505live
Albuquerque, NM
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Joined: 07/18/2008
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Howdy,
I've been searching / reading all the outstanding info on DIY B's. I've been researching this and performing some hack-work since acquiring my van last October. The vehicle is a 1993 Ford Clubwagon E-350 with the pre-powerstroke IDI diesel. At a mere 194,000 miles it's practically new by IDI diesel standards.
It was formerly a gov vehicle, and while it had the extended top the roof was uncut and the factory headliner remained. It was apparent that assorted electrical equipment had been housed in the space between the two...
My primary use for the vehicle is as a road-trip / camping vehicle for going to triathlon and cycling events (one major criteria for the conversion is to be able to transport bikes inside the vehicle). I also like being able to have lots of open space for utility. Subsequently, my goal has been a very simple modular conversion that can be emptied out or at least moved out of the way sufficiently to make way for large item transport.
I removed the headliner and cut the roof out from the inside, leaving a large shelf area along the left side, as well as the area over the cab and one rib in the back. Put down some plywood for for a semi-flat surface, and stuck some fabric up w/ adhesive back velcro for curtains. Idea has been get it minimally functional to figure out what works, and what I really want.
I also installed a used AGM optima yellow top and a few lights.
I'd like to remove the factory interior panels in the back, insulate and install new walls, as well as insulate and panel over much of the rear windows to improve climate privacy. I would like to install headliner material and perhaps cabinets along the top areas. Eventually a small fridge and stove may be in order.
I have been hugely impressed with the DIY B's I've seen assembled here. My biggest question is (since I have no woodworking skills):
1: How do you match all the curves and contours so nicely with your wall panels and cabinets?
And,
2: What are some recommended materials and resources for them? Luaun paneling seems popular (local home improvement?).
Where can I get sufficiently large pieces of foam backed headliner, and is it acceptable to attach it directly to the fiberglass roof with 3M spray adhesive?
What is recommended for insulating materials?
As this is pretty minimal, (and I'm on the cheap) what might be recommended for a (relatively) inexpensive converter/charger?
3: What are some of the minimum "must-do" / "must-haves" in peoples' experience to create a reasonably comfortable B?
Being quite new to this I really appreciate any help!
Nate
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hoosiermark
Batesville ,Indiana
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Joined: 06/23/2008
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I talked with a guy who had converted several. He stated he took regular rolls of insulation (3.5 inches thick fiberglass) and then screwed 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch panels to the metal ribs. He then used spray adhesive and glued carpet to it. I saw his 2002 which was done 6 years ago. It looked nice. I went to sportsmobile.com for info. They have a great design section to play on. I lay out various interior plans to see how they look. I have an 05 Chev reg length I plan to convert so please keep posting as you progress please.. Also see my post about DIY van extension on this site. One man commented on using trifod aluminum ramps for a bed frame. I have also seen beds that hinge from the wall. That would allow you a lot of room to work on your bike and then push it all together to use the bed. A good dual purpose application. I would think you might want to consider a couch that made into a bed. Give you a place to rest during the day and a bed. I also plan on a reversible fan I think they are called fantastic fans. I think when I do it I will put a switch by the drivers seat that allows me to leave the fan on full time but control power while driving. That way If stuck in traffic I can create air flow to help the AC. The regular switch would work when I am back by the fan also.
HoosierMark
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tonyandkaren
pennsylvania
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Joined: 05/15/2005
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Don't know about any of the other things but here's a source for headliner material. http://www.stockinteriors.com/headlinerfabric.asp
We ordered a kit ( fabric and glue ) for our truck and redid the headliner. It came out very nice. The glue is really sticky so get some help if possible.
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thriftydutch
Ontario, Canada
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Joined: 12/27/2003
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I for 0ne would not use the foam backed headliner. I have it in mine on the ceiling and walls and doors and all the foam has dried out and disintagrated. It has left the material wrinkling and just hanging there. I can show you pictures of what it looks like when the foam dries out.
I have reupholsterd all my doors with a product called Newfoam which can be bought at Walmart and is not suppose to dry out. It comes in 1" thick but can be used at only half the thickness. I glued it with contact cement.
1990 L.E.R. Dodge B 250 Class B 17'
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Flyfisherman128
Broadalbin, NY
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Joined: 08/09/2005
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I converted a 1990 Dodge van. It came with an electric bed. I added cabinetry, stove, refrigerator, water, auxilary batteries and inverter/converter and outside shower. I had the equipment to fabricate the cabinetry and the mechanical skills to do the work. As far as the wall panels, it came with fabric covered walls. I had to make templates of the curved walls and make cabinets to fit. Was pretty easy but time consuming. Unfortunately I never took pictures of the operation.
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505live
Albuquerque, NM
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Joined: 07/18/2008
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Thanks for all the info!
Thriftydutch, does the newfoam have a finished surface or do you have to apply upholstery over it? I know many of our local walmarts have eliminated the fabric departments, or is this in some other department?
Flyfisherman, what do you use to make the template? I've tried cardboard and a blade without very good results, but perhaps I'm not sufficiently patient.
Out of curiosity, I frequently see functioning slide-in pickup bed campers going on the local craigslist for a few hundred bucks, has anybody considered buying one of these to scavenge the appliances / electrical / plumbing systems? If I can buy one of these with a functioning converter, fridge, stove, sink/plumbing bits for $400-500 it seems worth it..
