2cyber71
Pennsylvania
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Joined: 11/21/2003
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Run the fridge on LP
Turn on the Genset for the Micrwave.
Don't use the AC or the heat pump....at all.
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fla-gypsy
North Florida
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Joined: 04/19/2005
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Cutting off other power hungry appliances can help with low voltage. The condition you are describing does sound as if the CG has a problem, although it could just be your pedestal. Do contact the CG about the problem. My minimum is 108 volts.
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Shellback62
Sedro-Woolley, Washington
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The shore power plug heating is a sign of poor or worn contacts in the recepticale. I would have moved to another site looking for improved voltage readings. The campground management should be notified.
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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I use Franks.
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hershey
Albuquerque,(fulltime) NM, USA
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I've found that the meters available to monitor the voltage can be off as much as 5 or more volts. I have a 70 dollar meter that measures from 3 to 5 volts lower than my Fluke multimeter. Actually my "Kill-a-Watt" meter measures much closer to my Fluke than my expensive Camping WOrld meter. BTW: I trust the Fluke as being pretty accurate.
And I trust my Autoformer to take over when necessary to boost the voltage when it thinks I need it.
hershey - albuquerque, nm
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w6pea
San Diego, Mexifornia
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Joined: 09/08/2006
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I also have one of those meters from CW, They work well to see if power is there. I don't trust it I use my Fluke77 I have had it for many years and I trust it more than a $12.95 that just monitors the voltage.
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Bumpyroad
Virginia
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Joined: 12/01/2005
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a lot of older campgrounds have that problem about suppertime when the electric usage picks up, or when all ACs kick on. I just let my multi function surge protector control my usage.
bumpy
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ryanallie1
Magalia, Calif
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Joined: 04/12/2005
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Hi All.
I'll second what Bumpy says. Also, we have seen campgounds with such low voltage, that we have just had to up-pulg our Surge Protector and power cord. We have had to run our Honda's to be able to run our A/C, and other power needs. We do let the management know of the problem. And if they can't fix it, or give us another site, with proper voltage, we want a price drop on the site rental, or its bye bye time. Thats also the real beauty of being 100% Self-Contained. These problems seem to be getting pretty bad in a lot of the older campgrounds. Thats why we perfer to do Dry-Camping/RV'ing most of the time. Good Luck. Happy Camping. Dan & Jill
1997 Ford F-250, H.D. Extended-Cab, Short Bed, 7.3 PSD, K&N Air Filter, 5000 lbs air bags w/on board compressor w/guage, SuperChips Tuner/Programer. 1996 Nash 24fter 5er, 15K "Lil" Rocker Hitch w/BedSaver, Twin EU2000i Gen's W/Kit. Nam-Vet, 33 Months.
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w6pea
San Diego, Mexifornia
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As is said in my last post I have one of those meters from CW. I also have a surge protecter but I also have my own solar set up. I really don't need to even hook up in a campground. I guess I could say I qualify as to be able say we are completly self contained.
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parkmanaa
Houston, Tx.
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Joined: 03/12/2006
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As a campground owner, I am very familiar with all power within an RV park.
You ask if moving to another site will help. Possibly, depending on how many circuits the park has, and how those circuits are wired.
Heat at the plug could be worn or loose prongs on the plug or worn out receptacle, both cases will cause less than required tight connection and therefore heat.
Another reason for heat is consistently drawing near the 30amps of power.
Another reason for power problems is improperly wired replacement plug on your shore power line. (black wire on white prong, white wire on black prong)
I would ask the park operator, or better yet I would have a reliable multi-meter
to do it myself, to check the voltage on the prongs at the power pedestal.
To do that, slowly pull the plug back in the receptacle until you see a gap wide enough to insert your meter leads onto one of the prongs. With one lead on the ground blade, the other on one of the power blades, you should be able to read the actual voltage while normal power is being used.
VERY IMPORTANT: When you check the voltage this way, you should read voltage near 120 vac ONLY on the prong on your LEFT (line voltage)facing the pedestal. You should read ONLY a few millivolts on the prong on the RIGHT (common) prong,facing the pedestal.
If your voltage DOES NOT check via this method, it probably means the pedestal
receptacle is improperly wired. If the voltage is on the proper prong, this means the pedestal is wired correctly, but does not guarantee your RV plug is, if it has ever been replaced.
Finally, assuming you are getting voltage on the right prong, take a reading between the prong on the LEFT (line), and one on the RIGHT (common). You should
again read near 120 vac. If not, you could have a problem somewhere in the common wire connections.
I know industry standard is 120 +/- 10%, which means 108 volts is considered sufficient, but I would not allow an RVer to continue using voltage as low as 108 for fear motors, relays and circuit boards will be burnt.
This is a long explanation, hope it helps, but this is the way I check voltage any time I get a complaint.
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