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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Tire condition Examples
Just thought some might find these two shots interesting. You know how you have been told not to spin your tires if stuck on ice or mud. In a car or pickup with rear wheel drive, it is not to difficult to see over 140 mph on a rear wheel. If one side is stationary the one spinning is twice the speedometer reading.
snip....
This should also be a wake up call to those who run their ST tires
above their rated speed rating...of 65MPH
There are way too many who advise to 'go for it', as they 'have been
doing so for decades with no problems' after a repair is done...or that
they run their ST tires above 65MPH.
On that note, when a tire has been punctured and repaired, it no longer
has the same speed rating that is molded into it's sidewall. Assume it
now has no speed rating.
Not saying they will instantly fail when run above their ratings. Just
that they will sooner and even sooner as the differential above
the ratings gets larger. Then toss in a bit of under inflation and it
gets worse. Those types of folks lucky that guys like Tireman9 designed
in so much margin...in engineering/material/production/etc science.
When I worked as a tire monkey paying my way through college. Had too
many owners of exotics refuse to buy new tires and accused me and the
shop of trying to pad the bill when we told them their VR (that was
the highest at that time) were no longer rated for +140MPH.
The owner just told me to do what the customer wanted and to make sure
to 'WRITE' on their receipt that the repair was done and "HAD ADVISED" the
customer of the speed issue.
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BenK
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03/20/10 11:14am |
Tech Issues
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RE: WD Adjustments
If you have a GM 4x4 with IFS, then note that there is a secondary set of springs
They have the bump stop touching and becomes springs in addition to being a bump
stop.
There was a very long post by BigToe showing what the manual says.
Basically to get the front back to the unloaded position and seems what you have
done.
Still the best thing to do is to weigh your setup axle by axle, both empty and
fully loaded and ready to go. That will indicate or not that you have moved
enough weight from the TV rear axle over to the TV front axle.
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BenK
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03/19/10 05:40pm |
Towing
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RE: What do you think-Sending unit or oil pump?
You didn't say what vehicle (specifications).
If GM gasser GMT400/800/900 it can be as mentioned, the grounding
and not just one place. There are several that have issues.
The sender also keys the injection system. No oil PSI, no fuel (gasser)
There is a relay in that circuit and it is also fused.
Mine also pegs it at 80PSI and when it starts to lower and/or jumps
around...usually the oil needs to be changed. The film strength gone
or going.
Easiest is to check the oil level and the filter if it is plugged. Many
other potentials from the filter plugged, head gasket, etc to the engine going.
Good luck
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BenK
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03/18/10 04:05pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Aluminum vs Steel Rims
On the thread hot linked below...folks were advising this person to
air down and wonder if they understand that this class of tire does
NOT have a safety bead. So airing down has a very high risk of losing the
bead seal (been there, done that and didn't like the 1.5 day hike
out'a there to find help). Whereas the lower class tires (P/LT/ST)
have a safety bead on the rim to prevent or mitigate that
How low of a tire pressure can i run?
I have a school bus conversion. I have dual tires in the back. My tire size is 10R 22.5. Highway use tire design. I drive A LOT off road. Yesterday I drove 40+ miles out a pretty bad dirt road down in Baja. Lots of clearance needed, washboard, some mud, some technical sections etc.
I usually keep my tires around 105-110 psi. In my pickup and my van I lower the psi significantly to make the ride a little smoother and it also helps driving in the sandy bits. Can I do this in my bus? And if so any idea how low I can go?
Thanks in advance.
Rob
There are others both in off roading in various levels and from small
to humongo vehicles.
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BenK
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03/18/10 12:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Aluminum vs Steel Rims
Sorry, I mistakenly thought this was a heavy vehicle discussion (e.g. heavy truck, MH).
Open question "Aluminum vs Steel Rims" and not specific to any class of vehicle nor tire.
What makes one think this is only a HD vehicle discussion and on that, these are
light trucks, not HD trucks. That would then place this in the commercial class
tire/wheels and above (called 'off road' and not the type of which I spoke)
To really nit pick, then this is only about the rims and the spider or hat section
can be anything right? There are alloy rims with steel center hats or
also referred to as 'spider' section....which are both welded and/or
riveted to the rim section. Some even bolted onto the rim section.
There aren't many of us off-roading, at least successfully.
