Spectramac
Monroe, WA
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Joined: 06/11/2008
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I'm on the roof now, yep! Lotta layers of goop. It's actually pretty strong still, holds me up fine anyway. Just has a few low spots. Pics later...
Malcolm
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Skyliner
Duluth, MN
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Joined: 06/01/2008
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I am going through something similar with my 75 Brougham. The PO seemed to think that caulk was the answer to everything, and basically let lower part of the cabover rot away. I started tearing in last week and was amazed and the damage in there. Basically everything from the bottom of the windows down needs to be replaced.
I filled 5 trash bags with wood so rotted it was basically compost.
After the tear out, a week of running the dehumidifier and fans got things nice and dry.
So far I have been able to do most of the work from the inside and it is coming along well. My plan is to rebuild it stronger than original. It is impossible to find original trim and such, but the local home supply store has things that are close enough so it should look better once done.
I bought the RV knowing there were issues, so the scope of the project is no real shock to me. The rest of the coach is really solid with no water damage, so once everything is done and sealed up well, it should be a good rig for years to come.
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gatoruss
Longwood
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Skyliner wrote:I am going through something similar with my 75 Brougham. The PO seemed to think that caulk was the answer to everything, and basically let lower part of the cabover rot away. I started tearing in last week and was amazed and the damage in there. Basically everything from the bottom of the windows down needs to be replaced.
I filled 5 trash bags with wood so rotted it was basically compost.
After the tear out, a week of running the dehumidifier and fans got things nice and dry.
So far I have been able to do most of the work from the inside and it is coming along well. My plan is to rebuild it stronger than original. It is impossible to find original trim and such, but the local home supply store has things that are close enough so it should look better once done.
I bought the RV knowing there were issues, so the scope of the project is no real shock to me. The rest of the coach is really solid with no water damage, so once everything is done and sealed up well, it should be a good rig for years to come.
Sky - You have any photos of your re-build. I am curious what it look like inside the walls?
I have a class C that had a prior leak. Had a repair shop rebuild bunk a year ago, and try to repair leak. Not sure, but may be leaking again. The inside walls all seem solid - no delamination or mushiness - seems firm, except about a 6 inch by 6 inch section just below and to the left of the cabover front window (above driver). That section is "pruned" slightly and if you push on it it has some give - not a lot but some - that seems indicative of water damage. I walked the roof and the top over the cab seems intact and the running lights seem sealed. I am thinking it might be the front window.
Though it would be instructive to see pix of what the inside looks like pulled apart?
Gatoruss
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gatoruss
Longwood
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Dupe post....sorry.
* This post was
edited 06/16/08 07:43am by gatoruss *
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Spectramac
Monroe, WA
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Here's today's round of carnage pics...
Oh yeah, it's a major ordeal now!  Looks like a complete new wall for the driver's side, some on the passenger side, new front and back, and a good part of the roof.  I hope we get more dry weather this month! Hell, if the inside wasn't so nice I'd just make it a flatbed car hauler or something! 
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65CrewCabPW
eastern Oregon
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Joined: 06/10/2008
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Wow... What a job you bought yourself!
It looks like far more than I want to tackle.
How is the outer plywood attached the inner frame? is the frame rotten too?
If the framework is rotten, how do you "fix" it?
Are you just mostly replacing the outer ply skin, putting the metal back on, and sealing it up?
Thanks
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Mopars forever... Not German, Japanese, Chinese...American Mopars!
The price of freedom is higher than the price of slavery, but it's still a bargain!
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Spectramac
Monroe, WA
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I'm going to try building a whole new wall for it. Not quite sure how I'll go about it yet... Be nice to have a large pad of concrete to build it on, but no dice. At this point I'm thinking of building a big frame work to support the first piece of paneling, then I can start building the frame on top and eventually put the outer panel on. Originally they just lay the frame pieces out and staple between them to stick them together. Once the staples rust away the wall gets pretty loose. I used some galvanized corner brackets and epoxy covered screws in my camper rebuild 2 years ago with some success. I just couldn't use them in tight spaces very well. I'll probably just glue them down with some const. adhesive first then go from there with some kind of fasteners where I can. I'd like this thing to be as strong and light as I can make it.
Yeah, I had a few moments of doubt last night, but I do enjoy a challenge. We'll see what happens... I hope to get done with tear down in the next week.
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ALnCORY
Idaho
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Joined: 10/06/2005
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Spectramac,
When I built these things for a living you of course built everything on a jig and then put the cabinet sections in, place the walls on and then lay on the roof sections. I think if I were doing what you are I would start at the bottom of the wall, replace the 2x's along the floor and then start building from there up. Replacing timber as you work your way up and tying it all together. Just a guess as I am not there, but the strength in the units are from tying everything together, the 2x's the ply etc, etc. Good luck, I will be watching your progress.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
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Spectramac
Monroe, WA
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My problem is the inner layer of paneling is rotted in areas too, so I'm thinking I'm stuck taking that whole wall off and making a new one. I came home early tonight to see what else I can get torn off it before our nice weather goes away. Should have some more pics later.
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PapPappy
Wilmington, NC
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Joined: 12/23/2007
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Just thinking, as I was looking at those pictures....have you considered going with the metal studs? I really have no idea about the prices, compared to wood, but I'd think you could get more strength, and keep the weight down. Even if you only do it on one side, you would reduce the weight, and be able to really up the insulation on that side.
Have you considered reducing the size of the over-cab bunk area? I know that right now, you are just in demolition mode....
Keep those pictures coming!!!
DH Bill / DW Claudia / DD Jenn / DS Chris
The Paps! Sophie, Abby, Brandy, Kahlie and Annie 
2000 Winnebago "Minnie" 31C, Ford V-10
Purchased April Fools Day, 2008
The Pets
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