| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Do I need to have diesel concerns?
......
What good is the fuel filter if it can't protect your fuel system?:h
All fuel is contaminated, your filter should have prevented damage.
After all, that is what a filter is for.
The filter "tried" to prevent damage. In my specific case, I had a LOT of water in my fuel, and the second filter still was not enough to catch the water before it entered my truck's injectors. I don't blame the filter, but I do blame GM in general and the Chevy dealer in particular who told me to "take it out and run it hard" after they changed one filter. Turns out my truck was defective in that the water in the fuel was NEVER detected, even after the engine quit running. I was so naive about how diesels react to water in fuel that I believed the Chevy dealer and followed his advice. I'm just glad my truck insurance covered the damage, because Chevy/GM never admitted any failure on their part.
I am no longer that naive, but I believe there are other owners out there who might make the same mistake I did. That's why I've posted on this thread.......................
|
adVentureMan
|
01/18/10 03:32pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Do I need to have diesel concerns?
It seems to me that if you get bad fuel, you really should change your fuel filter at least twice.
The first one is going to be "during" your tank of bad fuel. And your second one should be shortly "after" your tank of bad fuel. Since your bad fuel was the cause of your original going bad abruptly, your second will be taking the same abuse during that tank, therefore significantly shortening the lifespan of the filter.
I can't argue with that, sounds logical.
|
adVentureMan
|
01/18/10 01:36pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Do I need to have diesel concerns?
"...But...I always carry extra filters with me on the road, no matter what. ..."
I don't carry extra filters, but I probably should I am pretty paranoid after having to have one diesel rebuilt due to water in the fuel and GM's incompetence.
I suppose I ought to look around in the engine bay to find the filter and get some extras for this coming year. I will be taking my Duramax into the shop soon to have the tires rotated, the fuel, external Ally, and oil filters changed. My truck get's little use during the non-towing season so I like to start off the season with fresh filters. My truck only gets about 7k annual miles.
|
adVentureMan
|
01/18/10 05:59am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Do I need to have diesel concerns?
...........
So when I'm traveling do I really need to look for truck stops or if I see a Chevron or other brand name provider that I can pull into am I most likely ok?
Are there travel guides in print or on line that give you some idea where you can get decent fuel or truck stops.
........................
I'll give you the short version of my tale of woe....I had an '04 Duramax. This was my first diesel. Wonderful truck until I apparently got bad fuel at a major oil company in town station. When the Duramax engine started acting strange on a trip to south Florida, I called GM Customer Service, then at their direction took it to a dealer. The dealer changed the fuel filter, charged me about $100 and told me to "run it hard for a couple hundred miles". The engine quit running about an hour later. About 2 months and $6500 later I was ready to go again....
Because of my experience, on trips I ONLY buy diesel at Loves or a similar large truck stop. However, take your Duramax to the car side, as they prices are lower by a couple cents. Do this even when you have your FW connected unless it makes you uncomfortable. There is enough room, but it can be tight. Around home I buy diesel fuel only at a major brand station near my house that sells a LOT of diesel.
In general:
- avoid like the plague a station that sells diesel for a lot less than another station nearby. That's the mistake I made!
- always keep your fuel receipt with the pump number you used and your mileage at fill up.
- only fill up when you have perhaps a quarter tank. That way it's not too difficult to figure out where you got the bad fuel.
- never use all the fuel in your tank....it's nasty stuff down there
- use a lockable gas cap
- if possible don't fill up right after, or during a rain (of when they're refilling the station's fuel tanks)
- if your diesel engine is running strange SHUT IT DOWN and have it towed to a dealer - don't call the incompetents at the GM Customer Service number; that's what got me in trouble!
- if after a service or repair at a dealer, and the truck still doesn't feel/sound right; Park It. Tell the dealer manager you're uncomfortable with the results and insist they are re-done to your satisfaction; that's also what got me in trouble!
I love my Duramax and this is now the second I've had, and the fourth Chevy 3/4 ton pickup. But some bad fuel and bad advice can really put the hurt on you!
Don't be overly afraid when you fuel, even after reading my tale of woe! :C Use a little common sense and the suggestions above and your truck will be wonderful. There is nothing like a diesel pulling a fiver!
|
adVentureMan
|
01/16/10 03:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
For the original OP, I am not convinced that new parts will fix anything. I would get the adjustable temp parts if possible. And no they are not hard to replace. The tempature with standard parts can go up to around 160 and that is scalding by most standards.............
Thanks for that advice, I will attempt to find the adjustable kit.
|
adVentureMan
|
10/16/09 08:53am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
"...and waste a lot of too hot water while you stand there fiddling with the shower controls for 5 mins trying to find the right mixture between scalding and freezing. every time I take a shower, I cuss Atwood for not including a temp adjustment on this heater, its been way too hot since day 1.