Well than how about those who do? Note used the term "serious off roading"
My serious off roading setup has the OEM steel wheels with LT235/85R16Es
and going to go to LT255/85R16Es the next set of tires for those
wheels. I do off road semi successfully. Semi as in the Suburban is
a whale compared to my old K5 or FJ40, so it can't go where they
can, but I go where most others can't in their smaller 4x4's...and...
yes, have come across several over the years who went out there
with alloys and their mega buck 4x4's to learn that alloys crack and
don't bend back easily...as they will crack when hammered back.
I don't know the OP, but from the tone of your comment, guess you
do and so speak for them?
If so, then the OP should be a bit more specific...and my assumption
is that they many not be knowledgeable in these matters so provided
information to cover a broad spectrum of potential readers.
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BenK
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03/17/10 10:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Aluminum vs Steel Rims
Depends...
For SERIOUS off roading, steel much better. Hit a rock and alloys will generally
crack and not be make-shift repairable. Steel can be hammered back into compliance
and get you out of there.
Pavement, either and both have their up and down sides.
If you use the wrong cleaner, there is chance for embrittlement. Well
known that all aircraft OEMs have put out TSBs warning about the use of certain
cleaners on structural aluminum panels.
Another down side for alloys is that they need to be retorqued a few times
after each time they are taken off. Till the hold the spec'd torque. Reasons
are that they don't have both the 'stretch' of the lug and the 'coined' hole
for the lug nut/bolt. Alloys only have the 'stretch' mode unless they have a
spring washer of some sort rated for that amount of compression for that wheel
Alloys do corrode. Just not as quickly/easily.
Both needs to have their weight ratings and PSI ratings capable or matched to
the load and tire requirements.
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BenK
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03/17/10 06:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Affordable 3/4" Torque Wrench
snip...
we just lean on it "somemore" to check the ball. On our first trip with our new hitch and trailer we found both needed additional tightening several times. Now they seem stable. It was handy to have the torque wrench with us on that trip.
trick....turn the shank 90* in the receiver pin box where it tightens
'downward'....don't need to lean it against anything :)
Too many don't know that this type of application needs to have the
fastener torque checked often till it settles down. Same thing for
alloy wheel lug nuts. They need to be rechecked after a few hundred
miles and again till they settle down and hold.
The OEM specification is supposed to be high enough to manage dynamic
issues with loosening, but this isn't a perfect world... :(
For those who use the lever arm x weight on the end...remind them NOT
to JUMP on it, as that force can be many times more than you expect
it to be. This will over stress and potentially stretch the shank so
that it won't hold the required torque (went past it's yield point)
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BenK
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03/17/10 05:41pm |
Towing
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RE: trailer alignment?
Need more info but here are some basics to check out, in addition to
going out and weighting it axle by axle, both empty and fully loaded.
Even a PUP (pop up) should have 10%-15% (better if closer to 15%) tongue
weight (of the actual, not the brochure numbers).
The PUP tongue should be level at it's highest pointing and better it
slightly down. If not, then of course it will sway. Ditto not enough
tongue weight.
The info posted earlier still applies.
A Highlander is Mini Van based and does not have a high MTWR nor
does it have much room for a decent tongue weight. Especially when
it is loaded both with options and cargo (people, pets, luggage, etc).
Also, since CUV and 'P' rated tires with a suspension designed more
for 'ride quality' than off roading. It is very 'soft' (compliant)
and is not good metrics for towing at it's limits
Since unibody/monocoque is not a good candidate for a WD Hitch system
and you say your POP's tongue is very short. No WD in the cards. So
friction sway bar about the only thing you can add that I know of.
Again, adjust the POP's tongue to be level at it's highest pointing
when fully loaded and finished adjustments. Or slightly pointed down,
which is my suggest.
Other things you can do are to increase the Highlanders tire pressure
to the max listed on the tire sidewalls. Stiffer shocks. If the Highlander
rear end squats a lot, then helper springs of some sort will 'help' a
bit. Moving some of the weight forward on the POP to increase it's
tongue weight will also help.
Oh, if you have gone to larger dia tires, that works against towing
and to adjust for that, change the diff ratio to a higher numeric
(lower ratio).
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BenK
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03/15/10 01:22pm |
Towing
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RE: trailer alignment?
There are several threads concerning the Highlander and one in particular
that got my buddies father into trouble. They have since sold it and
now have a Sequoia with the same trailer.
His father followed several threads and bought that trailer based on
those threads and advice.