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bananadanna
Cambridge, MA
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Joined: 11/30/2005
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505live wrote:
My primary use for the vehicle is as a road-trip / camping vehicle for going to triathlon and cycling events (one major criteria for the conversion is to be able to transport bikes inside the vehicle). I also like being able to have lots of open space for utility. Subsequently, my goal has been a very simple modular conversion that can be emptied out or at least moved out of the way sufficiently to make way for large item transport.
I removed the headliner and cut the roof out from the inside, leaving a large shelf area along the left side, as well as the area over the cab and one rib in the back. Put down some plywood for for a semi-flat surface, and stuck some fabric up w/ adhesive back velcro for curtains. Idea has been get it minimally functional to figure out what works, and what I really want.
I also installed a used AGM optima yellow top and a few lights.
I'd like to remove the factory interior panels in the back, insulate and install new walls, as well as insulate and panel over much of the rear windows to improve climate privacy. I would like to install headliner material and perhaps cabinets along the top areas. Eventually a small fridge and stove may be in order.
I have been hugely impressed with the DIY B's I've seen assembled here. My biggest question is (since I have no woodworking skills):
1: How do you match all the curves and contours so nicely with your wall panels and cabinets?
And,
2: What are some recommended materials and resources for them? Luaun paneling seems popular (local home improvement?).
Where can I get sufficiently large pieces of foam backed headliner, and is it acceptable to attach it directly to the fiberglass roof with 3M spray adhesive?
What is recommended for insulating materials?
As this is pretty minimal, (and I'm on the cheap) what might be recommended for a (relatively) inexpensive converter/charger?
3: What are some of the minimum "must-do" / "must-haves" in peoples' experience to create a reasonably comfortable B?
Nate
I think I'm a pretty good poster boy for the no-skills conversion. My first project. I realized that some things would be too difficult for me, so I left some $$$ to hire a small amount of skilled labor here and there.
The walls and ceiling of mine have L-track attached with blind rivet nuts. The track has 1/4" flanges and divide the wall curves into three and run front to back as possible. That means the heavy vinyl/closed cell foam/luaun ply panels could be simple rectangles with almost 1/4" tolerance.
The 90 degree curve from sidewall to ceiling uses a specialty "wackywood" plywood from Boulter Plywood near me. All the plies run in the same direction---takes the curve with ease.
I hired an upholstery shop to do the three panels with windows. They did some kind of steaming thing and you'd think the vinyl was vacuum formed. Magic beyond me.
My walls are foamed with Dow Great Stuff and I "buttered" some isocyanurate panels with it to attach to the ceiling. Could write a whole chapter on how incredibly sticky the stuff is. I whitewater canoe and it was important to me to stop the wet boats I threw inside from transferring moisture to the van skin. I got a very good deal on Polaris JetSki vinyl that resists water, sun, salt. Two years and no mildewy smell like the old Econoline.
My wife's favorite addition is a tossup between the Fantastic Fan and the German diesel heater. Add in some Motion T-windows or similar.
We only added a sliding door window and centered opposed windows. Sufficient light but much easier to heat and much less of a solar oven. This allowed use of the smaller d4 furnace.
I skipped propane plumbing, running water, and occasionally carry a rolling grey tank. I paddle year round in New England until the rivers go solid and didn't want to deal with winterizing.
The money saved from this decision was promptly spent on a 420 ah agm bank and a 2000w Prosine inverter/charger. This allowed micro, expensive Engel fridge, mag induction for the "inside" kitchen. This big nut gives you "stick house" power. And peace of mind with the luxe Prosine.
You'll see from my sig that we expand outward in camp. We have a plumber's propane locker to carry a bbq tank. Makes a fine metal "safe", too. We donated our almost empty bbq tank to my SIL in DC last week. Wanted to go through the Baltimore and Lincoln tunnels to move the niece to Manhattan. Nice city option.
We both road bike and I usually put the two bikes inside strapped to the wall atop the folding benches. We added a swing-away Yak hitch rack for this last trip. Really expensive but bought for half price. Hummpppff. Well, it works pretty well and I think I'm convinced to leave it on.
I was a sight on 34th and Park with two canoes, two bikes, full month long camping gear....and an entire studio apt in the Sprinter. My idea of the essential camper.
Since I had no woodworking skills it didn't seem to make any difference if I tried aluminum instead. Hand tools work slow---a bonus for me. Folding benches.
Dan
02 Freightliner Sprinter 2500 long tall home brew conversion
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thriftydutch
Ontario, Canada
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Joined: 12/27/2003
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(Thriftydutch, does the newfoam have a finished surface or do you have to apply upholstery over it? I know many of our local walmarts have eliminated the fabric departments, or is this in some other department? )
You have to apply upholstery over it. It is in the fabric department.
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505live
Albuquerque, NM
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Joined: 07/18/2008
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Bananadanna, thanks for the info, I have been reading many of your posts and Sprinter conversion stuff in the archive. A very good example of the direction I'd probably like to go. I'm particularly jealous of the eberspacher and the engel fridge... I know what you mean about great stuff, I've used some of it already in installing the plywood shelving over the metal roof. I now have a pair of pants dedicated to "great stuff" work.
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ffjeff
Coloma, CA
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Joined: 09/30/2006
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Looking at your pictures the van looks very nice. I did notice that there are no supports for the roof. Ford is very specific as to how much roof can be removed before structural integrity is lost. If your near a Ford dealer, ask to look at a body buiders manual and see what the recommend to make the vehicle safe. Without a steel hoop system from side wall to side wall, that van in an accident or rollover will not protect you very much.
I was just sent a note, the the Ford Body Builders Books are now online and free to download.
* This post was
edited 07/19/08 08:32am by ffjeff *
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