...."
I have figured out the setting for the shower, I just crack the hot water side about 5 degrees, then turn the cold side on all the way. If it's still too warm I turn the hot side off a little more. My problem is washing the dishes and my hand in the sink. It seems to take more fiddling.
I don't like it quite so hot, especially with that red light coming on all the time. I am concerned the tank will explode!
|
adVentureMan
|
10/16/09 08:50am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
"...The kit comes with both the ECO and Thermostat and a new foam cover. They are not at all hard to replace.
Atwood does have the adjustable thermostat, Atwood p/n 93105, or a 130° fixed thermostat (original is 140°), Atwood p/n 91470.
...."
Thanks Chris, that is what I wanted to hear!
|
adVentureMan
|
10/16/09 08:46am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Need help with reefer before all my food goes bad! PLEASE.
.............. I have a tripod mount satellite internet setup.
.......
rob
Glad you added that, I was wondering how you had "the net" so far off the beaten path! I still marvel when my iPod Touch connects to the WiFi in waiting room at the doctor's office!:C
|
adVentureMan
|
10/15/09 10:04am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
......... You can get lower temp thermostat which is believe is integral with the control board. .......
I am surprised there is not a simple screw-driver adjustment to regulate the water temperature. Seems like maybe a 50 cent option if offered by Atwood. I suppose I will get one of those repair kits, but I'm trying to figure out how much work is involved in doing the work myself. I am not the most technologically astute gent around! :)
|
adVentureMan
|
10/15/09 09:57am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
I would certainly start by replacing the thermostat and ECO- ~$15 for both (Atwood p/n 91447). I'm not certain why the red light- unless you were running on both 120 and LP (which is fine). The light is just for the LP lockout.
It's my understanding the ECO is activated by temperature, and cuts off the electricity or gas to stop heating the unit whenever the temp passes a certain value. But you could very well be right about the LP!
I will pick up one of those kits ASAP. Have you used one of them? I am curious how much work it is to replace the existing bad parts, whatever they are.
Our prior FW had a Suburban water heater and my wife often ran both the elec and LP to heat it......but that's never been need with this one! It feels like it's just slightly less than scalding when it comes out the tap!
.............
The Atwood warranty is 2 years.
That makes sense, I bought my RV 2.5 years ago.:(
|
adVentureMan
|
10/15/09 09:53am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
Thanks for the quick reply................I edited my post over about 30 minutes and I think if you re-read it you will have a better understanding of what I need.
Thanks for that link, I will check that out sir.
|
adVentureMan
|
10/15/09 09:11am |
Tech Issues
|
|
Too hot water, Atwood water heater on electric!
The Electric/LP water heater in my 2007 Crossroads FW is a Atwood model GC10A-4E. I have only used it on electric since it passed the PDI.
The hot water produced by the Atwood has always been very hot......but the last several uses it is REALLY hot, and I starting noticing the red light in PICTURE 1. When I first started seeing the red light I turned off the electricity at the switch for anywhere from 10 to 60 minutes before a reapplication of power did not immediately result in another red light. Lately I just turn off the switch until we need hot water again.
PICTURE 1 - Panel inside the FW
http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/5128/2920379180061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
PICTURE 2 - Interior side of the hot water heater. I have done nothing in here but check for obvious problems (none). Ignore what appears as wet spots in the plywood - it's a photo glitch.
http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/42414/2927712520061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
PICTURE 3 - Exterior side of the hot water heater. Based on research here at Good Sam, I have cleaned the contacts on the Area 1 using sandpaper. I also wiggled the connections in Area 2. However, that made no improvement - I still get a red light and too hot water.
http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/32158/2051859390061932057S425x425Q85.jpg
I'm guessing the thermostat is shot and the ECO (stops power to the tank when it goes too high) is the only thing keeping the water from boiling. I do not get any water outside via the pressure valve thank goodness. We have been leaving the inside electric switch off until about 10 minutes before we need hot water (shower, washing dishes, etc). It only takes about 10 minutes for the water to get hot enough. Then we turn it off again.
Has anyone replaced the thermostat or whatever it takes to repair this? My RV is off warranty but I do not know how long the Atwood warranty is......does anyone? I am on a trip and do not have the Atwood paperwork to check it.
Thanks!
|
adVentureMan
|
10/15/09 08:45am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Some good advice
...........My Dodge has 695,000 miles on it.............
