Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum: Towing: Another Dual Cam question.
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 > Another Dual Cam question.

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martipr

Haltom City, Texas

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Posted: 10/04/08 08:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am installing a Reese Dual Cam Straight Line system. The cam arm brackets are mounted, per instructions, with the cam arm pivot bolt 18" from the center of the coupler. The inner cam arm adjusting bolt has to be screwed out to the last thread to make the arm long enough for the cam lobe to reach the center of the cam of the spring bar. I can see from pictures in other posts about the Dual Cam install that this is not correct but I can't figure out what to do about it.





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downtheroad

Puget Sound

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Posted: 10/04/08 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I didn't follow the 18" recommendation (mine ended up about 17"). I centered the inner cam arm in the yolk and then used this position to set pivot bolt location - drilled the frame and bolted it all down. This gave me lots of adjustment / travel in either direction and I didn't have to screw the cam out to the last threads.

I guess this really doesn't help your situation or answer your question (sorry about that). I suggest you wait until Monday and call Reese tech support and run this all by them.
Good luck with it. It's a great system once you get it dialed in.


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TXiceman

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Posted: 10/05/08 09:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tied dry fitting mine before I drilled any holes and I was not at the recommended 18". The instructions on the DC should be a bit clearer to help some folks.

I am a mechanical engineer and had to read the instructions several times and do the dry fit for it to make sense to me.

Ken


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Ron Gratz

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Posted: 10/06/08 07:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your photos show seven chain links under tension. Is this giving you sufficient load transfer?

If you changed to having six or five links under tension, the end of the WD bar would be higher and the cam arm adjusting bolts would not have to be screwed out so far.

If having six or five links under tension causes too much load transfer, you could reduce the amount of tilt of the ball mount.

Ron

dodge guy

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Posted: 10/06/08 07:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Heres what you do!

Flip the DC brackets right to left and move them back so you use an existing hole. then you will need to drill another hole for the rearmost hole in the bracket. this will put your yokes about centered in the adjustment arm and you will have sufficient room for adjustment.

I had to do this after the dealer swapped my DC over from our old trailer and didn`t even try and do it properly. yes you will have a hole in the frame, which is no big deal. just put another bolt in the hole to fill it.

Good luck!


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crappie_fisherman

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Posted: 10/06/08 09:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My first thought was what Ron Gratz suggested...

VERIFY via a scale whether your WD is transfering enough load...also if you can reduce the tilt in the hitch head (looks like you have a bottom ball coupler) so interference with frame shouldn't be an issue. Basically readjust your settings to drop one or two links OUT of tension which would allow you to shorten the cam arms.

Then if all else fails...try as dodge guy suggests...however when I tried that experiment a few years ago...I think you just end up screwing the cam arm all the way in versus all the way out...but it is worth a try as they simply flip over to the other side with no issues in mounting holes...at least when I tried it I didn't have to drill any more holes...

Good luck!
joe.


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campin ags

College Station, Tx

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Posted: 10/06/08 08:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I dry fitted my before drilling and ended up at about 17 inches. I agree with Ron you could adjust the number of links ( I have 5) and this will give you some more threads, however you may need to adjust the hitch head to get proper weight distribution.


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