showpare

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Mr. Wizard--Thanks for the battery charging info!
This generator has a single 120v outlet, a single 120/240v twist lock and the 30 amp RV receptacle. I was wondering about the 240v twist lock; maybe doing the "(2) circuit 4 way box with (2) duplex outlets connected by a 4 conductor cable (red,blk,wht & ground?". Help me on this: red to the hot side of a duplex and black to the hot side of the other duplex, white for neutral. Ground the receptacles with the green? Am I close? Or close to electrocution?
MrWizard wrote: showpare wrote: Charging a 12 volt Battery and making an output power cord:
I have a Champion C46540 for back-up power. I did a search for this question but didn't get much. It has a 10A 12VDC output with the alligator clips to charge batteries. The users manual mentions to not charge deep cycle batteries. What is the difference?
Is there a way to make a 240 VAC twist-lock female into 4 120 VAC power cord, at home? I’ve seen (or think I’ve seen) these with higher priced home-type generators and on the Internet for about $100.
at 10 amps max charge, it won't make any difference if the batteries involved are deep cycle or regular starter batteries
what do you mean by (4) 120 VAC power ? do you mean a (2) circuit 4 way box with (2) duplex outlets connected by a 4 conductor cable (red,blk,wht & ground) ?
I think you will get better power use and regulation using a dogbone plugged into the full power duplex outlet
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MrWizard

Van Nuys, Ca

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that would be correct, and put the gnerator in 220 mode,
the only problem is balancing the load, since each duplex will be on (1) winding, you cannot have more than 14.5 amps on either duplex, or you will trip the breaker on that winding
i would prefer to buy some 10 gauge 3 wire ( instead of 12 ga 4 wire ) and make one cord using the RV 30 amp receptacle and put your 4 sq and (2) duplexes, at the end of the 10 ga run, the total load ( what ever it is ) will be on both windings paralleled for 120, with no imbalance worries.
but thats just me
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tvman44

Southwest Louisiana

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MrWizard wrote: that would be correct, and put the gnerator in 220 mode,
the only problem is balancing the load, since each duplex will be on (1) winding, you cannot have more than 14.5 amps on either duplex, or you will trip the breaker on that winding
i would prefer to buy some 10 gauge 3 wire ( instead of 12 ga 4 wire ) and make one cord using the RV 30 amp receptacle and put your 4 sq and (2) duplexes, at the end of the 10 ga run, the total load ( what ever it is ) will be on both windings paralleled for 120, with no imbalance worries.
but thats just me
I agree with Mr. Wizard, if you only want 120 that is the way to go.
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
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'nawlins

Slidell, La.

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The B&S gensets had the twist lock 4 plug adapters you referred too and some of the newer ones use a cute molded dog bone adapter for the duplex outlets.
As Mr. Wizard pointed out, they split the load over the in series coils, two plugs per side.
I have the twist lock cord set. Due to this excellent thread, I have my Pramac geny in parallel 115vac mode as I don't need the 220vac. Each set of plugs has its own 15 amp breaker as before. (or 30amp using my custom twist lock to RV adapter)
showpare wrote: Charging a 12 volt Battery and making an output power cord:
I have a Champion C46540 for back-up power. I did a search for this question but didn't get much. It has a 10A 12VDC output with the alligator clips to charge batteries. The users manual mentions to not charge deep cycle batteries. What is the difference?
Is there a way to make a 240 VAC twist-lock female into 4 120 VAC power cord, at home? I’ve seen (or think I’ve seen) these with higher priced home-type generators and on the Internet for about $100.
* This post was
edited 10/06/08 03:43pm by 'nawlins *
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'nawlins

Slidell, La.

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Nice job! Let us know if you decide to set up for propane use and any differences in temps. The stumbling you mentioned was from boiling off the fuel?
http://www.affordablegokarts.com/curved-manifold.php This site shows ways to move your carburetor to cooler areas FWIW.
bobandcat wrote: During the first test, the generator ran for 30 minutes at 2600 watts before it started to stumble. The load was immediately and arbitrarily reduced to 1600 watts by turning off the leaf blower and leaving the air compressor load running. The test continued for another 30 minutes without any further problems with the maximum temperatures dropping and stabilizing. At 1600 watts, the air temp above the engine stabilized at 160 degrees, above the genhead at 140 degrees and enclosure exit air at 150 degrees. Test time was 60 minutes under load, 15 minutes running with cooling fans load (110watts) and 15 minutes with the engine off and cooling fans running. Enclosure cooling was extremely effective after the engine was stopped and the cooling fans continued running..
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rwjejits

