bigeking
Arlington, Texas
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Is the egt temp. for the turbo avaiable from the onboard computer, or do you have to tap the manifold? Thanks
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marvmarcy
Polson, MT, USA
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Need to know what truck to answer.
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bigeking
Arlington, Texas
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Sorry, I guess that would help----2008 GMC Duramax. 
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donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
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Tap the manifold is the pat answer.
Donn
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coolbreeze01
Redding, Ca
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donn0128 wrote:Tap the manifold is the pat answer.
+1 for tap, but the main debate is pre or post turbo and drill debris 
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thomasinnv
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pre-turbo is better. it's useless to have a post turbo pyro, unless you already have a pre-turbo pyro and you just like all the techy stuff. it is not uncommon to have a difference of several hundred degrees between pre and post turbo readings. pre-turbo leaves out the guess work, these things are expensive to have to replace.
as for the drill shavings...drill the manifold with the truck running and the shavings will be blown out the hole from the exhaust pressure.
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wittmeba
Roanoke, Va
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Agree with above. See here for excellent instructions.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp
I believe they have done testing and determined that Pre-turbo results in higher temperatures, therefore pre-turbo is a better choice for location.
If you are considering 3 gauges (EGT, tranny temp and turbo boost) some comments. The Pyro temp gauge is almost half the cost of all 3 with an A-Pillar...might be worth the consideration.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/image_DMXgaugekit.htm
I just did mine before the Florida trip and their instructions are perfect. I did make a couple alterations however. Mine is a Ford.
The tranny temp gauge called for a separate turn-on wire from the key switch and a wire for the light. To reduce my wiring and cutting into factory with in-line splices, I ran the tranny temp turn-on and light off a single wire which also feeds the other gauge lights. I drive with my parking lights or headlights on almost all the time - especially when towing - so the tranny temp only works when the lights are on. Not a big deal. It just made is a bit simplier.
I also didnt want to increase the possibility for turbo pressure leaks so I tapped into the manifold with a brass fitting to feed the Boost gauge. I found a fitting that fit the boost tube and also used the same drill/tap size and saved about $20.00 not having to buy another drill and tap. I have a plastic T with hose clamps, but didnt use them. This is the turbo-boost, not Pyro temp.
Shavings - I pulled a small magnet out of a pocket screwdriver and held it with a pair of vice-grips and moved it around inside the hole as best I could. It did pull out a couple small shavings. Dont lose the magnet in the pipe - not good.
Drilling the boost, I just wadded up a bunch of ducttape with the sticky side out. Removed the big hoseclamp and shoved it in the hole where I was drilling. It worked pretty good.
You will get good instructions from the gauge mfg and they might be a little different from the retailer. You will have to decide which method and where to mount and locate the sensor sending units.
Dont buy drills and taps until you have the fittings in hand. They too may be a little different than the documentation. Take them with you to the hardware store to get the right dia and threads.
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Turtle n Peeps
California
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Quote:pre-turbo is better. it's useless to have a post turbo pyro,
Useless? What?  
Post, Pre, it makes almost no difference. I have had post and pre on one of my engines. The difference was 100 degrees on EGT. If you have the correct gauge it makes no difference. They make pre or post gauges that have the appropriate markings where needed.
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