homeagaincda
Canada
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Joined: 09/22/2008
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I see the current preferred method to winterize the waterlines is RV antifreeze. How is this better than blowing the lines with an air compressor (low pressure < 40 psi)? (I do have a compressor - so that isn't a problem).
It seems to me that this would be just as quick, and if there is not water, there is nothing to freeze. It sure would be quicker when opening the unit for the first trip in the spring, as I would not have to purge all lines of the pink antifreeze (it is methanol based - poisonous).
Antifreeze would still be required in the drains, toilet, etc. What am I missing in this logic that has everyone using the antifreeze approach? Is there some element in the system that won't be effectively drained with this approach?
Any advice?
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Flyfisherman128
Broadalbin, NY
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Joined: 08/09/2005
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There is always moisture that settles in the low spots in the line. RV antifreeze does not require dilution. An undertimed amount of moisture will affect the protection factor by an undeterminable amount. To get the maximum protection the antifreeze should be used at full strength. Blowing out the lines minimizes dilution. The antifreeze takes care of whats missed.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Joined: 02/25/2005
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Blowing out works fine. Don't forget to empty the Low-Point drains as their about the only place that will hold water if you blow it out. Also don't forget the outside shower like I did one year. 
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4 Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
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Lucky Mr H
Creston, IA
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Joined: 07/29/2008
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For the past two years, I have not used antifreeze in the 5er in anything but the traps. I leave the faucets open and the drain tubes open with the water pump disconnected from the pipes.
I have a camping friend who has a TT that does the same thing (He taught me camping).
It get's below -20 degree F here for extended periods. No problems.
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JFG
TN
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Joined: 07/01/2007
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RV antifreeze are basically Propylene Glycol, not methanol based. However, I use the blow out method. Its easy and quick and like you said when its time to hit the road, just add water and go.
Fred
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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How about put in the antifreeze and then blow it out?
Good old belt & suspenders method.
Feel free to ignor this post as we don't winterize our pipes on the So Cal coast.
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 Lariat Offroad 4x4 Tow Package 4.10 Truetrac
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
12K SuperGlide, KGE3000Ti 2.3kw rated 2.6kw max
Frank's voltage booster, Prosine 1800 powered by 4 GC2 batteries
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pfunk
Shelby Township, MI
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I winterize all the way. Diferent animal, but our boat even though all the low points are drained and lines blown out, you can have residual moisture that builds in an area. For the 10-20bucks in antifreez is well worth protecting my investments
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
300 Cat 6spd Ally
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jeanspach
New Mexico
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I prefer blow out method. I do put antifreeze in the drains and black and gray tanks however.
Joel & Leesa
2001 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat Offroad 4x4 5.4L 4.10 LSD Tow Package
2005 Trail-Lite 8308S 5,162# dry
2 Honda EU2000i, 4 GC2 batteries
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eubank
Angel Fire, NM, USA
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We blow out and follow up with antifreeze. But, then, we live in a VERY cold place (nighttime temps to around -30F in mid winter), so any tiny amount of residual water left in a line after blowout is very destructive. Speaking from less than happy experience ...
Lynn
http://forum.aardvarkrv.com/blog/
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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The only danger in blowing the lines is that you need to make sure you get them all blown out.. Forget one you have a problem
Thing is.. That applies to filling 'em with antifreeze too
Cost of air to blow 'em out.. Few cents
Cost of antifreeze to replace water several Dollars
Case closed (in my book)
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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