Subsequently, I started this thread in hopes of capturing enough information
and to use as reference material.
Ratings, terms and opinions of what they mean...
and this one that is on the same topic
A theoretical question on GVRW
These are the some of the threads they followed. There were others, but can't
find them at the moment.
Practical towing with a Toyota Highlander 3.5
Tow limit for 2008 Highlander....once trailer is loaded
Question re: GCWR - Loaded Vehicle Weight = Tow Capacity
Weight Distibuting Hitch
Also note that a Highlander is a CUV, not a SUV. Derived from a passenager
vehicle. The early Highlanders are based on the Camry and the newer
versions on the Siena mini van. So ask yourself if you would tow
that with a Siena...
So, your dealing with a unibody (monocoque) design based on a mini van
Check your WD Hitch and weights. Best to go out and weigh your setup
axle by axle, both empty and fully loaded.
Then compare it to the ratings. Many will advise to go over the limits
and say it is a personal choice on that risk management decision. They
will not have to be responsible for the setup, as the only one is
the driver. The driver can have a stack of printouts of Internet
recommendations saying to go over the speed limit, but the cop will
only give the ticket to the driver, not to the Internet advisors.
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BenK
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03/14/10 10:14am |
Towing
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RE: Tire condition Examples
I've switched to 303 treatment due to the Michelin rep recommendation. Have tried
to forgo it on my current set of Bridgestone Dueler Revo's and just can't stand
to have them form the brownish coating that all tires get over time. Went about
1 year and when they started to develop that coloration, used 303.
I live in the San Francisco Bayarea, so the level of smog is a bit
higher than out in the country. So rubber/synthetics/etc are attacked
more here.
Those Michelins were about 6 years old when they went flat. I don't drive my
Suburban much ever since selling the boat and only barrow TT's every once in a
while.
Know that my rims are outside the recommended width and did so on purpose. Did
find that the Michelin LTX-MS's have a very tight tread to sidewall design and
ended up pinching the outer tread ribs inwards to wear them out before the center
tread ribs.
The LTX-AT's were much more compliant and so are the Dueler Revos. All LT265/75R16
but the LTX-ATs were load range C and the other two load range E
Do this only on certain vehicles and know the up side and down side of rim width
tolerance. Mainly from my racing days and working with the DOT engineers while
they were certifying the tire test stands we designed for them in the late 60's
or early 70's (don't remember exactly anymore).
Do this on the 2 seater, Suburban and maybe my next sedan (but not as extreme
as ride quality is on that one's to have list, albeit at the bottom).
No way on the Odyssey, but it does have 60 series 'P' rated tires.
I know that 'safety hump' as a 'safety bead'. Commercial class tires do NOT have it.
This safety hump is the main reason P and LT class tires do well off roading
aired down. Why commercial class will lose a seal aired down too low (been there
done that with a set of 33/12.5x16.5 14 ply on my K5). My guess why it is there
is due to the fact that most folks don't check their tire pressure and just one
more safety component dialed in by the OEM designers.
I'm making these references based on common issues via the questions and comments
on this and other forums.
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BenK
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03/12/10 02:07pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: F350 Ring and Pinion
Depends on location.
My area will have the gear set about $800 (dependent on the size of the ring gear
and their quality)
Then the labor is around $300-$400 dependent on the shop. A dealer will usually be
about 2x the labor and ditto their markup on the gear set.
Only go to shops that do a LOT of diff work. Like 4x4 shops.
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BenK
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03/12/10 01:48pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 2010 Ford F150 or F250SD
Between the +7K GVWR and the +9K GVWR pickups, I'd go with the +9K GVWR
Forget about the marketing badges...re-read the others posts and see how they
are falling for the marketing stuff.
A +7K GVWR truck is a +7K GVWR truck no matter what you call it.
Ditto a +9K GVWR truck. A marketing badged half ton but with a +8K GVWR
is not a half ton truck...ditto a 3/4 ton with a +9K GVWR IMHO
You are comparing two different trucks, even though their bodies are
almost the same looking.
Then the car attributes vs truck attributes, and only one person can
decide which is more important. I'll toss in the ratings and whether
you wish to be right at the ratings limit to over, or have extra margins
at the expense of a little less MPG.
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BenK
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03/12/10 01:40pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Computer Chip on a Used Truck - Anything to Worry About?
