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 > Thinking of fulltime RVing to stretch retirement funds

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Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/14/08 07:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I'll play it safe and get a honda 1000w.

here's an interesting thread on boondocking and power:

Boondocking power


Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/14/08 10:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I took a quick look at leveling jacks, and it looks like I can use a single pair that mounts transversely under the rear of the chassis, bolted to the rails. Mechanicals can probably be run up and down with one of my DeWalt 18v. 3/8 drills and a socket.

Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/14/08 10:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I also found this old but clean and low mileage 77 Beaver, with 440ci engine, for about $1500. Lower price and older than what I was looking for, but ...

Good cheapClass C
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160270232247&fromMakeTrack=true

Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/14/08 11:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Where do they hide those batteries on a class C? there are 4-6 of them and they're each bigger than a car battery.

WTTCS

freedom , U.S.A.

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Posted: 08/15/08 09:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LOL I just cant imagine a 22 or so class C with 6 golf cart batteries carried on the rear bumper.
I think you are over engineering this thing, Just get you a good 2000Watt gen., Honda, Yamaha, Kiper and go. Heck anything that breaks you can just fire up the gennie and use your tools to fix it.

It aint brain surgery !!!


1997 chev crew cab 454, 5 sp. 4.10
2000 Fleetwood Caribou 11.5


Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/15/08 09:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The rear bumper? That's where they mount batteries?

I was figuring a Honda 1000w. Some of the used RVs come with the old generator, but I supposed that it would be old, noisy, maybe defective. Instead of repairing it maybe it would be best to carry a standalone generator. But then, that takes up precious space.

Maybe solar is too ambitious.

Sea Dog

Ontario Can.

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Posted: 08/15/08 10:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not be hung up on the milage of an older unit.

Sitting is harder on a machine than running.
That is why taxis can run hundreds of thousands of miles without too much trouble.


Life is short,Death is long,
Take a vacation.

Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/15/08 04:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good point, Sea Dog!

I was just reading some automobile threads where guys say they are switching to 0w30 sump oil because it reduces startup friction, and that's the most critical time in an engines life. I have ALWAYS (that's about 50 yrs.) warmed up my engine for at least 30 seconds before moving off. Which may account for the good mileage I get out of engines. My Daily Driver is an 85 with 174k miles, runs smooth and strong, and feels like it'll last forever. Probably a good time to sell it!.

Sea Dog

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Posted: 08/15/08 07:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On the recommendation of the head mechanic, known him since he was a kid, at my Ford dealer, I run 15/40 in my /93 460.
I know this is not considered too smart by many.
I also know I can hammer down from Ontario to Florida and not use a drop of oil at 224,00 K, about 135,000 miles.

I am no chemist , nor am I an engineer I have however run a lot of heavy engines and I just cannot bring myself to using oil with the consistancy of kerosene.

I am religous about changing oil at five thousand K or three thousand miles.

When I ran jimmie diesel engines in our boats, I often changed after two weeks if we were working long hours.

Fezziwig

SF bay

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Posted: 08/15/08 08:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I add a little lube through the gas in the form of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), about 6-8 oz. at a fillup. Seems to work good. I've had some rough running used engines that smoothed out after a few weeks with that treatment.

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