50pascals
rochester, ny
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Joined: 01/10/2008
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Promise me you guys won't be angry for showing you this site...........
Sensors
Displays
Complete Systems
Sorry, been digging around this site all day for an instrumentation and datalogging project.
Oh, you will have a problem shining IR sensors against the rotor surface. It's too shiny and will give a weird reading. Shine it at the edge, against the rusty cooling ribs.
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oemtech
Elgin, Texas
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Joined: 06/22/2002
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Hey guys I did not do the Monitor... It was by Dave Goss I just pointed to it.
Dale
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Daveinet
il
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While I understand the value of instrumentation grade sensors, some of this was just to find a really simple cheap way of staying out of trouble. I understand monitoring the pads, but what makes the brake fade? Is it the fluid boiling or does the actual friction coefficient deteriorate with heat. Which happens first?
othertonka wrote:I don't understand the "No engine drag" part. Can't you down shift the transmission to use the engine compression to hold you back and then just use the brakes once in a while to keep the speed/RPM's in check? Any clarification on that? I've not been able to explain it, but this engine has virtually no drag when downshifting. I've seen 6 grand (oops) on the tach, there is just no load holding it back. I've adjusted the throttle plates fully closed, the IAC goes to zero, but yet I feel no engine drag. Vacuum will go to ~23 inches. The old 454 had much more drag than this 502 does.
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othertonka
Stockton, CA
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Joined: 11/15/2003
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Daveinet wrote:While I understand the value of instrumentation grade sensors, some of this was just to find a really simple cheap way of staying out of trouble. I understand monitoring the pads, but what makes the brake fade? Is it the fluid boiling or does the actual friction coefficient deteriorate with heat. Which happens first?
othertonka wrote:I don't understand the "No engine drag" part. Can't you down shift the transmission to use the engine compression to hold you back and then just use the brakes once in a while to keep the speed/RPM's in check? Any clarification on that? I've not been able to explain it, but this engine has virtually no drag when downshifting. I've seen 6 grand (oops) on the tach, there is just no load holding it back. I've adjusted the throttle plates fully closed, the IAC goes to zero, but yet I feel no engine drag. Vacuum will go to ~23 inches. The old 454 had much more drag than this 502 does.
Boy that is a problem that I have no idea how to solve. Good luck
Othertonka
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hwybnb
Southern California
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Joined: 05/02/2001
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Jim@HiTek wrote:It would seem that you could just place a nice simple IR detecting LED close to the area, calibrate it to a hand held both in positioning and temperature, and then design a display circuit as simple as a comparator (or 4 comparators) that would sound an alarm.
Here's a nice IR detector, don't know the range though...part of the design process to find out. I'd think you'd need an industrial part too.
IR detector... It would be great if things were as simple as that but they are not. The IR spectrum is very broad. The type of detector in the link is designed for "near infrared". IR radiation produced by hot objects is in the "far infrared". That detector would not react to it at all. I am not saying it is impossible to design and build a low cost DIY monitor based on IR technology but it would not be a trivial task. There are industrial IR measurement components available (see the links in 50pascal's post) but they are expensive.
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Daveinet
il
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SO how about buying a relatively cheap IR gun and moving the sensor down to the inside of the wheel well. Seems according to HWYBNB that it would be more dependable than remote mounting a thermocoupler, as with a thermocoupler your dealing with very low voltage. Yes the thermocoupler, is more accurate and dependable when done right, but it seems like less hoops/precautions to jump through to remote mount it. Also it could be mounted on the frame, so you would have no wire movement. The disadvantage is no alarm. Depending on how broad of and area you are scanning, it could give you a warning of eminent bearing failure as well.
* This post was
edited 10/01/08 04:25pm by Daveinet *
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imjustdave
USA
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I hate to ask but why not start slower when going down a hill? at first I assumed thiswas a diesel pickup and I was going to sujest an exhaust brake but its gas. so I have to ask once you have the numbers what are you ging to say is green yellow red for heat? once your at some value of yellow your going to either going to have to stop so you don't hit red or hope your at the bottom of the hill..... honestly just drive it, and start slower on the hills if you ever get brake fade then your going way to fast to start with and seeing as you hve started this thread your allready light years ahead of the average jo...... pluse you won't scare your wife.
and or see if an exhaust brake would work and don't use your brakeat all
David
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Daveinet
il
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imjustdave wrote:I hate to ask but why not start slower when going down a hill? ....
David I've pulled some really steep hills, but they were short. Of course I just putt down the hill, but what do you do in the mountains, where you are on a freeway and the typical speed is 60 mph and the hill is several miles long. How slow do you start out? 20 mph when cars are wizzing past you at 60+? What ever speed is chosen, its got to be slow enough to not overheat the brakes, but how would I ever predict that unless I have some indication of brake temps?
I suppose really I don't care what the temperature is as much as to how quick it is rising. If its stable or just creeping up, then I've chosen an appropriate speed. If its rising pretty quick, then I'd need to slow down.
Would a parachute be simpler yet??
* This post was
edited 10/01/08 04:10pm by Daveinet *
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Big Katuna
Deland, FL
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Joined: 12/27/2003
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Knowledge is power. Starting slower doesn't tell you if you have a dragging caliper which I used to fight on my Ford chassis all the time.
My Kharma ran over my Dogma.
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bill h
el segundo
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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Daveinet wrote:SO how about buying a relatively cheap IR gun and moving the sensor down to the inside of the wheel well.
Is there a chance that one IR gun would work through four fiberoptics?
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
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