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 > What Hitch and sway control does everyone use?

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jlktbk

Athens

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Posted: 10/03/08 10:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JBarca wrote:

jlktbk wrote:

Hey all, Was wondering what type of hitch and sway control everyone uses. I have a Reese with friction bar sway control and it can get kind of nerve racking on the interstate. Any Suggestions?


Hi Jlktbk

To your first question, I am currently using a 1,700# Reese HP WD hitch with the HP dual cam as the hitch. My TV has 156" WB, LT tires, 1 ton suspension. The TT is 32 feet long; TT weighs 9,175# with a 1,400# tongue fully loaded with water. TW is 15.2% of loaded TT GVW. The WD hitch has been optimized on setup and I'm real picky on tire pressure and inflate the TT to max cold side wall pressure, and have proper high inflation tire pressure while towing on the TV. This combination tows very well, is very stable with the way I tow.

This same style hitch, but 1,200# rated WD bars I have had on this same TT before it was fully loaded on a K2500 130" WB Suburban. As well as a 27, foot TT. The hitch is a good part of a stable towing rig but it in itself does not fix all towing problems.

To help you along, I'll type some that might help if you want to get rid of some of your problems.

Any of the hitches mentioned will not solve all towing problems. Even the high end Hensley and Pro Pride. And this is not a bashing on any hitch as the hitch is only a part of a towing solution. A number of things have to line up. Some folks are more fortunate and hit the ideal setup quick, others have to work at it. All can be optimized to the best the rig can be. And sometimes something has to be changed to get you what you feel comfortable with in the end.

I did look up your TT. If I have the model numbers right is this it?
2008 Rockwood 8296SS

It lists different weights then you have. You may have a special one or the on line literature is out of date. What I was looking for was the design weight of the TT when it left the factory. There is one good thing that factual dry weights do give you. It is how the TT is balanced from the get go before anything is ever added to it. Armed with that knowledge, the floor plan, where water tanks are located, some guides lines can be given on what to watch out for when loading the TT so you end up with a good tongue weight balance to Loaded TT GVW. Since the on line data is different then you posted, I can't draw any conclusions from this. Scaled weights are now needed.

There are many factors that affect a stable towing rig. And when using any brand friction type sway control, Yes the DC and Equal-I-zer are friction also just better ones, all other towing parameters must be optimized to give you the best your rig can be. The hitch will not fix all problems. The higher end hitches like the Hensley or Pro Pride can overcome a lot of TV and TT problems, but pending the TV may not solve every towing problem. Point, don't run out and buy any new hitch until you know what the problem is.

So this now comes to, well what is the problem?? We do not know, and you too may not know, enough about your towing setup to root cause a towing problem from what has been given so far.

A description of what nerve racking will help us. So what is it doing that does not seem right? Please describe.

If you want to drill down into helping optimize your setup it will take a little work but pay off for it in the end. If you do please help answer these extra questions so we can tell more what you have.

Tell us how you determined the WD was set correctly on the TV? You may not know or you may,. If you do please describe.

If the dealer set the hitch when you picked up the TT has any settings been done since then after loading the TT and TV ready to go camping?

Tell us what brand, load range tires and air pressure you run on the truck?

Tell us how the TT stance is when towing and WD is engaged with TV and TT fully loaded ready to camp. Is it nose high, low or level and by how much from level if it is up or down?

What air pressure do you run in the TT tires verses cold side wall pressure?

Axle’s weights have been mentioned, both on TT and TV and the loaded tongue weight of the TT. If you really want to figure this out, spending around $8.00 at a truck scale will give you real data to figure out what is going on. And from this we can help do a final hone in on towing setup. Trust me it is always an eye opening experience weighing camping “stuff”. It can trick you quick. Been there, weighed that and oh my gosh…

Basically you need to do a total towing health check to figure out what is OK and what needs to be optimized and maybe changed. Some get lucky, make 1 adjustment and are good. And like I said others have to drill down into all the details. What worked for them may not work for you unless everything is exactly the same in the TV and TT. What are the odds of that happening.

I will say this from the little we know, a 31 foot TT, on the suspension of the truck you have with a std friction sway bar means everything has to be perfect in setup and it may not cure all the normal towing evils that come at you. The friction sway bar has its place, however in my opinion a 31 feet TT is not the best use of it.

The Towing setup sticky on top of this forum is a great place to start and solves many folk’s setups. Try it.

Good luck and hope this helps.