I am so embarrassed.....my two year old Duramax has a whopping 6300 miles on it!:o We only use it to tow the FW down to Florida (once to CO/AZ/NM) twice a year for a couple of months each time. The rest of the time the gal just sits in the garage. When I retired a few years ago I figured we'd travel a lot, and I suppose we're away from home a lot, but we really don't add the miles all that quickly!
|
adVentureMan
|
09/19/09 04:10am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Laptop connect to second network?
.........
2: Second Wi-Fi adapter on computer. set to Ad-Hock, it is linked only to the printer...........
That the plan for now, thanks a bunch!
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 12:20pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Laptop connect to second network?
..........
but you might be able to use BT for the printer connection, if the printer has BT or IF you get a BT adapter for your printer, the connection between the PC and the printer could be established via BT ..........
That's an option, as I THINK my laptop has BT. Not sure about the printer but I don't think so. Still, it is probably less expensive to just get another network card. The laptop has an internal one, and has lots of ports I could use for another card.....assuming they are USB, which I think most are. It also has other ports, the purpose of which I do not have a clue! :B
BT is limited to around 30ft or less, making it unlikey somebody else would see or be able to connect to your printer...
I have a password on the printer network, so I doubt others could use it, but even if they did try to do that it'd only happen once!
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 12:04pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Moving to A 5er
I can tell you for a fact that the "advertised" weights in the Cedar Creek brochures are grossly under the actual weights......
I believe the brochure weights are REALLY inaccurate, but the ones on the individual RV are more accurate, although I always assume the are dry weights. And I figure I will add 2000 lbs to individual RV's weight to figure my operational weight. It's tough to compute the weight put onto the truck though, and that's the one that's probably most critical to most of us, especial with non-dually trucks like mine. Part of the reason I went with the FW I did was it had a lower pin weight than other FWs we liked.
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 11:59am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Laptop connect to second network?
.....
.A second wifi card (as stated)..................
Thanks for the confirmation. I believe I will get a second WiFi card I can use with the laptop so I can print (while concurrently using the internal wireless (card) built into the laptop for the internt). I hope a quick visit to BestBuy or the like will find one of their computer-smart kids to help this old man out! Can you offer any recommendations on which WiFi card to get?
It will be nice to be able to print emails and other stuff while still connected to the 'net. I was getting around this by doing a "screen dump to a file" program, then logging off the internet, then logging onto the printer network and printing. Sorta of a PITA, right? :B
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 11:55am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Laptop connect to second network?
We use a wireless "N" router (WIFI) to Comcast cable to access the internet and have a wireless printer (HP 6980) and have no problem printing pages from the internet. We use a HP laptop with Vista (mine)and a Dell laptop with XP (hers).
Jim
Do you have two wireless connections running on your laptop? One for the internet, the other for the printer? I have been told I'd need two network cards to connect to two different networks.................
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 11:48am |
Technology Corner
|
|
Laptop connect to second network?
I use my laptop to connect to the internet using a WiFi at our campground. No problems.
When I am NOT connected to the Wifi/internet I use my laptop to print to my wireless printer.......again, no problems. I use a wireless printer so I can put the printer in a convenient spot in my FW and not have a printer cable connected between the laptop and printer.
However, I cannot print to the printer when I'm connected to the internet.......I guess because to use the internet I must be connected to one network, and to use the printer I must be connected to a different network.....so I cannot connect to two networks.
I was told I can add a wireless network card and connect to a second network, so I could print while connected to the internet. But I have not tried that yet. Has anyone done that successfully? Any advice? My laptop is a fairly new HP Pavilion tx2000 model and the printer is a 1 year old one, I forget the model.
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 07:15am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Water heater
Warning: Kinda newb question. :)
So....this is gonna be my third year to winterize. I blow out the water lines and open the cold and hot spouts of the sink, outdoor shower, and indoor shower. I even open up the water source of the toilet. But, I still have some serious pressure when I empty the water heater via the anode. What am I missing? Is this the way its supposed to go?
Once the water source is removed from the RV just open a cold and hot side faucet.............that relieves the pressure when you remove the anode from the HWH.
There is a Wintering Check list at the link below that addresses that......here's a snippet:
2a. With no water source (pump off, no shore water connected), turn on each faucet and leave it on.
2b. Go outside and open the white plastic water valves for the fresh water tank, and the two "low point" valves (just forward of the right wheels on my 27RL).
3. DO THIS STEP ONLY IF THE WATER IS NOT HOT!! Remove the plug/anode at the hot
water tank (1 1/16-inch). You might get a little sprayed. Let the HWT drain for several
minutes. Replace the plug after deciding if it needs to be replaced next spring.
|
adVentureMan
|
09/18/09 07:02am |
Beginning RVing
|
|
