to shorter length so I can fit one set between the tandem wheels. They're bevel cut at 45 degrees and have a hole in them so I can stake them down. If I stack 2 or 3 together they tend to skid if they're not staked.
My stabs are the BAL single arm type. I have a theory that says chocks prevent front to back movement and single arm stabs are better at stopping the side to side movement. I re-mounted my stabs so the mounting axis is parallel to the trailer axles. If they are mounted 90 degrees to that there is too much side to side wobble to be useful. And I'll put blocks under then so that the final arm angle is 45 degrees or so when they're down. My theory only - YMMV.
"A bad day of camping is better than a good day at work."
'04 GMC Envoy & '05 Travel Star 21SSO
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llowllms
Crawford, Tn. USA
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Joined: 11/26/2003
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Made mine from 4x4"s and 1/2" allthread. Cost me about ten dollars for the allthread, washers, and wing nuts.
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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I use Lynx Leveler blockis for leveling.
Rotochoks are best chocks IMO.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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