newsomer
Seven Miles South of the Cheddar Curtain
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Up front this question is probably due to my marginal OCD (self diagnosed) so if we need to apply the time tested "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" wisdom let it be so. Apologies for the long post but I've hopefully included all the pertinent data.
I have a few minor concerns with my current Equal-i-zer settings.
- The trailer rides ever so slightly nose high (the trailer frame measures 1" higher in the front than the rear).
- The truck rides just a little lower in the rear. On level ground with the trailer attached the rear of the truck settles 2" more than the front does.
- On wet roads if I apply the accelerator a little on the hard side the rear tires will break loose but not to the extent that I can't back off and regain traction. I'm thinking this may be due to P rated tires and the increased drag weight as opposed to excessive weight transfer by the Equal-i-zer. The trailer brakes are working well in spite of the poor controller the auto dealer installed.
Truck: See sig. The truck has factory installed towing suspension. After market Class III hitch receiver.
Trailer: GVW: 5856 lbs., Tongue Weight: 672 lbs., 29.5' hitch to bumper.
Hitch: Equal-i-zer, 10,000 lbs. GVW Rating, 1,000 lbs. Tongue Weight Rating, 7 Washer Offset, "L" Brackets 4th hole from top, bars essentially parallel to the trailer frame, Ball is about 2" above hitch when both truck and trailer are unhitched on level ground.
We've towed with this setup six times since we bought the trailer last May. I have not detected any sway in calm to moderate (20 MPH) winds nor when passing or being passed, either direction, by large commercial trucks.
My current thinking is that if I adjust the hitch for more tension (more washers or raise "L" bars) to raise the rear end of the truck I'll probably further decrease the trucks rear end traction but will further level out the overall truck stance. It will also raise the attitude of the trailer which I can also remedy by lowering the ball height but that will probably change all the other parameters.
Questions:
Is further adjustment worth the effort, I don't normally tow at night and as I have already mentioned it tows well and I am getting satisfactory gas millage (9.5-11 MPG depending on terrain and wind conditions).
Is my trailer's slight front end high attitude reason for concern?
2007 Chevy Silverado extended cab, 5.3L, Z85 - 2008 Starcraft Travel Star 27RBH - Equal-i-zer
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colochoclab
Arvada, Colorado
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I'm in the same situation. Although I'me done for the year, it's on my "to do" list next year to tweak my EQ. I'm going to start my adding one more washer and maybe lowering the hitch one space. It's a great system, but it does take a little trial and error. Keep us posted!
-Lab
2008 Nissan Titan LE Crew 4x4, DOHC 5.6 V8 w/VVT, Big Tow Pkg.
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newsomer
Seven Miles South of the Cheddar Curtain
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colochoclab wrote:I'm in the same situation. Although I'me done for the year, it's on my "to do" list next year to tweak my EQ. We're about 24 hours from what most probably be our last trip of the season. You can bank on the fact that I'll not be fiddling with the setup (OCD under control) until well after we return home Monday.colochoclab wrote:Keep us posted! Please do likewise.
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summutt2002
Mountains of Utah-7000'
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I don't see a problem with the attitude of the combo. Of more concern to me would be the P tires....get LTs with load range E. Also wondering if your Class III hitch may be a little light.
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'01 Excursion Ltd 7.3L PSD pulling a '06 Prowler 260RLS, Equal-i-zer, Prodigy
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Padlin
W. Ma.
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If your really interested you might drop DHicken@progressmfg.com an email with your questions. Do send pictures of your tv/trailer combo as well as close ups of the hitch setup as well as the measurments your at while connected.
Bob & Deb
W Ma.
04 GMC 1500 4X4, 5.3L
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Ductape
On the Road
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Check your truck's manual. GM trucks you only transfer enough weight to the front to return it to the same height as the unloaded height.
So if properly loaded the rear will sink, but the front will not sink or rise.
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havedreamwilltravel
Southern California
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Ductape wrote:Check your truck's manual. GM trucks you only transfer enough weight to the front to return it to the same height as the unloaded height.
So if properly loaded the rear will sink, but the front will not sink or rise.
Typically if it's a 3/4 ton truck they put stoppers on the front so you don't get any squat. 1/2 tons you can get squat on the front.
Have you put a level on the truck/trailer where your are hooked up or just measuring? We used a level to see if the truck/trailer were riding level.
where is the front in relation to not being hooked up? Is there ANY squat on the front or is it at least where it started before hooking up?
It took us awhile to fine tune ours. Towed fine before but once we added one more washer the difference was very noticeable.
It's okay - I have a slight case of OCD too 
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Ductape
On the Road
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There's always a contrary view to be found on this site.
Pretty sure my truck's not a 3/4 ton and I have read the manual.
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dougsee3
Calgary AB
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Joined: 08/07/2005
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There are stoppers in the previous half tons I do not know about these new ones.
I like to play with the hitch and prefer an almost level trailer or that is very slightly nose down. And this is what most are people looking for. I like it for when you stop some where, like for lunch
I can crank the TT up to level and it helps steady the TT for my soup.
I would drop the hitch a notch to bring the trailer to level and or a little nose down. When you do that you will start over by removing one or two 2 washers, and raising the L brackets up one hole.
It does sound like you are a little firm on the weight transfer a trip to a scale will help. The tire spin? No more full throttle starts I guess or may be a little more weight on the rear would help. You do have more WD bar than hitch weight it seems.
I have had my Equal-i-zer in many different settings and sway has not been a noticeable problem although I have a good weight to hitch ratio which helps. (yours seems ok) I do like to play with the hitch and it has taken me 6 or 8 different times to adjust the hitch but I have been also playing with the ride height of the truck with adjustable shackles I have lowered it 2” and then 1” next year I might put it back to stock. I do not care for the high rear when empty and it makes it easier to get in and out of the truck
2005 2500 Avalanche
2004 30' Terry Quantum 290FLS
Equal-i-zer,Prodigy
Calgary Alberta
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Trucks are typically 2" higher in the rear than in the front. So, 2" of squat in the rear brings the truck to level, which is about right.
Drop the hitch head 1 hole on the shank, and add a washer to get the spring bar tension back, and you'll be fine. As you surmise, trying to lift the rear end any further will further reduce traction.
If you are not having any squrim or handling issues with the P rated tires, and are not overloading them, I would not waste time or money on the LT tires, at least until the P's wear out.
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