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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > First Post ! - Charging toad battery while towing to prevent battery rundown

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cncplus

Alberta

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Posted: 11/07/03 10:54am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello Long first post - I apologize if this has been covered - I did searches and found no info on this topic. Here goes.... I am installing a towbar and auxillary brake system on a 2002 Honda CRV which willed be towed by a 1998 22' Travelaire Class C on a Ford E350 11,500 GVW V10 chassis. I plan to use the SMI Stay-IN-Play brake system as it uses a vacuum pump to keep the CRV brake booster charged with vacuum, which I prefer over a dead pedal system. (i.e. Brake Buddy or Blue Ox Apollo) The CRV draws 1/2 an amp (500 ma.)continuous when the key is in the AUX position (need to use this position to keep steering unlocked) The brake lights on the Honda draw approx. 6 amps when energized by the aux. brake system, and SMI told me that the vacuum pump draws about 8 amps when it is operating. I am installing an independent taillight, brake/turnsignal dual filament bulb in the unused "European fog light socket" found on the CRV taillight assembly. This will be completely isolated from the CRV electrical system and powered from the trailer socket on the coach. [As an aside: does anyone have a part number for the Honda dual filament bulb SOCKET with the modified triangular shape as used on the 2002-04 Honda CRV taillight lens assembly] The Honda dealer wants a part no., not a description of the socket. I have a long continuous tow coming up (over 3,000 miles) and I know the CRV battery will be depleting (1/2 amp continous and up to 14 amps intermittent when brake pedal is depressed over 3000 miles is a fair bit of juice from a physically small CRV battery) The CRV is manual trans. so I don't need to run the engine every 6-8 hours as needed on the auto trans model. I was thinking of using the fused 12V feed from the coach trailer socket (hot only when coach is running) to charge the CRV battery. I Will use a diode in this circuit so there will be no backflow from CRV to coach battery) Only downside to this that I can think of is: is there a chance of overcharging the CRV battery. (not sure if the 13.8 volt from the coach (while running) will potentially overcharge, or increasing resistance of charged CRV battery will prevent this. If anyone has done this, how did it work out? Or, if anyone can see problems, please let me know. Also, would appreciate feedback on SMI Stay-IN-Play brake system. Thanks very much.

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summersr

Washington

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Posted: 11/07/03 12:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Know there are many opinions on this subject but I have been more than satisfied with the BrakeBuddy I use in my CR-V. Lots of discussion regarding how much braking do you need in a toad. Some have driven without auxillary brake systems for years and don't see why you would need any auxillary system. Some have integrated a braking system into the toad that becomes part of the coach braking system, and some like me took to the middle ground and went with an "helper" approach.

As the CR-V only weighs around 3300 lbs, the Coach brakes seem to be able to handle the extra weight without a lot of braking. I have set the sensitivity to 5 (1-7 range) on my BrakeBuddy and it only applies the brakes when I do "aggressive" stops.

If the Toad was in the 5,000 lb range I might have considered a more active brake solution.


2002 Mini Winnie 30V,ShurFlo Extreme water pump
2002 Honda CR-V toad,
BlueOx base plate/Aladdin towbar,
BrakeBuddy with breakaway & remote braking alert
Tucker food processor



John Wayne

Long Beach, Ca

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Posted: 11/07/03 12:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Treat the CRV like a trailer charging the trailer batt. get a heavy duty continuous use relay hook it up like you would if you had a travel trailer and run the charge wire to the toad you my already have a charge line in your plug on the RV.
then when you shut down at night you can stay hooked up and not drain RV batt. Alt. will not boil CRV batt.


John & Carol
01 31'Sea View single slide, F53 V-10
96 Toyota 4-Runner auto 4x4 (Remco, M&G brake system)

KF6HCH


Itascafixer

Edmond, OK 73013

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Posted: 11/07/03 02:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The relay will work well. A diode will also work. Just make sure the diode is rated for 25% or more than the circuit breaker you install. Also a diode dissipates power, depending on its rating and probably will need a heat sink. power = current X voltage!

KiwiPete

New Zealand

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Joined: 09/03/2003

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Posted: 11/07/03 09:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi cncplus,
the diode will drop the voltage to the honda so the battery will not over charge, but the charge should be maintained.

Peter H


Nissan Civilian Bus Conversion.
120hp, 6-speed manual, turbo diesel, 23ft.
Home town Karitane, Otago, New Zealand.

Rufinit

Seattle WA

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Posted: 11/09/03 10:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Unified Brake for my CRV. It requires a charge line from the coach. I just completed a round trip 3000 miles trip and had no problems with the CRV battery running out of juice. We drove 650 miles one day. Not a problem.


Joe in Seattle
2006 Newmar Essex 4502
2003 Honda CRV EX
Winter: Outdoor Resorts Motorcoach Country Club, Indio CA


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