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 > And so... The project begins

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Hey there

Pendergrass, GA

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Posted: 08/08/08 03:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi again,

Just read your trip report! You had a GREAT adventure. I'm so happy for you!

Alberta is so beautiful! And West Edmonton is my favorite mall!!

Kurt


2001 Silverado 3500 DRW CC LB 6.0
1993 Lance Squire Lite 150 (8'6")
2001 Fleetwood Caribou 11J (11'6")

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 08/11/08 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well finally got the TC unloaded (bit tricky - steep driveway + damaged jack) For those who are going to give me hell for how it's done - I'm going to put together a decent steel frame for it to sit on this weekend...

Unfortunately now that I've had a chance to get under it proper and have a look; looks like my initial thought on black tank damage was way off not a leaky fitting unfortunately:


Any thoughts on how to go about fixing this - spoke to a couple RV dealers, they advise they wont be able to source one (? is there no such thing as an RV boneyard?). Would some epoxy + fiberglassing hold this together pretty much permanently?

Jack Damage/rot in the rear drivers side:




Poking around, looks like the rot is mostly confined to that wing stopping basically at the battery box (looks like a previous repair actually). I'm thinking this repair is fairly straight forward - remove trim/siding & jack, replace the plywood & probably the 2x2 that reinforces the corner and provides mounting surface for the jack (going to try not to replace the whole chunk, I'm hoping a splice will be possible...).

Anyone have thoughts/opinions/suggestions?

Andy

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 08/23/08 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey... This isn't bad - only took me 12 days from unloading to DOING something with the TC



Finally got some nerve and motivation to get moving on repairing the damage from smacking around the jack...

Some siding off:


Little bit of plywood off:


By the looks of it - this is repair #4; all because of a sheared bolt for the surlift jack... No a bit of silicone wasn't going to keep water out for long...

Debating whether I want to go as far as re-rebuilding the underside of the battery box - woods ugly; however it hasn't rotted...

Anyway, Hiho hiho it's off to the lumber yard I go... Need some 3/4 ply, some 2x2; and lots of pl400...

* This post was edited 08/23/08 04:47pm by AndyLyyc *

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 08/24/08 01:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, as usual - got deeper in as we went



Yes - I will never claim to be a carpenter (millwright/iron worker tyvm) Which is entertaining my neighbour to no end (he's a journeyman carpenter). There may have been a fit after cutting a splice only to find out I forgot about the crown and it screwed everything up and had to be recut (damn splice took me hours!).

Slowly making headway, got some touchups to make obviously, and I'm reworking things to fit that 3rd battery in the battery box while I've got it apart.

Oh did I mention I picked up a sunforce 60w solar kit yesterday? Currently it's charging up my toyota, however once I get this done - it's going up on the roof.

Andy

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 08/25/08 07:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Getting the siding on in a hurry (rain). Went to put the J trim on the lower edge and... Question Arrises - does the J trim along the lower edge of the TC need sealant?

The current molding has some sealant at the leading edge of the rear wing - however the majority is unsealed... ?!? Wouldn't I want some butyl or similar in there to keep the rain away from the wood?

Thanks in advance,

Andy

Stim

NE Florida

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Posted: 08/26/08 06:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A simple suggestion, Liquid Nail. I try to use it when possible, it can make wood joints much stronger. If you glue two pieces of wood together and let cure then pull apart, the wood will rip before the L. Nail comes apart. There are generic brands that seem to be as good.
Also drywall type screws instead of nails, much stronger.

Hey there

Pendergrass, GA

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Posted: 08/26/08 05:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi AndyLyyc,

I had similar work done on my Fleetwood. $911.00 So you saved a couple of bucks and more than likely, did a better job.

Kurt

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 08/26/08 06:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Actually all said - it wasn't that bad of a repair - I think I'm running about 50$ all said and done... Course I'm probably forgetting 50$ in medical supplies to treat all the cuts/scrapes from the aluminum siding I've incurred

Stim - PL Premium is my friend It's all screwed / glued; there are a few staples in there for alignment purposes (and of course attaching the siding).

AndyLyyc

Calgary

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Posted: 09/03/08 05:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well just got home from trip #2

Electrical issues, and that damn escape hatch is still leaking (apparently patching isn't going to cut it). Got some kind of ground issue - trucks not charging the TC, water pump is having a ground issue on occasion, two lights are not working (no ground)... And the best part of all - if DW leaves the water pump on - I have a visual notification... Brake lights come on

JoeChiOhki

Keizer, Oregon

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Posted: 09/03/08 06:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check your primary ground and check the ground on the skin to make certain its still good.


CB Channel 17 Space Ghost
'1991.5 Dodge W-250 Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed V8 5.9L 4spd H.D Auto 4x4 4.10 Gears
'1974 KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in
'1987 Pullman Mini Camper
'2004 Bi-Mart 4x8 Cargo Trailer


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