siberian
SW Michigan
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HELP! I tried a search for my problem, no luck. So here it is, I have a Surban 6gal propane water heater. The problem is when I light it it keeps on heating till the T&P valve starts to drip. The heater doesn't shut down after heating the water! Anybody have a clue what I should do. The heater is in a 1997 Wildcat 5er.
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donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
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If and that is a big IF it has an adjustable thermostat, turn it down. Most of the newer units do not have any adjustments. The only solution is replace the t'stat.
Donn
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tvman44
Southwest Louisiana
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siberian wrote:HELP! I tried a search for my problem, no luck. So here it is, I have a Surban 6gal propane water heater. The problem is when I light it it keeps on heating till the T&P valve starts to drip. The heater doesn't shut down after heating the water! Anybody have a clue what I should do. The heater is in a 1997 Wildcat 5er.
Try a new thermostat or T&P valve or both.
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slotsavegas
Fort Worth
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Don't know if this will be a help or not. I have heard that the loss of an air space in the heater can cause this type of problem. Drain the tank using the drain plug. Install the plug and refill. Be sure it has cooled down before attempting to drain.
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joshjack
Alabama
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slotsavegas wrote:Don't know if this will be a help or not. I have heard that the loss of an air space in the heater can cause this type of problem. Drain the tank using the drain plug. Install the plug and refill. Be sure it has cooled down before attempting to drain.
Just my 2c - try what slotsavegas suggested but I think you want to replace the pressure relief valve. Should be easy to do.
J
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JFG
TN
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Measure the temp of your hot water. if around 140 degrees, your stat is ok... replace the PRV.
Fred
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scotty63
British Columbia Canada
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A slight amount of dripping from the T & P valve is normal. If you are getting a major amount it is possible that the valve is faulty. Like JFG said I would replace the valve. With all the different types of water we encounter it is possible that the valve is corroded. I also had this problem with a Suburban tank. Also check the anode rod to make sure it is still good
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smkettner
Southern California
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1. Replace the T&P
2. Add the small Surflo expansion tank/accumulator.
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siberian
SW Michigan
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Thanks gang, the replacement of the T&P valve is no biggie. What I'm more concerned about is the burner it self. When I light the water heater it just keeps on heating unless I turn the gas valve to the pilot position. Where is the thermostat in relation to the valve? The only wires I've found are from the spark ignitor.
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javaseuf
California's Gold Coast
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siberian wrote:Thanks gang, the replacement of the T&P valve is no biggie. What I'm more concerned about is the burner it self. When I light the water heater it just keeps on heating unless I turn the gas valve to the pilot position. Where is the thermostat in relation to the valve? The only wires I've found are from the spark ignitor.
This post is confusing for a few reasons.
If you can turn your control to the pilot position, then there should be no ignitor since that pilot position indicates that you have a standing-pilot water heater and not an electronically lit DSI model.
If you have a control that can be turned to the pilot position, then on the same control should be a knob or lever that adjusts the temperature.
A gas valve on a standing pilot water heater does have a safety cut-off feature that is incorporated into the gas valve. It is NOT replaceable on a manual gas valve.
My take is that you should try and re-establish the air cushion, and take a temperature measurment of the water.
If you do have a manually lit water heater, then the temperature of the water could be any level since you would have an adjustable thermostat.
If your thermostat was defective and the burner was not shutting down, you would have much more than a drip coming from the safety valve.
Steve
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