psneeld
Cape May, NJ
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Joined: 04/17/2004
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I have the big BAL scissors and they are angled. I crank them down snug and even level a bit with them... but never really crank hard. I just use a little pair of plastic chocks and the camper has some movement but not a lot.
They are rated at 7000 pounds apiece...so I should be able to lift the fiver off the ground...even though the literature says no. Next time I'm gonna really crank them down and see what happens.
Laura & Scott Neeld
2004 Arctic Fox 29-5T
2001 F250SD EC PSD 4X4, Prodigy, Pullrite Superglide, Timbrens
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belairbrian
Alabama
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Joined: 04/18/2005
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The Texan wrote:I'm watching this thread with interest, as I have the same problem. I've heard that using a good wheel lock between the duals will kill about 95% of the rocking. Anyone verify that?
I can't give you a percentage but I can say when I switched to the BAL Deluxe Tire Locking Chocks I noticed a marked reduction in motion from the wedge style chocks. The only time we feel movement is when the kids are jumping around on the bunks.
TV 2003 Chevy 3500 Crew Cab Dually w Duramax/Allison
2005 Keystone Springdale 283FWBHLGL
Reese 16K Slider Hitch, Prodigy BC, Delorme GPS
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JTee
Oregon
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Joined: 04/05/2005
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The rear stabilizer jacks on my Everest are mounted at what looks like a 30 degree angle to the sides of the trailer. As far as I can tell, there is no improvement in reducing motion. I believe the manufacture mounted the jacks at an angle to prevent them from stick out past the sides of the trailer. The frame to ground distance is almost 24" which makes the jacks pretty long when folded up.
2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax
2005 Everest 293P
Trailair CenterPoint Suspension
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dnix@ra.rockwell
Columbia, SC
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Camshaft wrote:Perhaps I should have just asked if those with angled scissor jacks have much in the way of side movement. By the way...dnix...your method I'm sure does take most of the movement out...but I think you are putting things in a pretty good bind in order to do so. I admit that with the big jacks it's pretty easy to crank the back end up, however....
Camshaft I know what you are saying. However, those jacks are rated at 7,000 lbs each. The frame that mine are mounted to also has my caster wheels mounted on it and those wheels have taken far more vertical load than what I am talking about for the scissors. That frame is the frame that the leaf spring suspension is mounted to. I feel that I am simply taking some of the load off of the suspension there by reducing its ability to travel down under load. I am alos aware (before anyone lets me know it) that I am putting a little more load on the landing gear. However that same landing gear takes as much a 20% of the rig weight on rigs that are much heavier than me.
Remember that in my approach the suspension still carries the lion's share of the weight. All I have done is stiffen that suspension some and reduced its tendency to flex under a given load.
If the frame could not support its weight at both ends then it could not support its weight in the middle (where the axles are). And I am only putting a little more at one end.
I did not do this for a while until I really thought about it. It works. Now for from to back I use a clamp style chock
M. Dean Nix
ex-Silent Service
'01 F250, Crew Cab, 4x4, Lariat, LWB, V-10 & 4.3 rear-end
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jwb187
Southeast Missouri
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Joined: 01/20/2005
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I've been reading all the above posts with much interest as I have been trying to get the wiggle out of my TT for some time now. I have the BAL type scissor jacks two front and two rear on my trailer, I snug them up as much as I can and still have wiggle. I finally bought two Wayne RV stabilizers and presto, wiggle almost entirely gone. I also have rotochoks but they do nothing for the side to side movement. This is about the forth TT I have owned, never had this problem before, but this trailer is longer than the others...maybe this condition is more prevalent with longer trailers...
2005 GMC CC SLT 4x4 D/A
2008 Big Horn 3055RL 5'ver
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2005 Yamaha Rhino 660
2002 Suzuki 250 Ozark
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Camshaft
Huskerville USA
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Joined: 02/25/2003
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Length of the trailer probably does play a role. What we are all 'fighting' here obviously is movement in the tires. When I was watching our trailer move around while the wife was on the roof, I could see the sidewalls of the tires flex (side to side) and the scissor jacks (which were only 'snug') offering little resistance. dnix's approach, while aggressive, is taking the tires out of the equation more and more with every twist of the jack handle. I hope some more with angled jacks respond, but it doesn't sound as though that is the answer.
2006 Wildcat 29RLBS/1999 Dodge 2500 CTD
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FiverBob
Sarasota, Florida USA
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Joined: 08/17/2002
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I have the BAL angle jacks and I also put a "little" extra pressure on them when setting up. I always use a block under them unless on concrete. If I am on a hard surface, I leave the nose down about 1", lower the jacks, then raise the nose. If I am on a soft surface, I leave the nose down about 2", lower the jacks then level off. This method along with the kingpin stabilizer and wheel chocks does a pretty good job of making the rig stable. I think the longer the rig, the more flex in the frame. I also think my "G" rated tires, 14 steel plies with 110 pounds in them stops a lot of flexing. I am pretty solid when set up. I only use the kingpin thingy if we are staying put for a week or more - - we just don't mind a little movement if it is just the two of us.
Bob
2003 Dodge 3500 HO dually 6 speed Laramie, Jordan Controller, RDS aux tank/tool box, Bremen boards, RamAirIII, Jacobs EBrake, Air Safe 25K hitch
Carriage 36' Triple slide Fiver, Onan Gen, Sat, Prosine Inv., MORryd IS and pinbox
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tundracamper
Southeast US
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Joined: 09/30/2002
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JTee wrote:The rear stabilizer jacks on my Everest are mounted at what looks like a 30 degree angle to the sides of the trailer. ... I believe the manufacture mounted the jacks at an angle to prevent them from stick out past the sides of the trailer.
So, you are talking about "angle" in the horizontal plane. My Jayco has the same thing - the scissor jacks mounted at a slight angle. This is a different angle than the telescopign jacks. The telescoping jacks extend more from the center of the trailer frame down to the ground at an angle. The scissor jacks come straight down - although they can be reoriented by angling them. This angling does nothing for improved stability. The angling that is inherent with the telescoping kind should.
Scissor Jacks:
Telescoping Jacks (these are what I'm considering to replace my "angled" scissor jacks):
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tundracamper
Honda EU2000 Generators Forum on Yahoo! Groups
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OleDan
Lakeville, IN
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Joined: 08/28/2003
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I can't offer anything new about the problem but please tell me how you got your wife to go on the roof to cover the A/C?
2007 GMC 3500 CC DRW Long Box Duramax Allison
2004 Jayco Legacy, 3610
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lheebie
Anyplace We're Parked
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Joined: 04/13/2004
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The Texan wrote:I'm watching this thread with interest, as I have the same problem. I've heard that using a good wheel lock between the duals will kill about 95% of the rocking. Anyone verify that?
I have or "had" the same problem. I was told to put enough material under them so that the sissor part is not fully down. I put water proof boards together to make them about 8" tall. Now the movement side to side isn't near as bad. Also use wheel chocks and if I'm going to be parked more than one night I use the tri-pod on the king pin. Works great if you really screw it up tight against the pin box. Now I'm pretty stable with all that hooked up.
2004 F250 Lariat 6.0 SD LB SC Wedgewood Blue
4" catback, AFE ProGuard, SC#1704, 50g transferflo w/toolbox & Trax Command, Linex bed, Reese hitch, Brite Box, Piller Guages, Timbrens, Brakesmart,C-Betr Mirror's & 35' 05 Prairie Schooner 5er by Gulf Stream
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