dlineberrys
Colorado
New Member
Joined: 09/06/2008
View Profile
 Offline
|
Hey. Our RV refrigerator is belly-up. From what we have been learning, we most likely have a leak. There is yellow powder. The boiler works, everything else is working normal except we have no cooling capacity. We are fulltime RVers and are considering replacing it with a Magic Chef 10 cubic foot refrigerator we saw today at Home Depot. It fits perfectly in the space where our Norcold 9182 currently is. The dimensions are only off by a fraction in all measurements.
We are considering this primarily due to the cost. $339.00 vs. $1500.00. We have heard that it is not worth getting a refurbished model unless it was refurbished under warranty.....otherwise it has a lot of age on it and the other components break down.....motherboards, control panels, boilers, etc.
The only problem is that we are hearing that standard refrigerators just won't make it. We have heard that the compressor gets damaged every time you plug and unplug from shore power. It has been explained that it is similar to unplugging while your a/c is on. Is this true? Does anyone out there currently use a standard refrigerator in their RV and travel successfully? Is there any way to safely turn off a standard refrigerator to prevent damage? We are currently on ICE and could use the helpful hand of our RV neighbors to make this decision asap.
|
trop-a-cal
Palm Coast Fl
Senior Member
Joined: 09/24/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
The electric draw can be checked by looking at the specifications and comparing them. There are many that use stand alone home refrigerators exterior to the RV and just plug them in to the RV outlet. That confirms it has been done electrically. The ventilation of the heat they put out is the problem. They will need the existing vent to become an active vent, (one that has a fan)that pulls the air out of the refrigerator as they are in closed compartments. Yes it's doable, just make sure it will fit and is vented aggressively.
|
camping man
Central Fla.
Senior Member
Joined: 09/01/2001
View Profile
|
My buddy had one installed in his camper years ago, still no problems with it. You'll be fine. I think you might like it better, because it will cool down in a couple hours, not 12-24.
05 Dodge 2500 Quadcab CTD NV5600/3.73rears
97 27ft.Sprinter 5er
Website
|
Herculez
North Carolina
Senior Member
Joined: 08/13/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
We had one in a Layton TT. Drove all over. Went to FL from NC.
Also ran it on a Honda Gen while in route. If I had it my way, we would have one in our current rig.
Never a problem.
Britt
|
dlineberrys
Colorado
New Member
Joined: 09/06/2008
View Profile
Offline
|
This is very encouraging to hear. I have been up all night researching this. It is very hard to find any info. That is why I have turned to my fellow RVers for feedback. Please keep it coming!!!
|
|
|
beartruck
Madison, South Dakota
Senior Member
Joined: 11/15/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
We installed a residential 11 cu. ft. refer in our 5th wheel, two years ago, while keeping the standard RV one. There have been no problems. We keep the doors shut while traveling and it stays cold for eight hours. I think it would stay cold for much longer if needed.
|
Roadpilot
Lakes Region of New Hampshire
Senior Member
Joined: 09/16/2006
View Profile
Offline
|
Many MH's have residential refrig. - ours included. They work great. I would never go back to the vapor phase refrig. Way to many problems. The insulation on them is so much better, they rarely turn on when traveling. Just don't open the door, unless an inverter is providing power when traveling.
2007 Newmar Essex 45'
2006 Honda CR-V and 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500
2004 HD Electra Glide Ultra Classic
2006 HD Heritage Softail Classic
Overbilt Lift
|
hopefulbob
Wichita, KS USA
Senior Member
Joined: 08/05/2003
View Profile
|
AC household-type refrigerators work well in RV's. Don't believe the old wives tale that plugging and unplugging them will cause damage. Every time the thermostat cycles the refrigerator is turned "on" then "off".
There ARE two potential problems, one small problem, and one large problem:
1) You must make a provision to provide airflow over the condenser coil on the back of the fridge when mouning it in a cabinet. I wired a 120 volt computer fan, pulling air past the condenser and exhausting through louvers, through the fridge thermostat so that the computer fans runs only when the fridge compressor runs.
2) The second problem is much more difficult to solve, unless you are always connected to shore power or to an operating generator. Tou will need an inverter and a VERY LARGE battery bank to power the fridge when not connected to shore power or a generator. Typical fridge draws 350-400 watts when running. (read the nameplate on your fridge, and use this value) Assume 400 watts. This is 33 amps @ 12vdc, to which you must add about 15% for inverter inefficiency, which makes total draw from RV batteries approx 38 amps when fridge is running.
To power above fridge for 24 hours from batteries with a 50% duty cycle would draw approx. 450 amp-hours from the RV batteries. You should not draw batteries down below about 50%, therefore you would need a 900 ah battery bank. A PAIR of 6v golf cart (GC-2) batteries provides about 240 ah @ 12vdc. You would need four GC-2 battery pairs (8 batteries total, at about 500 lb) to power your fridge for 24 hours, with a bit left over for other loads.
Your fridge may draw less than 400 watts, and you may wish to assume less than a 50% duty cycle, nevertheless the above will give you an idea of the battery capacity required if you intend to operate fridge without a 120 vac power source.
|
wolfe10
Texas
Senior Member
Joined: 10/08/2000
View Profile
Offline
|
As suggested, determine the amp draw FIRST. That will give you the "fine print" on whether your electrical system will handle the load or whether you may have to spend more than the cost of an RV refrigerator on upgrading batteries, inverter, etc.
Posts by those with PERHAPS OTHER ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COMPONENTS are of interest, but will NOT answer the questions properly for YOUR rig.
How you use the rig is also important-- the percent of time plugged in vs boondocking needs to be considered.
Post amp draw and we can help with the math.
Brett Wolfe
1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
Cat 3116, Allison 3060
Caterpillar RV Engine Owner's Club: www.catrvclub.org
|
Jack_Diane_Freedom
Lindsay Ont, and Gulf Coast Florida
Senior Member
Joined: 05/11/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
We have installed a regular AC fridge/freezer in the basement area of our 5er and still have our regular Dometic inside the trailer. Have had this going now for about 3 years full timing and towing thousands of miles as we summer in Canada and Winter in Florida with lots of towing trips in between. I can tow all day for 10-12 hours with no power to the AC fridge and still have ice cubes. It holds the cold very well for a long time.
|
|
|
