RJsfishin
Winston Or.
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Joined: 10/16/2007
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If the thermostats (round buttons) are working correctly, it is nearly impossible for the heater to NOT shut off when the water temp gets to 140 deg, because the thermostats shut off the 12v current to the 12v gas valve.
Therefore, if the stats are not defective, and the heater stays on, the 12v gas valve is sticking in the on position, and needs replaced.
Muther board ???  You been around puters too long 
Rich
'98 Flair, 454, Onan Microlite 4k, Intel PD 9155 w/ wizard, Sta-power 1500 watt Inv, 2 6v batts, ammeters, KingDome/sat, Oly Catalytic Heat, hauling 2 Bent Bikes and sometimes towing a Tracker F&S boat.
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sonuvabug
Mid-Western, ON Canada
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Joined: 06/08/2006
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OK ... maybe mother board is the wrong term but I'm talking about the black box about 8" tall x 4 inches across located in the upper right corner of the outside panel. (ECM?)
The Atwood instructions I do have say to check and clean all the contacts before replacing this module. What is it and what does it do?
1993 Glendale Royal Classic Ford E350; 460EFI; E4OD;
Drives 26'/Sits 29' with rear slide; Michelin LTX/M&S; New Monroe "SC2955" Damper & anti-sway bar bushings; Rebuilt Rear Leafs; Bilstein B46-1613/14; Should be "pristine" by 2009 or 2010 or ... 
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Farmerkev
Illinois
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Joined: 04/04/2007
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Mine needed a new pressure relief.
Do the temp test as was suggested and that will tell you what you need to know.
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thomass38
Redding California
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Joined: 07/17/2003
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Seems unclear to me as to how much water is escaping and how hot the water temp is. If the amount of water is less than a cup and the temp is well below the boiling point then the problem is simple to take care of. However, if the water volume is a lot more and the water is boiling, then there is a big problem. The T&P valve will open for either pressure or temp being too high. Sometimes this happens when a RV water heater has no air in the top of the water heater tank nor an expansion tank. Then there is not a problem with the water heater just drain and refill the tank to remove the water log condition. This problem with expansion happens when the water is heated to the normal temp and there is no where for the expanded water volume to go and the water pressure will rise above the pressure on the T&P valve and release a small amount of hot water. A very common problem.
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javaseuf
California's Gold Coast
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Joined: 03/30/2005
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The control board has nothing to do with temperature regulation. Itls purpose is to provide spark to the burner and open the gas-valve.
Steve
2007 Springdale 291RKL
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"Politically Incorrect And Proud Of It"
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sonuvabug
Mid-Western, ON Canada
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thomass38 wrote:Seems unclear to me as to how much water is escaping and how hot the water temp is.
The water took between 30-45 minutes to fully heat up and then it boiled over. Lots of water ... very hot.
thomass38 wrote: The T&P valve will open for either pressure or temp being too high. Sometimes this happens when a RV water heater has no air in the top of the water heater tank nor an expansion tank. Then there is not a problem with the water heater just drain and refill the tank to remove the water log condition.
Sounds straight forward and I will recreate the air pocket in the tank. My concern right now is that the water heater doesn't even ignite. At least before, it would ignite, fully heat up and then release the hot water/pressure.
javaseuf wrote:The control board has nothing to do with temperature regulation. Itls purpose is to provide spark to the burner and open the gas-valve.
OK, thanks for that. I can probably eliminate that from the problem right now.
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