glenv
Ovid, NY USA
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Joined: 10/07/2003
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My wife an I are seriousy thinking about selling our home and buying an RV. If I buy a 40 footer I see no reason we could not be comfortable in it year round.
Problem is, for the next few years I must stay in the Northeast (Fingerlakes of NY) for the winter.
I realize water source supplies would need to be heat-taped etc but is there an RV that is "properly insulated in walls and underneath (all pipes etc) so it will not freeze in the winter for year round living?
Thanks!
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Locomotiveman
Willmar, MN
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Joined: 03/07/2005
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Quick answer?? NO. We Minnesotans stack straw bales around our mobilehomes/houses and still have cold walls and ceilings. We ran our Aqua-Hot full blast last Winter in Fargo,ND when it was -20F. The floor was warm...but there was FROST on the walls!! Ha!! Motorhomes are intrinsically poorly constructed/insulated compared to HighQuality tradional houses.(And we were 'dry-camping' ie Pipes/drains were drained and filled with Anti-freeze. Is a PREVOST warmer?? I've often wondered..account those Rock-Stars etc travel year 'round in them. TOM
Locomotiveman..Yes I am a career cross-country Locomotive Engineer. Wife is an RN. We are CLOSE to retiring and 'downsized' to a Monaco Executive w/450hp Cummins and nice drapes. Locomotiveman
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wny_pat
Western NYS
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You will find those that say yes, but in reality I do not believe you can do it. Not enough insulation in the roof and walls. If you were to buy a brand new unit, the dealer will require you to sign a statement stating that you do not intend to live in it like you would a regular home. Don't fall for the thermo-pane windows either. They don't stay that way very long. They lose the seal and fog up. In the case of the fingerlakesd, they would freeze up. And I do not care how much heat tape you use, you will not keep the water flowing.
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J Walker
Oakton, Va
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As a minimum you need to look at upscale MHs that have insulated and heated basements, thermopane windows, and well insulated walls, ceiling and floor. How successful those will be in some of the worst cold temps I cannot say. The only way to know is to find someone who has tried it and succeeded. There are a lot of MH out there that are very good for three seasons and I have one of them.
Jim Walker
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Lou3NLyn1
USA
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Before we went full time, we were working at the West Omaha KOA and living in our Stixs N Brixs during the winter. There were something like 20 RVs that were there all winter, even when it was -30. They were designed for full time living and seemed to do alright. They did insulate the sewer line as well as the water line and you only open the gray water valve to dump.
These were traveling nurses and construction workers. The smart ones also called the local propane company and ordered a 250 or 500 gallon tank and used it. Lots of propane burned.
Lou
Lou & Lyn
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tom_kat
way upstate new york/lake george area
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the walls of rvs doesnt have much insulation in them most are r-7 if that, some a little more, i found the roof has the most insulation in mine then the floors,made my own thermal pane windows from plexiglass and it made a big differance along with some really good insulated curtains we made special they worked out good but there a little bulky,a heated basement is a big plus for cold weather,most rvs dont have a big enought furnace for the cold we get up here i would get the largest one they make for wintering over up here.it can be done but the cost of heating will be really high for gas and electric for heating when it gets below 20 degs or so, above 20 deg mine works pretty well and stays warm and comfortable.i wouldnt use straw or hay around the bottom its a fire hazard i would make up some panels out of foam instead to make it warmer under the rv.we never had frost on the walls or windows thats from to much moisture trapped inside a dehumidifyer would help if you get those problems.liveing in one during cold weather that last for 7-8 months at a time isnt easy you get cabin fever real quick from such a small space,you need to get out a lot and not stay home much.trying to find a rv park or trailer park thats open for the whole winter that will allow you to stay will not be easy up here in ny.
1985 Class A Holiday Rambler Imperial 33 +1979 Class C Holiday Rambler Statesman 1000 = 24 ft
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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I too will join the "NO chorus"
The rig below is insulated, and is rated for 20 degrees (F) If I'm stuck in Detroit I drain and blow the water lines. This means no shower, no wash water, no drinking water, no toilet water I can take it down another 10 degrees but NY winters often get a whole lot cooler than that.
Now: If you can find a seasonal campground.. It is possible to do it.. But there is a trick to it
First: You winterize, blow all the water lines, drain all the tanks, NO WATER IN RIG.. You use the park shower and toilet, You lug water for cooking and dishwashing and dump dish water EVERY DAY right after doing the dishes You then drain your dump hose so the only water in the rig is the water in the trap on the kitchen sink and water in a pail or 30 cup party perk inside the rig.
If you do this you also want to get a Marshall Brass "Extend-a-stay" or equivlent propane adapter and at least a 20 pound portable tank (25 or 50 would be better) you will normally leave the portable tank hooked up but turned off.. Should you run out of gas (propane) you can open that tank to get you through the night till you can get to the Re-Fill station in the AM. (Been there... Done that)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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Daveinet
il
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Camped in 5 degree weather with a 30 mph wind and no problem till I hit the road. Then the valves finally froze but the tank where still liquid. Windows get cold, but the walls are fine. Of course not many motorhomes have 6 inches of fiberglass in the floor and a totally enclose undercarriage.
But that does bring up a point, look for a coach where the underside basement is fully enclosed. Monocoque chassis will likely be more air tight than a chassis on a production frame. For most modern coaches, plan on heating it up and then sealing up the swiss cheese with Great Stuff any where you feel a draft. Once it gets cold out, you will feel all the drafts where the factory had no clue and start caulking. My dads coach we've emptied two cans of Great Stuff, and still have drafts coming in.
Most important is to think through the floor plan and make sure it is usable with the slides IN! You will not be able to use the slides in freezing rain, and likely you won't want to use them if it is windy. Many slides you can see daylight underneath which is a joke. Shop at night and make them turn on all the interior lights, so you can look in under the slides for poorly designed seals. Monaco, Winnie, and Sportscoach used to be really bad about this. They are better now, but you still need to look.
Dave
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Kanata
Ottawa, Ontario
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You might look at a Triple E MH. They are made in Winkler Manitoba. Gets cold there. Triple E
"Born of our northern heritage, Triple E’s exclusive Climate Guard® system is quite simply the best interior comfort and exterior protection package available in the recreational vehicle industry today. The Climate Guard® system has been developed with today’s motorhome enthusiast in mind. It provides year round climate controlled comfort for passengers as well as built in protection for the motorhome itself, ensuring years of trouble free operation and enjoyment."
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Norm Payne
Livingston, TX
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I spent two winters in Indiana in my Dutch Star motorhome. The interior stayed warm and comfortable and I never had a problem with moisture. The basement is insulated and heated so I did not have any plumbing problems.
The coldest it got was -10 degrees and the largest snowfall was 14". I used one small electric heater and the furnace sure drank a lot of LP. I had an extend-a-stay and a large external LP tank. I think the motorhome (and me) would have pulled through if it had dropped to -25 degrees, but it is not fun. I prefer the sunny south.
Norm
2005 Dutch Star 4015, Cummins ISL 370 hp
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