blevtr
Abingdon, MD
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Joined: 09/14/2005
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Am in the process of replacing rubber lines on my '99 P-30 - they often don't release and the toes of all my shoes are getting scuffed from pulling the pedal up. While I'm in there, want to grease the pins, check the calipers, etc. Silly me, thought they would be really big versions of the brakes I've worked on before. There is an allen bolt on the rear of the caliper (right side of coach) which appears (?) to release the caliper to pivot up and expose the pads. Anyone have any advice here?
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lzasitko
Regina, SK Canada
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Joined: 11/30/2005
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Yes the bolt holds the caliper in place. This links shows the rear discs on my 82 MH P31, P30s have rear drums.
In our case I had some problems going through the mountains, had one rear caliper piston stick and piston seal was bad. I was going to take the MH up to the family farm as they have tools and jacks etc. In the end they were to busy so I bought a 12 ton pneumatic/hydraulic jack and jack stands and did it crosswise in our driveway. Driveway slopes but is almost flat right in front of the garage. Had to take the hub to a friends shop to press the studs out and then press them on with the new disc. Since then no issues. While I had it apart I changed the main axle seals also. New pads all around and checked the other calipers/discs. Pretty easy job if you have done discs before, just a little bigger and heavier. Took us an afternoon to do all the brakes and re-bleed them.
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trop-a-cal
Palm Coast Fl
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Joined: 09/24/2007
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There are two pins holding the pads on to the caliper. Once they are off if it won't come off you have to tap the caliper off with a small hammer. The pistons have not retreated and they are not going to until the brake fluid is released assuming they are not your problem. Look at the area around the pistons, as if it is all rusted and the piston cylinder that is showing is not smooth and shinny,that's why the brakes hang up. That not being the problem, then at some point you have to take the rubber lines off which requires the fluid to be removed. You will have a real mess if you don't have a way of stopping the brake fluid from coming out more than just a little. You can cap the line by using a screw on cap nut. That would be easy to get if you have the new lines already. While you are at it the rest of the brakes need to be checked, like the rotors and calipers. The one other thing usualy done at the same time is repacking the wheel bearings after you check them for flat spots. Good luck!
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blevtr
Abingdon, MD
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Joined: 09/14/2005
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Thanks for the replies. I'm off to the driveway, maybe I won't need the sledge hammer after all. I'm going to flush the fluid while replacing the lines, have a large drip pan ready to go. Hopefully I won't get rained out like I did yesterday.
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blevtr
Abingdon, MD
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Joined: 09/14/2005
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OK, here we are in the Driveway of Dispair. My rear calipers are double piston jobs with no pins. Figured that out with minimal screaming and flailing around, now I'm putting things back. My calipers have grooves/slots the whole caliper slides in on the carrier. I'm thinking I should put a dab of disc brake grease on these slots to help in the sliding. Any thoughts?
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bill h
el segundo
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Joined: 08/02/2001
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blevtr wrote:I'm thinking I should put a dab of disc brake grease on these slots to help in the sliding. Any thoughts?
Yup. Clean em up with a wire brush followed by a shot of spray brake cleaner. Use just a little lube, well spread out. Do it yearly.
Bill and Susan
84 Barth 30 tag powered by ht502/Thorley, Gear Vendors OD
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes
4WD Toyota toad
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