First, admit that I'm a boy racer from the 60's. Have and will continue
to modify all of my vehicles to suit my tastes/desires/etc. I will not
play the fraud game with warranty when I modify my vehicles. Either
wait till the warranty is past or live within it till it expires.
Consider that they may have removed some or all of the built in
safeties.
One is the top speed or RPM limiter. LT tires are only rated for 100MPH
or most of them. Running up to the rev limiter will save an engine,
but if it has been removed, the engine can and will be harmed if
over rev'd.
Then consider how they make more power vs OEM software.
Advance is the main one and that usually requires higher octane fuel
for a gasser. Since it has a tendency to pre-ignite, the higher octane
and lower coolant temp (check the thermostat...it will be a 160* or so)
There are thermo limits and usually they are either removed or changed.
Did they change the diff ratio and then did they change the computer
look up table to that new diff ratio? Did they increase the tire
dia, therefore the effective diff ratio and then re-engineered accordingly?
Most OEM computers has more than one level of limp mode. Did they
much with them to even removing them all?
Stuff like that
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BenK
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03/10/10 11:32am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Tire condition Examples
Airing down for off roading is common, but for the newbies they don't understand
that it has to be kept SLOW.
Too many come here to complain that their tires make funny sounds and some even
find separation.
your picture and comment on too low is smack on target for those who off road
and air down not knowing that their tires will not last as long.
I've seen folks in my group with the same 4x4, same tires but one P
and the other LT, have the P rated shredded while the LT still in good shape
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BenK
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03/09/10 03:41pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tire condition Examples
Am not asking for myself. Know that stuff from decades as a boy racer
breaking all sorts of things and decades as a designer in the motor
control industry (factory automation, process control, robotics, etc).
I do not have access to the information you have and for some reason,
folks are not arguing with you. You have proven yourself with the info
and images to date.
Many on this forum ask and get recommendations to go ahead and use LT
tires on P rated wheels. Many also say been doing it for a long time
with no issues. I've personally dealt with on when I was in college
working as a tire monkey, both for $$$ and to fuel my racing needs.
Remember that wheel well and amazed to see the rim lip cracked from
a LT tire (80PSI) on a P rated steel wheel. That guy had several other
shops check and remount that same tire onto the same wheel. It held
PSI & Air in their dunk tanks, but after a few miles would leak again
These are usually 'half ton' P'up owners trying to solve a too small
truck by upgrading to the next higher class tire, but skimp on the
cost of new wheels.
Ditto using plugs and many times okay to use plugs on the sidewall
and then the argument that just a plug is ok and no patch needed or
vica versa.
Ditto saying ST tires can be driven over their 65MPH rating.
Ditto advising it is ok to mix tire brand/model/tread pattern/etc
Am now see others posting that P rated used in a light truck app has
it's ratings de-rated 9%. That took several years and only after getting
a few OEMs to post that on their web sites.
Why suspect you wonder what the heck is this guy asking all these
questions. It is not for me, but for the forum and future readers
coming here for info. I've book marked this for reference for future
discussions and will point them to this tread and why another thank
you for starting this very good thread.
I no longer visit here independently as much and usually due to a PM
(they know one of my email addresses from other forums). Have turned
many to this forum from my other forums and personal contact (mainly
church ans volunteer venues).
Not just tires and wheels, but most any other component and/or system
on their TVs and trailers.
The thing they don't get is that you tire engineers have done such a
good job and the tons of margin that they drive into and over all to
often...that also saves their bacon without them knowing it.
Something has changed in the tire compound and caught me on my last
set of tires on the Suburban.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0054Flat.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0057Flatcls-up.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v77/bentoy/Tire%20Wheel/CIMG0069crackclsup.jpg
I've discovered that Michelin LTX-MS load range E's have a very, very
taught belt system and transition to the sidewall. The image show a
LT265/75R16E on 16x10's. 10's on purpose to decrease the sidewall
bendback and to increase the handling performance. Worked against me
on this and now have Bridgestone Dueler Revos and hope they won't
wear out the outer tread ribs like the Michelins did. The LTX-AT's
did NOT do this, but they were load range C's.
Tire age and knew of it, but never experienced it myself and think
the tires today don't last as long as they used to.
Currently on another thread, there is a guy vacationing in Baja with
commercial class tires (22.5) asking if he can air down to get better
ride quality. Many are advising him that they do all the time and ok
for him, little do they know that there is a difference between LT
and commercial class
Tried to explain that those tires do not have a safety bead and airing
them down risks losing the seal and then stuck in the boonies with
a flat.
