| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Neat product for your Class A

As long as you have the 5 gallon bucket...try one of these...:B:B
http://i39.tinypic.com/sgh509.jpg width=350
Bumper DumperWhy the bucket? :B
|
sum1
|
03/17/10 12:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Tiolet threatening to erupt - Venting problem?

In addition to the suggestions above, consider this: "Burping" can also happen when flushing with the fan on and the door and window closed. When driving, aerodynamic forces can also cause the same effect.
|
sum1
|
03/17/10 12:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Belt Chirping Sound?

Yeah, either alignment or you have an accessory about to seize. Does the tensioner lay still or does it bounce a bit?
|
sum1
|
03/17/10 12:02am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: I want to modify my tail lights to led.

If your fixtures are the reflector type as most are, be sure to use omnidirectional LED arrangements. Many of those found at auto parts stores are unidirectional and don't fill the fixture with light.
|
sum1
|
03/13/10 05:44am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: new to this

hi all, i don't even know if i belong on this forum, i don't know if i have a class A or class C.
anyway the firing order on Dodges is 18436572, mine is set up at 15726843 counter clockwise. i don't see how it's starting at all.
thanks
terryYou may be counting the cylinders wrong and only have two wires swapped (your 8 & 3)
|
sum1
|
03/11/10 02:02pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Improving gas mileage

Good stuff, Fiesta. Thanks for taking the time to share it.
|
sum1
|
03/09/10 02:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Reprogramming PCM

Be patient. There are a few on this forum that mess with them. I took the lazy route and had Brian at Harris Performance burn one for me. Great improvement!
|
sum1
|
03/08/10 10:53pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Main Propane tank painting

Krylon actually sells a paint for these tanks.
Krylon Propane Tank Paint
I can't imagine what's different about it. I just prep and paint them like any other steel.
|
sum1
|
03/08/10 10:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: air bag tricks?

Like Stim, I agressively deburred the A-hole then simply followed the directions.
|
sum1
|
03/08/10 10:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: new to this

remove the gas cap.
|
sum1
|
03/08/10 11:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Tire Psi

... within reason, the cornering power of a tire is, among other things, directly related to tire pressure. We probably don't drive fast enough to actually reach the limit while negotiating a highway curve but there is always the unexpected avoidance maneuver. When involved in an avoidance swerve, I want the most cornering power I can get.Amen! That also applies to those of us who sometimes travel winding, mountain roads.
|
sum1
|
03/08/10 11:51am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Travel from Az to OR. Want to avoid LA

If you prefer a more coastal route, you could try 10W to 210W (near Redlands) to 5N to 126W to 101N. Other than the chance of slowing a bit at Santa Barbara at the wrong time of day, it's a beautiful route.
|
sum1
|
03/01/10 12:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Packing for 1st Trip

Spend a couple of days and nights "camping" in the driveway for starters.
|
sum1
|
03/01/10 12:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: new to this

413 engine on an M400 chassis is my guess. I really miss mine. Drove like a truck but tracked straight down the road. It got me into and out of some nice remote spots with its ample ground clearance. Stopped on a dime and gave me 9 cents change. Like yours, mine also had an ashtray mounted on the intake manifold. It was one of the only things I didn't like about it.
|
sum1
|
03/01/10 12:19am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: "Oil Question"

It was actually a notice put out by GM, IIRC. I think it had something to do with the ratio of additives needed to increase it to that viscosity range diluting the oil as well as some startup lube issues. Anecdotally, my PU with a 5.7 sounded like a cement mixer when I switched to 10W-40. This result was contrary to all my instincts at the time but I went back to 10W-30 almost immediately. Now, even with 170,000 on it, I'm running 10W-30 dino.
Incidentally, my 454 MH currently has 10W-40 synthetic and I'm thinking of running 20W-50 synthetic because of the abuse I subject it to in hot weather at heavy weights.
|
sum1
|
02/27/10 01:05am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Tire Psi

I have worked as an Expert Witness in a case when the plaintiff’s attorney was able to find another “Expert” that was willing to testify that inflating the tire above the recommendation from the manufacturer contributed to the fatal accident and the person that inflated the tire should be held at fault."Experts" can be found that will say just about anything.
|
sum1
|
02/27/10 12:22am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Wheel Bearings

As Skipnchar says, the problem is that they're often overused. The original purpose of the spring loaded ones was to maintain a positive pressure inside so that plunging a warm hub into cold water at the boat ramp was less likely to suck in water from thermal contraction. I have a few sets on various trailers and think that they're unnecessary on anything but boat trailers. If you have them and your inner seals are OK, use them sparingly. JMHO
|
sum1
|
02/26/10 02:51am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Boonie Camping Potable Water Pumps

Is it possible that you need to downgrade instead of upgrade?
|
sum1
|
02/26/10 02:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Adding another water tank

As Pianotuna says, a Tee in both the fill and vent will do the job They can crossflow during both filling and consumption. The only concern is the relative height of the tanks and their distance from each other. The height factor should be obvious, but the distance may not. As an extreme, imagine a tank mounted in front linked to one mounted in the rear. When going up or down a steep hill, the crossflow may cause some water loss or overpressurization of one of the tanks. If they're close, this is not a concern. I once had such a setup with two closely mounted tanks and it was trouble free.
|
sum1
|
02/25/10 12:40pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Do Inverter Batteries Need Grounding?

Unless you have a need for a completely isolated system with a dedicated charging system, and I can't think of any reasons for that, I suggest grounding. Besides converter charging, which you mentioned, there would be alternator charging which would require grounding. Also, if there was a chassis grounded load placed on the battery, it would have to ground through the inverter. This might be OK for very light loads, but it may be problematic if a large draw was introduced. It may also help reduce RF problems. Is there some reason why you would rather not ground them?
|
sum1
|
02/25/10 12:30pm |
Tech Issues
|