CougarMark67XR7

Detroit, MI

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ADDENDUM: My apologies folks, this is Lap Sealant that I need to remove. =)
I noticed that in some of the threads, it is recommended to remove the old adhesive. Can anyone tell me how to remove the old adhesive that is attached to my fairly new rubber roof?
Thank you in advance,
Mark
67' Cougar XR7 Calif. car (Precious)
67' Pontiac GTO Calif. car (for sale)
79' Mercedes 300SD turbodiesel (southern survivor)
95' F350 dually diesel crew cab from TX
94' Honda Accord (The Winter Beater)
94' Fleetwood Wilderness 5'er (hence the dually)
* This post was
edited 05/28/08 09:58pm by CougarMark67XR7 *
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Joy

Henderson KY 42420

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Try Goo-Gone (walMart, etc.) or Ooops! (hardware stores, etc) In some cases, I believe WD 40 works and for some adhesive gunk, simple vegetable oil will take it off although it may take some extra rubbing.
See ya' down the road!
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fordsooperdootydieselsmoker

OrangeCountyCalifornia

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"DO NOT USE ANYTHING CONTAINING A PETROLEUM DISTILLATE OR ANY PETROLUM PRODUCT!"
It could damage your roof and/or void your 15 to 20 year warranty. Everything listed in the above post contains a petroleum product, which weakens the membrane of the roof and causes adhesive failure.
If you are re-applying new butyl sealant, remove as much old, cracked stuff as you can (use a plastic putty knife) and re-apply the new stuff. Or bypass all the work and simply use EternaBondand forget about it for 15 years or so!
"Insure you clean the area to be sealed and/or caulked before you start. Do NOT use petroleum based solvents to prepare the roof for sealant. It will leave a film that the sealant will not adhere to. Instead, a rag with some Rubbing or Denatured alcohol works best. If the roof is real dirty, spray it off with water from a garden hose and let it completely dry overnight before using the alcohol. If your RV's roof has got layer upon layer of just about everything under the sun... silicone, fibered black tar, some sort of roll-on reflective roof paint, duct tape, and what not, it will all have to be removed before properly re-sealing.
From an RV Tech..."
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bearsnob

Oregon

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If it is difficult to remove, why are you removing it? I would think that if it is difficult to remove, it is still doing its job.
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CougarMark67XR7

Detroit, MI

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I was GOING to remove it per a thread on here that said to try to remove as much of it as possible. Most of the adhesive is doing its job except for a few "cracks" in the adhesive which has conveniently allowed water to enter my 5'er. I am also taking into account that I cannot possibly continue to layer lap sealant year after year without removing some of it eventually....any thoughts?? Looks like that Eterna-bond is the way to go!!
67' Cougar XR7 Calif. car (Precious)
67' Pontiac GTO Calif. car (for sale)
79' Mercedes 300SD turbodiesel (southern survivor)
95' F350 dually turbodiesel crew cab from TX
94' Honda Accord (The Winter Beater)
94' Fleetwood Wilderness 5'er (hence the dually)
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bearsnob

Oregon

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I think I'd go with eternabond if I were in your position. It has a proven track record and can do things that lap sealant can't. I'm probably misremembering, but isn't mineral spirits okay on EPDM? What I'm remembering is being surprised that it was okay, but I could easily be wrong. You'll want things as clean as possible before using the eternabond. Maybe a call to dicor would be in order to see what they recommend for adhesive removal. I've called them in the past and their technical support team was excellent.
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Ottawa Campers

Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

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I've had two leaks in my fairly new roof in the last two years. Both times, the leak was caused by a crack in the roofing "lap sealant" that was caused by poor workmanship when the trailer was assembled. In one case, the trim piece between the rubber roof material and the one-piece front cap came loose because the installers had stripped the screws used to install the trim. I removed all of the sealant, removed the trim piece, screwed a couple of new holes, and put everything back together with new sealant. That repair has held up for 2 years now. About a month ago, I had to fix the exact same spot on the other side of the trailer. This time, the installers decided to use extra long screws to attach the 1/4" trim piece to the roof (about 2.5" long). The problem was, the extra long screws were not threaded for the last 3/4" or so, so they had nothing to attach to (the plywood underneath is probably only 1/2" thick, and the screws were nowhere near a roof stud). I filled the holes with a couple of wooden toothpicks (an old woodworker's repair I learned a long time ago), replaced the screws with some shorter screws (threaded the entire length), re-sealed with lap sealant, and that now seems fine. Tomorrow, I will tackle my TV antenna, which is not yet leaking, but has some serious cracks in the lap sealant (which I am sure I will discover are due to poor workmanship in the first place).
Good luck with your repair.
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rbdtanasi

Foley, AL

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Perhaps I am reading between the lines, but I think you are talking about caulk and not adhesive. To remove, use a plastic putty knife and slowly try to remove as much as you can that is above the surface. Keep the plastic putty knife parallel to the roof. Once you have removed as much as you can, you can use mineral spirits to try and remove more, and to clean it before applying more caulk.
Use only caulk that is approved for rubber roofs.
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Bob Shaw

Newnan Ga

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I just had to do that when a skylight started leaking in my 4 year-old 5'er. While I didn't have a "plastic" putty knife, I did use a putty knife, very carefully. Work slowly and methodically and it will come off. Make sure you have plenty of time before the next rain. You really need to let the alcohol you use for cleaning the area dry before re-applying a sealant. I used rubber roof repair tape to reseal mine. I put a small bead of Dicor around the edges of the skylight and then put the tape on, and then sealed all edges of the tape with Dicor. It looks better than the original, and I've had no leaks through several major storms.
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daytona7

Florida

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I just read the reply about a 15 year old roof warranty. Recently purchased a used 2004 Cameo which had 1 or 2 previous owners. Does the warranty cover only the original owner? Reason for my asking is that since purchasing the 5'ver, I experienced the first hard rain today and found the skylight over the shower leaking. Dealer said their warranty was only for 30 days. Did find paper work with the name of the last owner who said that the only reason they rid of the Cameo was due to the leak which the dealer was informed about. Have 2 tubes of Dico Lap Sealant 501 LSW that I hope to be able to apply after getting the older sealant around the skylight removed.
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