erupert
Churchville, Maryland
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Joined: 10/14/2003
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After replacing my flame detection probe and vaccuming out the area under the burner (Norcold 1200 Series), I am getting an occasional "flash" of flame near the air venturi (not sure of correct term, the slot that mixed air with the lp just before the burner). I tried running a pipe-cleaner through there. It's very rusty and I hate to have to drill out the screw to take it apart. Did I somehow disturb the air gap when replacing the other part? Any ideas on whether this is caused by blockage or too much/too little air in the mix?
Thanks
'01 40' HRC Endeavor PBDD 330 Cummins
'97 Jeep Cherokee - Auction Special
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Chris Bryant
DeLand, Florida, USA
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Joined: 03/26/2003
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You really have to remove the burner to get it clean sometimes. Even though the mounting screw is rusted, I've only had to resort to a drill once (out of many, many I have cleaned).
-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog
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JFG
TN
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Joined: 07/01/2007
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If your flame is blue, then air mix is correct.... if yellow or orange tips, then open air shutter more.
Fred
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kneal44
EAST CENTRAL TEXAS
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Joined: 01/24/2008
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eurpert,
my flame was spitting ... every second a puff or spit sound as flame was backfiring.
take burner out and look at it and compare the grattingor slots with picture of new. from Bryants web site. i noticed my burner tube was shot and all eroded so i replace it and was working great for the last 10 days now i have other issued that i will address myself hopefully.
when u play in the sand .... you can get stuck
9-24-08 corpus christi padre island texas. wrecker had to haul me out!
'92 dp 5.9 cummins 190 hp....8mpg yuck!
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erupert
Churchville, Maryland
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thanks for the info. The flame is blue, but I am thinking that there is still dirt in the burner as kneal44 indicated because it was working perfectly before all of the work related to replacing the flame sensor.
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erupert
Churchville, Maryland
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Hmm, still fussing with this. I have noticed something else, I think that the problem is power related. I am having trouble sometimes now with power coming on. If I wiggle around on the wires, I hear a "clicking" like a big relay. I am wondering if voltage is dropping and causing the gas valve to close and snuff the flame as it's perfectly blue, the flame sensor is in the right place, the burner area is clean and it's still shutting off intermittently, especially when driving.
I recently replaced the fuse that was blown b/c the A/C side wasn't working. It's working fine now but I am wondering what other conn. could be loose on the board of it's it just going bad internally (like a trace cracking).
Any more thoughts? I don't want to have to buy a new controller board if I don't need one. Should also note, the fridge won't power off from the controls on the fridge. It's been that way for about 2 years. The mode and temp switches work fine. When I called Norcold, I just got the "replace the board" speech and didn't want to spend a couple hundred $$ just to turn it off / on so I installed a 12v on/off switch in the external compartment.
PS- I just received the recall notice for the fridge too. Installation of a some type of thermal switch. Anyone have this done yet? Is the board replaced or is something simply jumpered on?
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rbdtanasi
Foley, AL
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Joined: 12/13/2000
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If you got the recall notice on this fridge, GET IT IN TO BE FIXED. Do not run it on AC, run it ONLY on propane until you get it fixed. There have been many fires caused by problems with this fridge and the fix is supposed to correct that. The fix will take about 2 hours, and can only be done by an RV Dealer as Norcold will only ship parts to a dealer. Go to the dealer of your choice and have them call Norcold with your fridge serial number and the cooling unit serial number. When dealer if finished, run fridge on AC and Propane long enough to make sure it is cooling.
The fix replaces part insulation on the flue stack, addition of a metal cup at the flue base, and a thermocouple.
Rex - 01 Monaco Diplomat being pushed by an 08 Honda CR-V
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erupert
Churchville, Maryland
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OK, so I pulled the burner tube out. A little dirt inside but not much. Cleaned it, re-assembled it and put it back together. Still doing the same thing. I shot a video of it to see if that helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHxBobD-X4I
Still wondering if it's related to the gas valve based on the way that it's "spitting".
Thoughts?
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erupert
Churchville, Maryland
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Joined: 10/14/2003
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Last update. Since I re-assembled everything, the fridge ran perfect all this past weekend. Still makes that spitting sound a bit, but never goes out. I also noticed in the tech docs that the spark detect should be about 1/8 to xx from the flame and mine was too high. I bent it down closer. I also removed all electrical connections from the back of the fridge and cleaned them all.
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