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KB4CVN

Monroe, Virginia USA

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Posted: 06/25/08 09:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Year-Round Living – Upgrades & Mod’s


This is a general query to the Forum for any information and insight.

My wife has decided to return to school for a second career, and will be required to live out-of-town for about 14 months. I have found a Mobile Home Park with RV spots only a few miles from the college.


Given today’s gasoline prices, rather than a 200 mile commute each day from home to the college, the best (and cheape$t) accommodations were for her to live in our 5th-wheel camper for this period during the week and drive home on the weekends. This adventure will be starting in mid-August 2008.

Our camper is a Fleetwood Prowler Model#25-5 5th-wheel camper. It will be parked on a level concrete pad with full-hookup.


The obvious items I have thought of are:

1- Fresh Water Line: Install a pressure regulator, make connection with 1/2-Inch PVC pipe, wrap with electric ‘heat tape’ and insulate from the cold temperatures.

2- Sewage (black/gray) water pipe: make connection with large diameter drain pipe, wrap with electric ‘heat tape’ and insulate from the cold temperatures.

3- Install some sort of freestanding electrical heater (electric oil type radiator?) and a dedicated 120 VAC/30 AMP receptacle directly connected to the site’s electric box pedestal with a separate 10 gauge cable. Camper has 120 VAC powered A/C, and propane fueled floor ducted heat.) Site rental includes electric regardless of A/C or Heater use.

4- Camper has an underliner. However, I thought it would be efficient to also install some sort of underpinning to protect the underbelly of the camper from sub-freezing temperatures and minimize wind under the camper. (Location is central Virginia, near Roanoke. Average minimum nighttime temps are 10-20 degrees, with occasional dips into the single digit range.)

5- Condensation: It has been recommended by the manufacturer (Fleetwood) to also purchase a dehumidifier to control condensation inside the camper.


Is there anything else anyone can recommend?


Any/all information, suggestions and insight GREATEFULLY accepted !!!




Thank you in advance



Mark (KB4CVN) & Debra (N4XFM) Cobbeldick
w/ "Scamper" & "Jake"
Pedlar Mills, VA (Amherst County)

2007 Dodge 3500 Crewcab, Cummings Diesel, 4x4
2001 Prowler 25.5 Foot 5th-Wheel


nuketech43

Baxley,Ga

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Posted: 06/25/08 10:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have spent winters in Illinois and Michigan. Had no issues.
1. I just heat tape a short water hose,Then insulate it with 1" pipe insulation.
2. PVC pipe for sewer-no heat tape,just stage a outdoor light with 300 watt bulb aimed at the valves..
3. Just 1 electric heater in living room, and 1 in bedroom. My heat is a little different as I have a basement heat pump. Uses electricity as long as under camper stays 45 or above. I also have the large 100# propane bottle. If possible I try to get a 200# propane pig where the propane company will fill up. not real easy moving a 100# bottle around.
4. I use the blue 1/2" insulation. Tapes to camper. Use 2 x 4 wood. drilled holes to use the large nails to secure to the ground. then staple the insulation to the wood. Withstood 50 mph winds. I then put 3 work lights under the camper where the heat pump is located. At temps below zero very little issue with keeping temp under trailer around 45 degrees. Also enclose the front with a door to store things so they are not outside.


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KB4CVN

Monroe, Virginia USA

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Posted: 06/25/08 10:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi nuketech43,
Good Info! Thanks.

I wanted to use an external residential style propane tank, but the Park managers drew the line on that one. RV/Trailer must be self-contained. So I must use the two on-board 40 pound Propane tanks.

Also had not considered a custom length hose. Will do.

Mark C.

ozhoo

Anza Borrego Desert

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Posted: 06/25/08 10:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There's plenty of heat loss areas in an rv that you can address to make it more comfortable.

When it gets that cold I cover most (all big ones) of the windows with reflectix and stuff foam pads lined with reflectrix into the vent openings. If you have a skylight, line it with reflectix as well.

Humidity can be a problem, so vent the rv whenever you get a chance.

My biggest problem in cold weather is with the basement plumping freezing. I eneded up sticking a small electric heater down there. Oh, and my dump vales froze closed, here again, I just set the little electric heater by the Y pipe until it warmed up enough to dump.

O


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nuketech43

Baxley,Ga

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Posted: 06/25/08 11:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get you a 100# propane bottle and the extend a stay propane hookup. still considered self contained. Then use the 40# as backup till you can refill the 100# bottle.

MCrankyPants

Dayton OH USA

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Posted: 06/25/08 11:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As stated...if you dan skirt the underneath from wind, it makes a HUGE difference.
You can get creative and make it look nice for the park...spray-paint the blue insulation sheets.
Get pre-fab dog-eared fencing from home depot, cut the bottom off to the right height for your trailer, staple the insulation to the inside and skirt the trailer


2007 Teton Experience Sunrise pulled by 2003 Dodge 3500 Cummins HO 6-spd. 4x4
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