You have any images showing the differences and that safety bead?
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BenK
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03/09/10 03:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Welding ?
Over at one of my boy racer forums, two have had their computers fried after welding
how much time does it take to remove the battery cable?
how much does a new computer and tech time to dial it in worth?
If you insist on welding without removing the battery or system, then note the
ground clamp should be as close as possible WITHOUT the electronics in the chain
Then note that the paint will not allow a good ground and you SHOULD grind
away the paint to get that good ground. Repaint it after welding.
In past discussions, they said then will use the bolts...but...did you
consider that that that bolted joint may not be a good ground, as
it has paint and crud that it must break through for a good electrical
connection?
Ditto using the existing safety chain eyes...how big a cable end do
you have anyway?...even then, the lock can pass through the receiver
safety hookup and the cable eye's then have the lock go through them
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BenK
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03/08/10 10:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Tire Pressure Monitors
Too many write asking how to fix problems with them for any confidence in them
for now. The convenience factor vs the hassle factor isn't high enough yet.
Mostly when a new tire, or rotation and the system needs to re-marry them to
the right corner.
Other is that they get tweaked during a tire change (flat, new tire, etc) and
they become intermittent.
Been just fine with the various valve stem manual gauges and now my
IR gun will be okay for me. Plus I check the hub/bears with the
IR gun and most anything else (diff pumpkin) that is down there.
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BenK
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03/08/10 09:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Removing Emissions Controls: Legal Ramifications?
Last time I looked, most all other states are also going broke
Be smug in knowing that your state and life is better than any other out there...
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BenK
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03/08/10 09:50pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Removing Emissions Controls: Legal Ramifications?
You folks are what drives them to come up with the wacky methods to catch and enforce
the laws on the books of every state. So it 'appears' stock so even
the dealer provides warranty...or till they find the modifications.
California just last year went over 50% residents who were raised here. For decades, the
laws were written and voted in by imports from the other states. So it is your
states rejects that drive me crazy living in California. Now have to
deal with their now natural born kids, but raised in households with
wacky metrics of 'your' states rejects.
Wacky proposal to have photo sniffers taking pictures of tail pipes. Stupid
try to remove any vehicle over 20 years old from the roads and lucky
to have helped the new law that allows them and no smog testing...but
they continue to try and remove them. It's now up to 25 year old and
they are trying to remove that law again.
You all don't remember, or seems, that the smog in Southern Calif was so bad,
the sky was brown. 'You' folks visiting Disney Land wrote volumes on how Calif
should do something about their very, very bad air quality. Made fun
of Californians and now that Calif has cleaned up, complain it is too clean.
Gassers took a hit in MPG in the 80's from those newly enacted smog laws. Now
gassers are approaching diesel performance and MPG. Diesel 'should' likewise, but
it will take a while.
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BenK
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03/08/10 06:15pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Tire condition Examples
Most of the comments are rhetorical for the forum and I'd like to learn
to keep up to date & fill in my weak spots.
So many mis-informed providing information.
Like: It is okay to use a wheel rated for a 'P' rated tire on an LT tire.
I've seen the wheel rim lip fracture along the bead edge. That advice
would be playing to the safety margin of the design and only a small
fraction would experience failure. The biggie is that in that gamble
(risk management decision), which one are 'you' going to be....stuff
only happens to the other guys, right?
Like: those recommending lowering PSI for ride quality to a guy driving
a converted bus/RV in Baja. They have no concept of what a safety bead
and that a commercial class tire has none. Yes, a completely different
animal in reference to ST/P/LT tires....but....most think they are the
same, as they 'look' the same.
Glad you posted the melted ply cords. Many understand the amount of
heat that can be generated by the flexing of the tire sidewall and
even less can visualize that the tread also experiences similar flexing
I'm not a fan of TPMS, but that is for my application. The overhead
is just not acceptable for 'me'. I carry an IR gun and check them all
at each stop. ON that, what is the operating range for LT/P/ST tires
and assume that chart will have it for the sidewalls and tread area
as separate ranges.
These 'engineering' based components and systems are in discussion
here and other forums constantly. The amounts of wrong information
large and appreciate and commend your efforts to inform others.
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BenK
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03/08/10 11:19am |
Tech Issues
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