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Oswald38

3rd Rock

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Posted: 08/29/08 08:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree the extend a flow should work. They are made for just what you are wanting to do.

Southwind85

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Posted: 08/29/08 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Coveman6 wrote:

Thanks to both SOUTHWIND85 and DJEVANS for their quick response I have a stay awhile from my dual tanks when I had a trailer but this is a motorcoach and there is no room between the tank outlet and the regulator. That means no way to disconnect regulator. I need a tee of some kind that can be installed between the regulator and the coach/appliances. The only way I can see is to tap into the rubber hose leading from the output of the regulator to the furnace.


The regulator screws into the tank outlet valve. Unless I'm missing something basic here like physically no room for the added length or you have some kind of weird design; just close the valve, disconnect the regulator, put the stay-a-while onto the high pressure side of the regulator, put the stay-a-while into the outlet valve, open valve, attach appliances as desired. Done.

Tapping into the rubber hose side won't do much good. You need to connect from the high pressure side, not the low pressure side.


The Good Life

wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 08/29/08 11:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

http://www.marshallbrass.com/rv.htm

Scroll down a bit to find the products, You want the Extend-a-STAY Take picture of it to any RV dealer and they will have 'em in stock, this includes CAMPING WORLD who is a sponsor of this forum

NOTE: The Extend-a-flow will also do what you want, however the Extend-a-Stay has additional features which include

1: Excess flow valve, halts or seriously limits the flow of propane should a line rupture. safety feature, you rig may already have this feature,, OPD valves used on portable tanks today may or may not have an Excess flow feature, they do, have an excess TEMPERTURE feature however.

2: INLET, a check valve protected inlet valve allowing you to not only use your main tank to light your grill.. but to use a protable or other external tank to provide for your motor home.. Very useful if you run out of LP the day before you break camp (Been there, done that, hooked up the 25 pounder and was good to go)


Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


javaseuf

California's Gold Coast

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Posted: 08/29/08 12:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have had clearance issues with the regulator hitting the rock shield so I modified the plumbing with some 90 degree brass fittings to move the regulator higher up past the rock guard. This afforded me extra room for the Extend-A-Flow adapter.

Here is a picture of the 90-degree version. The outlet fitting has the Acme threads as well as the internal POL threads. Get this adapter and the additional hose and you are set.
You may need to get a longer rubber pig-tail if relocating the regulator.

My concern is your statement that there are rubber propane lines under your coach. This is not safe nor does it meet codes. All of the propane lines, other than the initital pigtail coming from the regulator, should be black-pipe until the taps for the appliances, which should then be copper as they go up through the floor.


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nbounder

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Posted: 08/29/08 12:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One of the previous owners of my coach did 'zactly what you're suggesting. My prob is that Propane is a scary thing to even a seasoned handyman like me. Unless I had access to a 'sniffer', which does a MUCH better job than soapy water, I'd steer clear of that project. Propane falls, and spreads around on the ground - it's not easy to detect. Ask a local plumber, who has a sniffer, for a quote.

Coveman6

Dallas FOrt Worth

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Posted: 08/29/08 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You may be an Old+++ but you are a goody. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words. I now see what all of the above are trying to tell me and I think I can handle that. I have worked with gass in the home and feel I can do this. My dealer suggest I wait for the Warranty to be up and then he will gas leak check it with a meter for me.

Thanks to all. I have really enjoyed this forum and will be trying to help others as I learn the fine science of owning a motorhome.

bukhrn

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Posted: 08/29/08 04:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did the Extend-A-Flow in about five minutes, works great.


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CRAMD

Saskatchewan,Canada

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Posted: 08/30/08 11:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

nbounder wrote:

Unless I had access to a 'sniffer', which does a MUCH better job than soapy water, I'd steer clear of that project.


I will have to agree,for the most part, with that statement.
Many times, instructions for detecting leaks in gas piping suggest mixing some dish soap in water and brushing/spraying the solution on any joints etc. in the installation.This solution is virtually useless for finding small leaks on connections, or casting flaws in fittings because the resulting solution is too thin,the bubbles are short lasting, and the solution will run off too easily.
There are leak detection solutions (one such product is called LeakTec,fantastic product, but very expensive)available to professionals, which are vastly superior to dish soap. They will work at temperatures down to about -40 degrees C/40 below zero F, and will find the most minute leaks if left in place long enough.They are often used after a leak has been detected with electronic leak detectors to pinpoint the exact location, as well as to judge how big a leak is present (small,slow developing bubbles equals very small leak,large rapidly developing bubbles is a large leak,soap blowing off before bubbles can form is trouble!).
I know that a lot of contractors in the plumbing industry used to rely on soapy solutions that can be mixed up cheaply to find leaks, as the really effective instruments and leak detection solutions are costly.Finding someone with the really effective soap and/or electronic equipment is a good idea.
As for how I know about these products etc.,I worked with natural gas for 36 years, and spent hundreds of hours, with both types of leak detection tools, looking for leaks both underground as well as above ground.





Coveman6

Dallas FOrt Worth

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Posted: 08/30/08 01:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Cramd

I live by the addage that a smart man learns from his mistakes but a wise man learns from the experience of others.

I bow to your wisdom.

Thanks

wa8yxm

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Posted: 08/31/08 10:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I usually use MR. Bubble or some such (Kids bubble solution) nice long lasting bubbles.. Some of them (Mr. Bubble I'm told is one) are not harmful

IF you are not sure, after detection, rinse well

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