John
John, I just came in from work,thanks for the info I will get some #s in the morning and maybe I can figure this out

jlktbk

Athens

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Posted: 10/05/08 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok This what I have discovered the yellow sticker on the inside of the camper that list's the weight with all options is 6162 the factory tongue weight is 703 before hitch etc. I do not carry any fresh water so I don't know, I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that it would matter where it is located. When the trailer is hooked to the hitch bar on the truck the hitch bar is angle up slightly and the front of the trailer is to. I believe this is where my problem lies. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. The scale out weight on the trailer loaded is 6927. My TV has no problem whatsoever towing the trailer it's just when I get up to highway speed that I get the Push pull from bigger trucks, am I just over reacting?

havedreamwilltravel

Southern California

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Posted: 10/05/08 03:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is the push/pull effect on the whole setup together as one unit? If the trailer is the only one being moved and you have to compensate with brake controller to get it back in line then there's an issue.

IIRC some push/pull is expected due to the physics of size, suction, speed and distance between the vehicles as they pass. Someone on the forum a physics teacher? Wanna give us a lesson?

Couple of things we've done to limit the push/pull effect successfully (usually we don't feel anything at all)

Check tongue weight and make sure your around 13% of your loaded trailer weight.

As we see a big rig coming up to pass, we ease slightly over to the right (being passed on the left) and as he comes up to us we slow down our speed just a bit allowing him to pass us easier.


2007 GMC Yukon Denali - 6.2L 380hp/417ft-lbs,0-60 in 6.2 seconds
2007 Jayco Jayflight 27BH
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Visited a lot of states, haven't camped in many...yet.


LarryJM

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Posted: 10/05/08 03:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

skipnchar wrote:

I used a friction bar with great success for over 40,000 miles with my 25 footer. That's about the longest trailer that the manufacturer recommends for a friction bar though. Make SURE that you're not one of the users who try to "adjust" the handle on the friction bar. Tighten it up COMPLETELY if you want it to work correctly and make any necessary ADJUSTMENTS using the locking stud below the handle. The last 40,000 plus miles with the 34 footer has been with the Reese Straight Line (duel cam) system. Couldn't be more pleased.


I used a single friction bar on my last TT 26' 6Klbs for over 100,000 miles and actually wore one out (i.e. metal to metal one the brake type material wore away on one side of the slide bar. I think that was at around 80,000 towing miles. It worked great, but as Skip says it needs to be adjusted properly and a single system is not for the longer trailers and a dual system just gets a little involved.

When we got our new TT 31' and 7.5Klbs I got an Equal-i-zer and it's also a great system.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974. TRAILER MODS



LarryJM

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Posted: 10/05/08 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

crappie_fisherman wrote:

mkirsch,

Your advice is very good and an accurate description of what is 'percieved'.

However I still beleive the OP should weigh his setup...but I feel all folks should at least visit a scale once per WD setup as a minimum...

Joe.


I agree with both mkirsch and crappie_fisherman.

Larry

LarryJM

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Posted: 10/05/08 04:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jlktbk wrote:

Ok This what I have discovered the yellow sticker on the inside of the camper that list's the weight with all options is 6162 the factory tongue weight is 703 before hitch etc. I do not carry any fresh water so I don't know, I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that it would matter where it is located. When the trailer is hooked to the hitch bar on the truck the hitch bar is angle up slightly and the front of the trailer is to. I believe this is where my problem lies. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. The scale out weight on the trailer loaded is 6927. My TV has no problem whatsoever towing the trailer it's just when I get up to highway speed that I get the Push pull from bigger trucks, am I just over reacting?


As far as weight and where it's located in the trailer it makes a big difference. I have one of these 75lb stand alone NORCOLD refer/freezers and in preparing for out upcoming trip had it loaded with food and sitting in the rear bedroom about 3' behind the rear axle. I would guess the total wt. of the refer/freezer was right around 100lbs total. I was checking my tongue wt. with my Sherline tongue scale and was getting around 650lbs basically loaded to go and since my axle wt is close to 7K loaded for bear based on past scale wts. that was too light to my liking so for traveling I moved that refer/freezer up into the living room about 5' behind the tongue end and probably 5' in front of the front axle and my new tongue wt. was just over 800lbs and that's where that refer/freezer will "live" while on the road.

I will also, weigh everything at my first fuel stop (about 75miles from home) and readjust as necessary since I tow fairly well maxed out on both the TT and TV GVWRs and AWRs except the TV FAWR.

