Katdaddy
Petal, MS USA
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Joined: 08/25/2003
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bill h wrote:I made mine out of 5 inch square plastic fence post from Lowes. It is large enough for me to leave fittings on the hose.
After I got tired of having to remove the ends each time I stored the hose I also did this. I mounted mine to the top of the rear bumper with homemade square u bolts. I did not put any caps on the ends. I drilled a hole top and bottom and inserted a bolt with a wingnut for ease of removal. With this setup I can get both a 10 foot and 20 foot hose with ends in the container.
Little by little, one travels far - J.R.R. Tolkien
There ain't no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them. - Mark Twain
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wittmeba
Roanoke, Va
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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pritch272,
I like what you did too. If I had seen that before making mine, I might have used a larger tubing to allow my sewer supports to be stored in the tube also. Right now we have 2 pieces 3" PVC cut lengthwise and roll our outdoor carpet around them.
We too use the 'L' for putting the connector into the ground but I dont like those yellow knobs on the hoseclamps. I always replace them with a standard steel band clamp.
I will finish up this weekend and post the balance of pics.
Bruce & Carolyn Wittmeier
Viet Nam Vet 1968-69
I was born in Great Falls, Mt. My parents moved when I was 5.
I found them when I was 10 - they were in California.
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bill h
el segundo
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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bill h wrote:wittmeba wrote:bill h wrote:I made mine out of 5 inch square plastic fence post from Lowes. It is large enough for me to leave fittings on the hose.
That too could be a good idea. How long of piece can you buy?
I am thinking 7 feet, but will go outside tomorrow when it is light and measure what is installed and the piece left over.
Quote:
Do they have some kind of end caps?
I didn't look into that. Preferring some ventilation, I just cross-drilled and force-fitted a piece of scrap PEX at each end. The access end is cut open on top for a foot or two to allow the flex tube to slide in. It then expands into the very end, which does not have the top cut off, and acts as a retainer. The hose will not jump out unless it is collapsed enough to allow the end to be free of the very end where the top is intact.
To follow up, with a little more accuracy, here is a picture of the label still left on the end I cut off:
If anyone needs to read the fine print, PM me with an E mail address for a higher resolution copy of your own. The inside measurement is 4 7/16, which allows me to leave installed (and slide in) a clear 45 degree Valterra EZ coupler connection for the MH end. My tube lives inside the propane tank bin, so end loading was not an option. My complete 90 degree dump hole fitting stays on the hose, and just sticks up a little out the top loading port I cut at one end. It is handy to have everything all connected and together when competing in dump speed events. 
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes
4WD Toyota toad
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wittmeba
Roanoke, Va
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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As I proceed with my hose storage, I keep thinking I need something better for attaching to the trailer. My concern isnt for losing the tube but possible danger of hitting another car if it fell off on the hwy.
As browsing Lowes, I came upon these and thought they would be good to use for holding up my sewer hose storage. They are predrilled and have a tie wrap laced thru the J hook. They were only about $1.19 each and I thought about breaking one just to see how strong they are.
Any plumbers out there using these in construction? They seem plenty strong, but I just want to be sure. The large hose clamps may work fine, but they too can break, come lose and I dont know how to lock them like you would a locknut on a bolt.
I could use large U bolts (if they could be found) or 'all-thread' and bend it as necessary, but they will also require a secondary bracket for attachment. Perhaps Im being overly cautious.
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CA Traveler
Sun Lakes, AZ
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Joined: 01/03/2004
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Since my sewer locker is small I started looking for areas to store additional hoses. First I located the standard 5" hollow square vinyl fence post (8' long) which is the ideal size to store the hose. From HD I ordered the post sku 417-980 model 73065388X $22.97 and beveled cap sku 417-980 model 73061601 $2.47 each.
Lowes 12066 Gutter VIN 10' White Rain $4.65 each (qty 2) makes a nice slide inside the fence post.
And I use a 8' piece to store my collapsible ladder. And with a 4' section I store the coiled air hose, several poles and a axe handle (not the head).
2004 Holiday Rambler 36 Endeavor PST with ISC 330 Cummins
2004 Honda CR-V
Bob
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wittmeba
Roanoke, Va
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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Just finshed (sorta) my sewer hose holder. Here are a couple more pics. I am still concerned with losing it so I think I will put a chain tether on the front attached with bolts on the rig and tube just in case the brackets should break. Id hate to cause harm to someone else due to losing the tube.
The first is what I had on the trailer to attach the J brackets to. I just used a small piece of the tubing to position it on the trailer ribs for drilling. The bottom of the tube is just slightly above the pull handles for the black and gray tanks but they are accessible. Ill have to mark on the tube where each is located, then using my handy little extension it shouldnt be a problem.
I learned J hooks are PVC so I went back to Lowes and bought 4 more. Then bonded 2 together to make a U which will make them a little stronger. I think they are going to be discontinued because they were marked down from $1.45 to $0.22 each. It was tough having to invest more money.
Pull handle extension:
Positioner - top of the tube is tight against the rib on the trailer - position for drilling:
This is the end product - from the front.
All totaled, it was about $35.00 or so with all the hardware.
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