Blacky
San Jose, CA USA
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We will be picking up our new motorhome in Reno in the next few days (weather allowing), and traveling to Las Vegas via Hwy 95. Weather projections show night temperatures anywhere from 18 degrees to 22 or so around Reno as well as Tonopah, where we may stay with acquaintenances.
Question No. 1: would you be concerned about it if you left the MH overnight for ONE night only in temperatures such as the above? In other words, no heat in the MH....no activity. Or would you want to "blow out the lines"?
Question 2: What is used to blow these lines out-something like a compressor? or what? And if it is a compressor (or "what"), where do you attach it in order to clear them of any water?
Hope I'm clear in what I'm trying to ask. Would appreciate any and all help I can get on this. This is our first MH, so you are talking with an inexperienced newbie.
Thanks, Jim
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Lil Truckr
Central Wisconsin, USA
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Joined: 01/15/2003
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Hey Blacky,
Congratulations on the new coach.
If your new rig has basement heat, and you leave the furnace on, you will have no problems if it gets into the 20's. Just set the thermostat at 50 degrees and leave it be. If and when the temperature in the coach gets that low the furnace will fire up and keep the coach and basement heated. This normally includes the water tanks, etc. Ask you dealer for sure.
As for blowing out the lines. Never use more then 60 psi to blow them out. Any more and you risk rupturing your water lines. Very expensive to repair. To blow them out, you will need to buy a three dollar adapter from your dealer that screws onto the city water intake. This is normally located on the outside of the rig on in a compartment that has all your coach's water and dump controls. Again ask you dealer how to do this. He should be showing you anyhow. Thats why you paid all that money you know.
Good luck and happy camping.
P.s. Join other Tiffin RV owners at www.tiffinrv.net You will get lots on good info there.
Lil Truckr
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cwmr
Florida
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Joined: 08/10/2003
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I can relate to your experience. I favor blowing out the water from the lines instead of pumping antifreeze. There is a plastic adapter available at most RV stores that screws to your city water inlet. At the other end of the adapter is a tapered open end. This is where you connect your air compressor. I could not answer your first question.
To winterize my RV I empty all tanks, fresh water,waste tanks, water heater tanks then run the water pump till no water comes out of the faucets. Close all faucets then run the air compressor hooked up by the above adapter to the city water inlet. I wait till the air pressure is about 30 psi then open the faucets one at a time till only air comes out. I then pour a cup of antifreeze to each drain. I leave all faucets and water pipe vents open. Hope this helps.
cwmr
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csshafer
Pasadena, Texas
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For the past 3 winters, I've used the plastic blowout plug mentioned in the post above. The big disadvantage with this is that you have to: 1. screw on the adapter and pressurize the system with air 2. go inside and open faucets one at a time clearing the water 3. go back out and repressurize the system with air, go back in and open another faucet, etc. etc. etc. I've attached a picture of an adapter I built from common hardware store parts. Now I can attach my air compressor hose directly to the trailer and keep air pressure in the system as long as I need it. Now, I'll just have to let the compressor catch up but not have to keep going in and out of the trailer.
* This post was
edited 02/29/04 08:36pm by csshafer *
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Lil Truckr
Central Wisconsin, USA
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Csshafer,
Neat idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. I made basically the same outfit to blow out my water lines from my garage/shop. I'll definitely have to build one of them. Thanks for the insight.
I just got a brain storm. Ouch!
Upon building that adapter I could just hook up the air line from my coach to blow out it's own water line. This way I don't have to hunt up a compressor while on the road. I already have a pressure regulator installed, I'll just have to turn it down to 60 psi. Gee, I'm so smart I'm scaring myself.
L.T.
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Jethroish
Charlestown, IN
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Joined: 05/31/2001
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Blackey,
Unless you are planning on using the MH right away, why not check and see if the dealer will or has winterized it.
When we got our new 5er, it was Feb and the dealer had already winterized the unit.
I just blew out my lines yesterday, but I did it by simlpy putting the blow nozzle in the "low point" drain line with the other line uncapped.
I probably did not need to, but I then pumped some anitfreeze through the lines by disconnecting the intake line off the pump and slid a hose on the pump with the other end in the gallon of pink stuff..
Don't let your work become your life.
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Blacky
San Jose, CA USA
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Appreciate the replys given so far. A few of mentioned compressors. What size...how large, etc. Looked at a couple of small portable for in the neighborhood of $100 at Home Depot. One was a 1 and 1/2 gal and the other a 2 gal. What do you think of that size? And what should I look for as far as pressure capability?
Jim
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arkaussie
Mountain Home AR
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Jim,
To answer your first question, I would plug in to electric at your friends house. You may use a 15 or 20 amp connection as you only want the furnace on. Make sure your propane tank has been filled. Then like someone else said set your stat as low as you can then the water will not freeze and nor will you when you get back in the next day.
For your second question. If you are going to buy a small compressor you might want to think about being able to air your tires on the road. For this you will need in excess of 100psi. There are some small 110 volt units out there for around $100 that would give you what you need. A cheaper one (or 12 volts)will most likely never get your tires up if needed. Once you have that then it will be more than enough to do your line blow out. The only thing you may need is a pressure regulator, not expensive, to get the pressure down for blowing lines. If you use quick connect fittings for your air chuck then you can get a pair of male female quick connects for your regulator and then you can put it in line before the air chuck, just make sure you have the flow thru the regulator going the right way.
If all this is a little confusing then ask away
Good luck with your new MH....enjoy
Lindsay
Our days are happier when we give people a bit of our heart rather than a piece of our mind.
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HotVidMan
Broomall, PA, USA
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Joined: 08/04/2003
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CsShafer,
What type of compressor are you using that will hook on there and not produce too much pressure? If it a small DC type of compressor, like one of those 200 or 225psi models that has that type of clamp down end? I am guessing it must be that type and that it just keeps running, right?
I ask this because your idea sure looks good to me (I hate running back and fourth too) but I know my compressor wouldn't have an end like that, but rather various attachments that I can add to is such as the normally found one at the gas station. Also, I think if I was to allow mine to be hooked up flat out it would blow the water lines and I don't just mean blow the water out of them!
I normally attach the type of attachment to the air hose that one can squeeze to allow it to fill the lines with air. I use the same plastic type fitting for the city water inlet. I fill it up to where I "FEEL" if safe enough, then I blow the lines out and repeat. I often worry that I may be putting too much pressure in there anyway!
Jim
HotVidMan@aol.com
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csshafer
Pasadena, Texas
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I have a standard horizontal oilless compressor on wheels with an 11 gallon tank. It is capable of up to 115 lbs or so, but I set the outlet pressure to about 40psi for blowing out the air lines. The tank pressure builds to 115 but the outlet hose pressure never exceeds 40psi. The fitting is made up of a brass end with water hose threads (not sure exactly what it's called because the hardware store guy found it for me), a reducer bushing, and a male air fitting (1/4" NPT) that I have on all of my air tools. My air hoses all have the mating female couplers on them so changing out air tools, blower nozzles, etc is not a problem.
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