Larry

* This post was edited 10/05/08 04:58pm by LarryJM *

Keith T

Morgantown, WV

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Posted: 10/05/08 05:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mkirsch wrote:

There's a difference between a "Nervous Nelly" driver and actual problems. A huge difference. It's also very common for people to misidentify many towing issues as sway when they're not sway at all.

I've seen a lot of people who are so intimidated by towing that they flip out any time anything passes them on the highway, when in reality it is a non-event.

So far, I have not seen a description of any actual problems, only that towing is "nerve racking" for the original poster. Apologies if I missed it.

There will ALWAYS be some sort of push-pull feeling from large vehicles passing on the highway. This is not sway. Severe push-pull is caused by hauling heavy on flimsy passenger-rated tires, and/or improper weight distributing hitch setup. Better sway control will not help you here.

Sway is when the trailer starts dancing back and forth uncontrollably behind the truck. A single oscillation before the trailer comes back in line on its own is NOT sway.

Porpoising, or an up-down motion at the rear of the truck, is caused by an improperly set up weight distributing hitch. That's not sway, either, and better sway control won't fix it.


I agree. I actually do not use any sway control and am very happy and secure while towing. Used friction control for a while and felt the hassle out-weighed the benefit.


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BurbMan

Long Island, NY

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Posted: 10/06/08 06:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jlktbk wrote:

Ok This what I have discovered the yellow sticker on the inside of the camper that list's the weight with all options is 6162 the factory tongue weight is 703 before hitch etc. I do not carry any fresh water so I don't know, I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that it would matter where it is located. When the trailer is hooked to the hitch bar on the truck the hitch bar is angle up slightly and the front of the trailer is to. I believe this is where my problem lies. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. The scale out weight on the trailer loaded is 6927. My TV has no problem whatsoever towing the trailer it's just when I get up to highway speed that I get the Push pull from bigger trucks, am I just over reacting?


So from the factory numbers, that 11.4% tongue weight (703/6162) is right in the ballpark. However, you say that the trailer sits "nose up" a little, and that's probably contributing to your instability.

Based on the scale weight you provided, you loaded 765 lbs of gear in the trailer (6927-6162), not bad and a little lighter than most with this size TT. However, what we don't know is how that loaded weight affected the balance of the trailer. For example, if there is some heavy stuff packed in that big storage area under the rear queen bed, that will really lighten your tongue weight due to the distance the bed is behind the trailer axles. What's important to determine is the actual loaded tongue weight, TT axles weight and total weight to see if there is still adequate tonge weight based on how you packed the trailer. Depnding on where the fresh water tank is, you may want to travel with it full to provide more weight ahead of the TT axles.

Also important is to adjust your WD hitch set up so the truck and trailer sit level when loaded. There is a sticky at the top of the TT forum that describes how to do this in detail.

clarkely

Harleysville, Pa

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Posted: 10/06/08 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ProPride....is there anything else?


I'd Rather be camping!
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1 Wife, 4 kids & a Dog...Bigger is Better!!


crappie_fisherman

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Posted: 10/06/08 02:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator



Towing an improperly balanced setup NO MATTER WHAT HITCH is ill advised.

A trip to the scales tells all.

A properly balanced setup (i.e. optimal tongue weight) will need NO SWAY CONTROL under most situations...it will tow straight as an arrow just on the ball.

HOWEVER...I carry my Hensely Arrow for those 'not most' situations or less than optimal situations you WILL find yourself in given enough seat time...

I don't carry a $3,000 hitch around for those sunny no wind no traffic flat roaded days we can only dream about...I carry a $3,000 hitch for those days the wind is blowing 30+ mph as I enter a downhill curve with a semi on both sides overtaking me and I get blasted with bow waves on top of cross winds...even with my scale verified balance...I STILL rely on sway control...

Simply slapping a high end hitch on a poorly balanced setup is not advised. A hitch does NOT negate the need for proper balance...that only a SCALE can verify...doing so can lead to cycle fatigue stress failures of some part of the hitch hardware (and I include the TV receiver and trailer A-frame in that "hitch hardware").

Joe.


DH, DW, 2 DD's

2005 Excursion V10 w/4.30's
- Hensley Arrow
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- Hellwig rear sway bar
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- Bilsteins



2007 JayFlight 31BHDS (3 women & 2 slides...it helps! )

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