Houston, Texas

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Hello - been following this thread off and on for some time...lots of great info. I have a Powerwise 3500 and it developed a problem not too long ago (while in use following hurricane Ike). Basically the unit was hard to start (high compression in cylinder). I could remove the spark plug and it would spin just fine..screw it back in and shaft would not spin over 1/4 to 1/2 rotation. Actually busted the pull start mechanism when it locked up on me when attempting to start. My initial diagnosis was that I had a stuck valve.
I pulled the head off and inspected everything...a little carboned up but otherwise all appeared to be fine...valves freely moved, pushrods true, seat springs (I think that is what you call them) not broke, etc..
I put it all back together and the unit will not start (fuel and spark are confirmed). I think my problem is that I don't have the valves/rocker arms adjusted right (truthfully I didn't pay that much attention to how much thread was showing above the keeper nut before I pulled them off during disassembly). Those that have pulled the valve cover know what I am talking about.
While adjusting the rocker arm tension nuts numerous time (tapered one that touches rocker arm) I actually got it to fire up and run strong for `20seconds...but it eventually quit because the main nut loosened up and put things out of adjustment (I didn't have the keeper nut on top).
There must be a very small margin of error for where both need to be set at (sweet spot). I tried numerous turns in/out on both but can't get there again.
Is there a post in this thread that might give some tips on how to adjust these valves? I really think that this is what is keeping it from firing up.
After what I've learned from pulling the head off and seeing how this thing operates, I beleive my original problem (hard/impossible to spin shaft with pull starter) was caused by one or both valves being out of adjustment). I can actually re-create the problem by backing way off on the rocker arm tension nut.
Any tips on getting these set right? Thanks again and sorry for long post...
2004 Ford F250 6.0 PSD
1998 31' Seahawk 5th Wheel
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rwjejits

Houston, Texas

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Well did some more searching and found link to the Champion TSB on valve adjustment. Gonna give it a try..just hope specs(gauge spacing between rocker arm / valve stem) for the Champion unit are close to what the Powerwise units should be set at for both intake & exhaust.
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professor95

Mechanicsville, VA

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rwjejits wrote:
Any tips on getting these set right? Thanks again and sorry for long post...
Yes. Go here.
Your engine is very similar to the Champion engine thus the directions and measurements should work fine.
Also note the compression release function - you may have a problem there with your engine.
You can view all of CPE's technical bulletins here or copy and paste this URL into your browser http://www.cpeauto.com/techbulletin.php
Virtually all of these little GX200 style engines are Honda clones. There are some minor differences but not major enough that you cannot use CPE's tech bulletins to service your engine.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee, Mechanicsville, VA
2009 Cedar Creek 34SATS 5th Wheel - GMC 3500 dually
Generator Collection: Champion 40008 - ELM3000 - Kipor 2000Ti - Kawasaki 1400 - Champion 7,800W LPG (Home Back Up)
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rwjejits

Houston, Texas

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professor95 wrote: rwjejits wrote:
Any tips on getting these set right? Thanks again and sorry for long post...
Yes. Go here.
Your engine is very similar to the Champion engine thus the directions and measurements should work fine.
Also note the compression release function - you may have a problem there with your engine.
You can view all of CPE's technical bulletins here or copy and paste this URL into your browser http://www.cpeauto.com/techbulletin.php
Virtually all of these little GX200 style engines are Honda clones. There are some minor differences but not major enough that you cannot use CPE's tech bulletins to service your engine.
Thanks Professor. Going to give it a try tomorrow!
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SonicLogic

Pensacola, FL

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rwjejits wrote: Well did some more searching and found link to the Champion TSB on valve adjustment. Gonna give it a try..just hope specs(gauge spacing between rocker arm / valve stem) for the Champion unit are close to what the Powerwise units should be set at for both intake & exhaust. The engine on your PowerWise is a JF200 (made by Jiangdong). The procedure for setting the valves is the same as for the Champion engines. The Champion manual gives the specs. in inches and here are the same specs. in mm:
Intake Valve: 0.15 +/- 0.02 mm (cold)
Exhaust Valve: 0.20 +/- 0.02 mm (cold)
The specs. on the two engines are the same. As the prof. said, they're both Honda GX200 clones.
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