Axleone
Only a stupid
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Joined: 08/20/2007
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Mine have done the same thing on the high setting. I took them apart last trip and this is what i found. the low setting goes through a resistor to slow the fan on low. the high setting routes it through a small disc capacitor that is overheating. if you put a small drop of water on it it will cool and turn the fan back on. my soulution was to bypass the cap altogether. i belive its there for electrical noise rejection, so it doesnt interfere with any other electrical accessories. so far mine have been great. no slowing or electrical issues with the mod as of yet. i havent figured out why the thing has problems in the first place, but the bypass works????
2005 Nissan Quest
2005 Forest River Shamrock 17
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2Bcomfy
Alton Il
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Joined: 02/15/2004
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We have used the heck out of ours in our Jayco for the past 4 years. Never any problems. Will a Jayco fit yours?
Of course, now that you have talked about it, they probably won't work on the next trip! 
2006 Chevy 1500 Z71 crewcab
2004 Jayco Jay Feather 23D
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bob975
maryland
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Joined: 11/13/2007
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I just had to get a new one from my dealer under warranty hope if the other two go bad it happens over the next year.
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madbare
Rollinsville, Colorado
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Joined: 04/05/2006
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I have had issues with my first set as well, second worked, but now is having issues. I took it apart like above and saw that they route the grounds through the switches. The low speed is routed through a 39 ohm resistor and the high is run through something that looks like a capacitor. Well, as you all know a capacitor is a DC block so it is not a capacitor. It might be some kind of MOV. It is the culprit and is overheating. I just bypassed this part and it works fine on high now. As a EE, I am not sure exactly what component this is, but it does look like a cap, but the markings are different. I cannot figure out why anything would be needed here. If you are the least bit handy, you can re-configure your unit to work fine. If anyone want pics, let me know.
Steve
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Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Joined: 03/15/2002
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So I can just clip the lead?
Pics are always welcome!
-- Chuck
'06 Roo 23SS behind '07 Expedition out of Cleveland
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madbare
Rollinsville, Colorado
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Sorry for the delays guys, I was on Vacation last week and when we moved to a new park the Wi-Fi access was horrible and I could not connect to anything. Basically, you need to just bypass the component. You cannot just clip the lead, but clip the component out and reconnect it. I did a temp fix while on the trip but I'll take a few pics and post them on the right way to do it. It is easy and they worked fine the rest of the trip.
Steve
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madbare
Rollinsville, Colorado
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Ok Pics are up in my webshots gallery. I commented on each one. Let me know if you have any questions. Link to gallery is in my profile.
Steve
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oakmandan
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
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Joined: 10/23/2007
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Does anyone if you can get an A/C version of these?
Thanks, Dan
* This post was
edited 09/02/08 02:17pm by oakmandan *
Dan and Janelle
Lily and Sherman the smelly Bassets
2005 Ford Escape XLT, AWD, V-6
1994 Skamper 22C Plan D
Nights camped in 2008 .... 16
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Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Just soldered one after cutting out the MOV (or whatever). The little harness unplugs so soldering was easy. I just clipped the device out at the piece itself and wrapped it around the resistor lead. Ran it 20 minutes with no apparent issues. The other remains unmodified -- that piece is there for some reason!
Reminds me of the early Mr. Coffee units with a similar part. Nearly new MCs were in garage sales for a buck or two 'cuz they didn't work. But several folks knew the part number of that little thingie.
-- Chuck
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madbare
Rollinsville, Colorado
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OK I found out exactly what that piece is. It is a polyswitch resettable device by Raychem circuit protection. It is a device that senses over-current and cuts the current flow. I looked and found the specs on this device and it seems to be rated too low for this application. That is why these are having issues. This part is rated for 300mA hold current and starts to trip at 600mA. I could not find any specs on the assembly, but I am willing to bet the fan on high is drawing close to .5 amps or more. Also as the ambient temp goes up the part starts to de-rate and the hold and trip current drop. I would not worry about removing this component as the circuit on my (and hopefully your) trailer is fused if there was a big issue it should blow the main fuse. I guess if you really need something there you could wire a axial leaded fuse in that spot and have the same protection but it would not be resettable and you would have to take it apart to replace the fuse. I hope this helps.
Steve
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