LarryJM wrote:



Hi Ken,

I'm still exploring the best way to do the roof to sidewall seam. I definitely wouldn't remove that molding. As I under stand it they run the edge of the rubber roof over the side and maybe use some sealing tape and the the metal molding and screws simply proved a method of securing the two together. What you don't want to happen is for water to get to the threads of those screws since over time they will rust and allow more and more water to get inside the trailer and that is really what that caulking at the top roof edge is really preventing.

Below are three alternatives I'm considering and haven't chosen the final one. In any case except option 2 I'm thinking where I have that vinyl insert in that moulding is to first pop the vinyl out of the molding and put a glob of silicone sealant around each screw and pop the vinyl insert back in the molding. All that vinyl molding really does unless I'm mistakened is to protect water from getting to the screws and by sealing them with silicone you have basically eliminated the screws as a source of water penetration. Based on my what I found in my last trailer over the years water can rust he screws and work it's way into the trailer and really cause more of a leak than you would think with just one screw issue and if you have any problems at the top of the trailer it can do damage all the water down.

1. You could just put the Eternabond over vinyl that is in the molding already from the bottom metal of the molding the vinyl goes into and run that up and onto the roof over the vinyl molding. This has some advantages since that vinyl molding will only last around 10 years and becomes brittle and eventually cracks. Putting the Eternabond over the vinyl takes this issue out of the equation.

2. You could also remove the vinyl insert and simply run the Eternabond over all that molding and up onto the roof. If one chooses this option you definitely don't was to seal the screws with silicone. Also this option will probably not look a good as options 1 or 2 since you will have ripples over the screws in the Eternabond.

3. What I'm seriously considering is running a 2" wide strip of Eternabond with the bottom just touching the vinyl molding up across the roof to sidewall joint and onto the roof. This will use the least width of Eternabond and I can do this by cutting what 4" wide Eternabond already down the middle. That way I could get access to those screws by popping the vinyl insert out from the bottom since one a very small amount of the Eternabond would be attached to the vinyl insert at the top maybe like 1/8". Also, if you look at that molding closely there should be about 1/4" of good metal on the molding before it hits the roof to sidewall seam. Now eventually I know that I will have to replace that vinyl molding and just having a very small amount of the Eternabond on that vinyl should not be an issue.

All three options you can also use over the awning section of your trailer since the awning rail is below the vinyl molding on most TTs and some 5ers have a separate awning rail completely separate and lower than that roof seam molding.

One issue somewhat unique to me is that I have installed The Rain Kap along the complete molding where the vinyl insert would normally be since that is how the Rain Kap is installed on the side opposite the awning and they recommended caulking a the very top in a small channel built into the Rain Kap for a better waterproof seal which I did, but used silicone caulk with is about the only thing that Eternabond won't stick to. On that side my plan is to remove the silicone caulk and put some non silicone caulk that Eternabond will adhere to in the channel to smooth out the surface and run a 2" wide strip of Eternabond starting somewhere on the top surface of the Rain Kap and up and over the roof to sidewall seam and onto the roof maybe 1/2".

Also, I have some minor bulges in my rubber roof right at the edge and I need to make sure I can get the Eternabond to properly bond to the rubber roof in the bulge areas and along that small metal surface at the top of the vinyl insert molding. In any option as long as you get a good roof seal and have the Eternabond going over the roof to sidewall seam and prevent water from getting in either end or the bottom of the Eternabond from coming loose that roof seam will be sealed. I had some bulges along the edges on the top of my slide and I removed that caulking and sealed those seams with a 2" wide strip of Eternabond, but there I had the 1" of the Eternabond on the slide roof and it bonded well and that was almost 3 months ago.

I've got an upcoming 2K trip next month and as a test unless I just do it is to run a very thin 2" wide strip, maybe 1/4 wide installed using option 3 and see how well it holds up. I might do the same at a place along my Rain Kap as a test,.

Larry

krazy_dave wrote:



Older topic, but I just wanted to let you know that I did your option number 3 of cutting the 4" Eternabond into 2" strips and sticking it just to the plastic strip.

Oddly enough 20 minutes after I stuck it on this morning it started pouring rain on me.

I think it actually worked better than even I expected!

rob85546 wrote:

I would... seems all them seams leak...my started last year on a 2002.......